Emmons Fretboard

Dave Meis · From: Olympic Peninsula, Washington, USA

I've had good success with overlaying a new fretboard over the old with just 2 pieces of double back tape... one at each end. Nothing is trying to pull it off. Let's me use it a while to see if I like it. Easy to reverse.

Kelcey ONeil · From: Sevierville, TN

Would a new one just like the original do the trick?

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

Tom Bradshaw · From: Walnut Creek, California, USA

Many of the early pedal steel builders started out with those beautiful "chrome" fretboards, but owners who played professionally complained about stage lights reflecting off of them, leading to "disappearing" fret lines if those lights happened to reflect in their eyes. Many builders then changed to a matte finished and the complaints ended. I'm wondering if this issue is cropping up now, because of the pandemic, with fewer steel players performing under stage lights, and we've forgotten about that hazard. Regardless, if such fretboards are desired in the pretty chrome, someone will provide them, if they can make a profit. But, the metal boards will be expensive.

I mentioned this topic to my daughter who has worked with all kinds of paint applications from concrete floors to exotic surfaces. In the current discussion of adding a glossy finish to a vinyl fretboard, she had the following observations and suggestions:

"Typical spray paints and clear coats contain solvents that attack plastic, and I believe thatâ€™s what caused the appearance of â€˜orange peelâ€™ mentioned in this topic. Acetone, lacquer thinner and toluene are common solvents that will do this to about all plastics, including vinyl, as well as decals and most painted surfaces.

"One alternative to try is clear shellac, its carrier is denatured alcohol, which is less likely to damage plastic, and shellac sticks to most anything. You can buy it as a spray or in as as paint-on in a can. Most shellacs can be polished with a soft cloth.

A second alternative is a clear water-based acrylic. They are available in clear gloss like 'Pledge Floor Finish.' This would be very easy to apply. If you ever wanted to remove it you could do so with a strong degreaser like straight 'Simple Green.â€™

A third alternative would be a clear topcoat meant for plastic models or crafts and can be purchased at hobby stores. I donâ€™t know which ones would work; youâ€™d have to research some."

I trust that one of her solutions will result in the return of "gleams" in the eyes of us steelers! ...Tom

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

Hi Tom. As I think I expressed in our emails and here too, with the board already topcoated for durability, I don't believe any further treatment will have any effect on the colors -- the black and the atoms -- that it otherwise might if they were not sealed. So any treatment would make the whole thing more light-reflective but would not not have any effect on my main thing -- the way the black sits back instead of having presence & depth. This is consistent with my many years of printing. And the boards MUST have the top coat. That black would scuff like mad before the boards ever found their way onto a guitar, without the protection of a coat. Been there way too much, done that, in my art printing world.
Regarding the gloss and the chrome lines and the spotlight glare -- I'll bet there are road warriors who are laughing at me right now. I thank Bill Terry for providing me with a bit of cover.

I've said it a few times and I'll say it again, Tom -- Thank you! For making these nice 12 string boards and for taking time to work with me on this thing. I appreciate it a lot!

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

Here's a little bit of perspective of this whole discussion. While the repro fretboard's black is less deep than the original, here it is in comparison with a 2019 Williams board. The photo reduces the difference compared with how I perceive it in person with my eyes but angle & light are always in play. Bottom line -- the Bradshaw Emmons is deeper than the Williams. So everything is relative.
And fwiw, I am not at all obsessing. I'm working on the guitar and I'm playing it and all's well.

Mike DiAlesandro · From: Kent, Ohio

Hey Jon,

I left the original fretboard on when I was selling your Emmons, because I felt the new owner would have an opinion on what he prefers, old and original or new...

I have some real metal fretboards I got from Terry Roller (Jerry's daughter) but they are all 10 string. They look pretty authentic. I know, doesn't help with the 12 strings.

I think long story short, you are better off with leaving the originals on, and if you want, use some light grade double sided tape only on the ends to check out how you like the look. I did this with a 67 bolt-on I had, because in the lighting in my bands practice space, the metal frets would play tricks on my eyes, disappearing at certain angles.

Anyway, when I took the top board off, all was good, and the tape didn't peel any of the originals paint off... FWIW

Glad you are enjoying your new project.

John Drury · From: Gallatin, Tn USA

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

@ Mike -- thanks for checking in and for that info on the old board surviving the tape. I am REALLY digging working on this. I am learning a ton and I am slowly circling around toward making this MY guitar.

@ John -- excellent. I didn't know it was possible. I am definitely leaning toward leaving it in place but if something should change my mind, I'll remember to stock up on patience and Stella.

Mike Bourque · From: Nashville TN

i wouldn't change them it looks amazing the way it is and its a legit vintage emmons that way
_________________
Emmons Wraparounds and cut tails, Zum D10, Blantons , Fulawkas , Franklin D10, Sho Bud Permanents and Fingertips,Jacksons and Telecasters

Peter Johannisse · From: Spijkenisse, The Netherlands

looks like there's a scale difference....

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

George Kimery · From: Limestone, TN, USA

I have had a pair of Tom Bradshaw's self stick vinyl fretboards laying around for several months. Because of the pandemic and no gigs in 14 months, I've never gotten around to installing them, but I'm now ready to rock.

The fretboards on my 74 Emmons are in good condition, but they're gloss black. The guitar is flat black formica. The fret boards would look a lot better if they were also a flat finish. Has anybody just peeled the backing off of the Bradshaw boards and stuck them down over the top of existing metal fretboards? I'm wondering if the self stick 3M adhesive and the paint on the metal fretboards could cause a reaction over time. Also, has anybody tried spraying Krylon flat clear paint on top of an Emmons metal fretboard?

Here are my options:

1. Don't do anything.
2. Stick the new boards down on top of the old ones.
3. Spray the old boards with a matt clear spray paint.

I am not going to remove the old boards and probably destroy them in the process. The only problem with them is they are a gloss finish.

Any advice, suggestions, or thoughts will be much appreciated.

George

Erv Niehaus · From: Litchfield, MN, USA

I would just stick the new ones on top of the old ones with a couple strips of double backed tape.
I've done this lots of times. Very Happy

Erv

George Kimery · From: Limestone, TN, USA

Erv, the back of the Bradshaw fretboards are 3M peel and stick.
I have a roll of good double stick carpet tape. Are you saying use that instead of the backing that's already on the boards, or are you saying you've used the double stick tape in the past to attach a metal board that was not self stick to the existing board.

Erv Niehaus · From: Litchfield, MN, USA

I'm afraid if you use that 3M tape, you'll never be able to get that fretboard off again.
And I wouldn't use carpet tape either.
Just put some double back tape on top of the 3M stuff and stick it down.
You've got nothing to lose, you can always take it off. Very Happy

Erv

Pete Burak · From: Portland, OR USA

I use LocTite brand Fun-Tack (Mounting Putty) to overlay Fretboards and hold them in place.
It is that stuff you use to stick posters to the wall instead of tacks. It comes in a shape like a stick of gum.
I make a tiny ball smaller than a pea, and put one in each corner, and press it down.
It's flexible so you make make fine adjustments (get the Harmonic lined up with the fret).
The fretboard looks like it is mounted but it can come right off, and that stuff cleans up real easy when needed.
If I am putting the Steel in a case for travel I wedge a piece of foam between the strings and fretbord, but beyond that, it stays in place real well for around the house and local travel.
https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/fix/general-purpose/loctite_fun-tak_mountingputty.html

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