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Topic: Fender 800 cable repair |
Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 29 Sep 2021 4:27 pm |
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Chriswhat did I do to piss you off? Where are you getting the idea that I'm a "my way or the highway" guy? Far from it. Yes, I wrote a couple guides for maintenance and soldering to help people - not force procedures on them. And you're the only one to insult me for doing it - what a classy guy. And what's the crap about a "vanity internet site?"
Somebody must have stepped on your foot today - and it wasn't me. All I did was ask for assistance and explain the problems I was having.
I appreciate and am thankful for advice, but not just "you're doing it wrong" without helpful details - and "too much heat" doesn't provide how much to use or how to apply the RIGHT amount. It's just "you're wrong" and not helpful.
I'm frustrated, yes, because I'm admittedly having trouble "getting it" - and I'm simply not sure what I'm missing in the process. I described the results I was getting because I thought they might trigger some advice - not your BS...
I was actually thankful for information. But not "your way won't work" without specifics.
And two posts in a row with nothing but personal attacks? Dude, I have NO idea what I did to piss you off, but you are WAY outside the lines.[/i]
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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K Maul
From:
Hadley, NY/Hobe Sound, FL
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Posted 29 Sep 2021 5:33 pm
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Jeez….how did this go so far off course? Seems like a major misunderstanding.
_________________
Kevin Maul: Airline, Beard, Clinesmith, Decophonic, Evans, Excel, Fender, Fluger, Gibson, Hilton, Ibanez, Justice, K+K, Live Strings, MOYO, National, Oahu, Peterson, Quilter, Rickenbacher, Sho~Bud, Supro, TC, Ultimate, VHT, Williams, X-otic, Yamaha, ZKing. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 29 Sep 2021 7:06 pm
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Kevin - I absolutely agree with you. I don't get it.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 9 Oct 2021 3:39 pm
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I glass-bead the last inch of the cable in my benchtop sandblaster. Find a machine shop or heat-treater in your area. Some plating shops also have these. I then use plumbers' solder and soldering paste heating it with a hand-held MAPP gas torch just as if you were sweating a pair of copper pipes and elbows together. I haven't had one come loose on me yet. Plumbers' solder is much tougher than electrical solder.
PRR |
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David Ball
From:
North Carolina High Country
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Posted 9 Oct 2021 3:53 pm
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| Paul Redmond wrote: |
I glass-bead the last inch of the cable in my benchtop sandblaster. Find a machine shop or heat-treater in your area. Some plating shops also have these. I then use plumbers' solder and soldering paste heating it with a hand-held MAPP gas torch just as if you were sweating a pair of copper pipes and elbows together. I haven't had one come loose on me yet. Plumbers' solder is much tougher than electrical solder.
PRR |
I've done the same with at least so far successful results. I don't have a benchtop sandblaster, so i just sand the ends with coarse sandpaper until everything is shiny. I tin the shiny cable surface, and then solder it into the socket. Probably not as ideal as some of the other suggestions have been, but they've held. And yeah, that's a 1000 in my Avatar.
Dave |
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Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 9 Oct 2021 5:22 pm
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The reason I use glass bead is that the bead I have is as fine as flour and gets into the cable strands where the sandpaper can't reach. I tried using emery paper on one and the thing came loose on me. So I fired up the blaster. The paste flux must also be allowed to do its thing which is why I use the MAPP gas rather than the regular gas....the MAPP gas burns a little bit hotter. It's also a good idea to dip the cable end in ketone or lacquer thinner before soldering just in case some changer lube crept into the cable end. IMO cable-drive Fender's are good for at least 100 years!!! Amazing guitars all these years later with the most accurate changer system ever invented.
PRR |
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Chris Lucker
From:
Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 10 Oct 2021 3:14 am
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Isn’t it just easier to forgo all these heroic steps of glass beading contraptions and sanding and dipping and what all else has been prescribed, and simply use a few cents worth of new stainless cable with a six dollar torch and stainless flux and solder?
I must be missing something, and I would appreciate knowing where I am wrong. I have close to forty cable guitars and, by gosh, you guys are making me wring my hands because I am not “doing it right.â€
_________________
Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars. |
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Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 10 Oct 2021 11:50 am
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To each his own.
PRR |
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Paul Strojan
From:
California, USA
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Posted 1 Jan 2022 12:41 pm
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| I discovered crimp sleeves for wire rope work much better than trying to solder. The key is to use a proper compression tool with round jaws to properly apply the crimps. |
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