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Topic: Compensators on Emmons P-P |
Jerry Kippola
From:
UP Michigan, USA
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Posted 27 Apr 2021 12:25 pm |
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| Put F# compensators on my '68 Emmons last summer, they work well, but it took some twiddling. Anyone try this? |
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Jack Stanton
From:
Somewhere in the swamps of Jersey
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Posted 27 Apr 2021 12:49 pm
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Jerry,
Been toying with the idea of trying that. Please share more about your experience. |
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Jerry Kippola
From:
UP Michigan, USA
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Posted 27 Apr 2021 2:05 pm
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Bought some 7/64 hardened steel rod, and added two bellcranks on the P1 crossrod, to lower S1 and S7. Emmons copedent. Lessened the changer return spring pressure on both fingers to keep the pedal pressdown pressure to a minimum-w/ 4 rods working off it-and used longer springs against the bellcranks, as both lowers are not much travel, and are easily lowered. I had a worn (.012"play) aluminum crossrod anchor on the back skirt so I made a new one that minimizes the crossrod play. Also routed the pushrods thru unused bellcranks for stability. Works well, maybe down the road I'll put collars and springs to lower w/P3. Tunes up easily, and really makes a difference for minor chords using P1, and for the 4 chord P1/2. It wasn't until I bought a Zum D10, w/the ability to have these, that I began thinking that it could go on the P-P.
Last edited by Jerry Kippola on 27 Apr 2021 2:43 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Marty Broussard
From:
Broussard, Louisiana, USA
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Posted 27 Apr 2021 4:19 pm
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Watching for knowledge....
_________________
RETIRED
"Technique is really the elimination of the unnecessary..it is a constant effort to avoid any personal impediment or obstacle to achieve the smooth flow of energy and intent" Yehudi Menuhin |
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Kelcey ONeil
From:
Sevierville, TN
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Posted 27 Apr 2021 5:03 pm
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| Indeed, it is a fairly straightforward process to add them, and they are very effective and easily tuned at the end plate. 1/8†rods are best since the rest of the rods are that size, and a stiffener usually isn’t necessary as it doesn’t take much to move those. |
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Jerry Kippola
From:
UP Michigan, USA
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Posted 28 Apr 2021 6:11 am
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| Actually the pull rods are 1/8". my mistake, but even so, they need to thread thru at least one bellcrank to traverse all the way to the changer. |
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Jerry Kippola
From:
UP Michigan, USA
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Posted 28 Apr 2021 6:14 am
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| Anyone have any tips on doing this, and what you've encountered- ?? |
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Kelcey ONeil
From:
Sevierville, TN
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Posted 30 Apr 2021 4:16 pm
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Jerry,
It is typically straightforward since 1 and 7 aren’t being lowered to begin with. Sometimes a “dead†rod will be ran through the 7th hole in the spring bracket for the LKL keeper spring, and will have to be accommodated some other way. Other than this, simply add cranks to the desired pedal shafts and install rods in the same way as for any other lower. A fairly long shock spring (1 1/4†is what they usually come in) is ideal to use between the crank swivel and the locking collar so minimal resistance is added to the pedal. Also using a “stiffener†at the spring bracket can help firm things up if you don’t want to add cranks just to run the rods through. Just use a 3/4†spacer and place it against the collar on the other side, and use another collar to hold it in place. This pic should explain it.
Also, full length lowering rods can be added with removing anything, thread them in from the changer end and though the spring bracket, they’ll bend slightly but will return straight if you’re gentle with them. Be sure to add the necessary locking collars, springs, etc as you thread it through or you’ll be taking back out lol. |
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Jerry Kippola
From:
UP Michigan, USA
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Posted 3 May 2021 6:34 am
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| I traded for this steel in '79, and have done a lot of work on it, bringing it to 8/8, which was a lot of work, F# compensators were perhaps the easiest to implement , I don't see that modification in your pic--? |
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Larry Behm
From:
Mt Angel, Or 97362
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Posted 6 May 2021 3:23 pm
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I did this just today after playing PP’s for 35 years. Boy you should hear me now.
_________________
'70 D10 Black fatback Emmons PP, Hilton VP, BJS bars, Boss GE-7 for Dobro effect, Zoom MS50G, Flamma Reverb, Planet Wave cables, Quilter 202 Toneblocks, Telonics 15” speakers.
Phone: 971-219-8533 |
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Ian Rae
From:
Redditch, England
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Posted 6 May 2021 3:35 pm
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I have only modern guitars where F# compensators are just a couple extra pulls, but I wouldn't be without them.
Full marks to you PP guys for jumping all the hoops! 
_________________
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs |
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Jerry Erickson
From:
Atlanta,IL 61723
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Posted 8 May 2021 9:45 pm
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| Jimmie Crawford had those compensators on his guitar back in the 80's. He split them up, so that string 1 worked with the A pedal and string 7 worked with the B pedal. It might be good to have a compensator on string 1 with the C pedal as well. |
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Ian Rae
From:
Redditch, England
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Posted 9 May 2021 1:01 am
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To be completely logical, both 1 and 7 should be connected to all three pedals! In practice I find that A and C lowering 7 is enough.
_________________
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs |
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