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Topic: A&B cabinet drop and approach |
Alex Jonsson
From:
Denmark
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Posted 1 Sep 2020 12:39 pm |
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Hi folks,
I'm rather new at the steel and have started to wonder about the A&B-pedals reg. intonation and the so-called 'cabinet drop'. Would you - if possible - always press down both pedals at once instead of each one individually? So that you always have both pedals down while tuning or playing just one of them (unless the other HAS to be up because you're playing that note). Is this a thing or is it just in my head? I've been thinking that I should avoid pressing other pedals down except for the one affect the string I'm playing, but now I'm wondering if that's incorrect.
Best,
Alex |
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Tucker Jackson
From:
Portland, Oregon, USA
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Posted 1 Sep 2020 1:00 pm
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Hi, Alex.
Standard procedure is to hold down both A and B pedals when checking the tuning of the A pedal. And the same when checking the B pedal. This is true whether you tune the string by ear, tune using a chart, or use a 'sweetened' temperment programmed into an electronic tuner like a Peterson.
When checking the C pedal, you should hold down both B and C at the same time.
So, you tune to your target note with two pedals down so that the desired pitch will actually still be on target when using both pedals together. Why prioritize using both pedals? Using them in pairs is obviously super common, and it invokes the maxiumum cabinet drop that your guitar may (or may not) have. So you tune assuming that situation. And when you use those pedals by themselves, they may not be exactly at the target pitch since there may be less cabinet drop in effect, but they will be so close that you won't care. |
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Ian Rae
From:
Redditch, England
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Posted 1 Sep 2020 1:56 pm
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As Tucker suggests, if you tune with both pedals down, then the individual notes may be slightly sharp, but the ear is much more tolerant of sharpness than flatness.
And you'll be instinctively correcting the pitch with your bar anyway, won't you? 
_________________
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs |
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Alex Jonsson
From:
Denmark
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Posted 2 Sep 2020 2:36 am
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Thanks for your replies. Gotta in to some new habits then. I guess this means, that if you'd ie play a major scale up, on note at a time, you'd always use both pedals to bend, although you only really play one of the notes? I've been practicing to be able to separate those two pedals when doing so...  |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 2 Sep 2020 4:20 am
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| Alex Jonsson wrote: |
| ...I guess this means, that if you'd ie play a major scale up, on note at a time, you'd always use both pedals to bend, although you only really play one of the notes? I've been practicing to be able to separate those two pedals when doing so... |
No, only activate pedals that you're actually using when you're playing! And keep in mind that on most steels, cabinet drop may be significant when you're staring at the tuner. But if you use your ears, it's really far less significant. Tuning, like playing, is a learned skill, and the better you become as a player, the more manageable your "tuning problems" will be.
I tune one string with the tuner, and then tune all the rest by ear. This helps me to keep my ears sharp - if it sounds good, it is good. NEVER rely 100% on the tuner, it can become a terrible crutch. |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 2 Sep 2020 4:28 am
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I played Pedal Steel for 20 years before I heard the term "cabinet drop" and what it referred to. My steel had it but was never an issue. Even after I learned what it was it never bothered my playing.
_________________
GFI Ultra Keyless S-10 with pad (Black of course) TB202 amp, Hilton VP, Steelers Choice sidekick seat, SIT Strings
Cakewalk by Bandlab and Studio One V4.6 pro DAWs, MOTU Ultralite MK5 recording interface unit |
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Alex Jonsson
From:
Denmark
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Posted 2 Sep 2020 4:35 am
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Thanks for your replies  |
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Andrew Frost
From:
Toronto, Ontario
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Posted 5 Sep 2020 9:24 pm
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Generally tune with the chord positions fully engaged.
For example, tune your F raises as part of the A+F C# chord and so on.
But watch out for cabinet rise too. When you tune the E lowers, strings 4 & 8, those D# notes need to be in tune with the open B/B6 chord. The root note of that chord (strings 5&10) will actually go UP a few cents when the Es are lowered so you need to factor that in.
When you're playing, you generally only use the pedal/lever you need for a given note.
But sometimes AB down is useful in playing open strings.
The way I tune, the open E strings are straight up when AB are down. Pedals up, they are about 4 or 5 cents sharp. So if I want a straight up open E sound that's how i get it. |
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Alex Jonsson
From:
Denmark
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Posted 6 Sep 2020 10:52 am
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| Just wondering, as I'm using the Jeff Newman tuning chart. Does that make a difference? I mean, is it already counting in the cabinet drop or should I still tune with A+B, B+C, A+F together? |
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Tucker Jackson
From:
Portland, Oregon, USA
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Posted 6 Sep 2020 11:08 am
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| Yes, you will still tune with the pedals and knee levers engaged. The numbers on the Newman chart were created assuming that you would do this. |
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Andrew Frost
From:
Toronto, Ontario
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Posted 6 Sep 2020 12:00 pm
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Given the nature of this peculiar instrument we play, it is worthwhile, in my humble opinion, to aquire a basic understanding of how Just Intonation and pure tuning systems work.
You don't have to adhere to it religiously but a functional grasp of it will only deepen your understanding of the instrument and music in general.
You will also be less dependant on the chart or presets in the tuner. Best of luck on your journey. |
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