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Author Topic:  My build in progress
JB Bobbitt


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 23 Jul 2020 7:18 pm    
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My first build, I'm about to start nailing the hardware to the plank.

This build is a prototype, and least the plank/body. (The picture is of poplar, aka "blandwood"; I'll practice on it and us a good board later). The hardware will all transfer over to the good board. And I'll use a custom bridge as soon as the ziricote blanks come in.

I have a couple quick question thoughs: For practical reasons, a 1/4-inch string height off the fret board works best (7/16 inch off base at the string-through PUP). It's a 25-inch scale, will load 0.013 - 0.055. Is that string height workable? I can raise with shims if needed.

Also, are there restrictions or preferences on where I place the pots? i.e.: too close to PUP, too far away?

As always, thanks a heap,
-jbb
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Gary S. Lynch

 

From:
Maryland, USA
Post  Posted 25 Jul 2020 2:51 am    
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JB,
Not sure if the images below will help.
Here you go.. These are through the P/U height for a Supro
and Valco Oahu in mm's.
String gauge is also a consideration. The upper bass on this is a.058 which I like for D tuning. Looks like the string is about 10mm H and the bridge 8-9mm. Pickup height will matter also.
Looks like your using a telecaster type bridge which you said you plan on raising. These are great for adjusting intonation on a tele, but because your not limited by the raised fret intonation like a guitar, is there a reason you not using a fixed lap steel bridge?
Hope this helps.
Gary






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Bill Groner


From:
QUAKERTOWN, PA
Post  Posted 25 Jul 2020 4:01 am    
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This is from Lollar site.

This is an exact reproduction of the Supro®/Oahu/Valco "string through" pickup as used on the Fender Coodercaster. This is a humbucking pickup that sounds like a single-coil, the tone is clear and clean despite its unusually high output. This is partly achieved by the steel plate over the strings that spreads the magnetic field to surround the strings. This increases the pickup's sensitivity and reduces magnetic pull on the strings giving you increased sustain. Plus, it's chrome plated so it looks as good as it sounds.

Chrome plated with Alnico 5 magnets and dual split-coil humbucking construction with adjustable poles. You can mount this pickup on many guitars, but unlike the original, our pickup is not built as part of the bridge and tailpiece. Installation requires a small rout (1/8" deep) or can be surface mounted on top of a pickguard. We also have shims available for guitars with tall bridges.

Please note that a string height of less than 7/16" off the guitar body requires in-setting the pickup into the guitar. String height greater than 7/16" requires shimming. The foot print is 2 x 3 5/8", and pole spacing is 2.175" center-to-center of the two outside poles. Accommodation for narrower spacing is achieved by angling the pickup.

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JB Bobbitt


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 25 Jul 2020 7:07 am    
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Thanks all.

I'm concerned about the string height over the fret board; I've got the string height through the PUP worked out.

The pictured bridge is just a place holder, for now. I had planned to use it on this prototype until I could fashion the custom plate and bridge. I finally found the ziricote (same wood as pictured fret board) blanks for the bridge plate, so I'll wait and use a straight round or flat bar.

I'll give a shout out here to Georgeboards. I bought the nut from him and I like it a lot.

-jbb
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Jerry Wagner


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 25 Jul 2020 8:26 am    
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Hi JB,
I'm a beginning builder too. For what it's worth, here's a link to my SGF post from early April. My nut & bridge are both made with 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/8" brass angle stock drilled for 2 countersink screws. I hide the "foot" of the nut in a pocket under the fret board, and laser cut acrylic trim to cover the bridge foot. the fret board is 1/8" laser-cut acrylic. The string height is 1/4" above the fret board at the nut and 1/2" above the top of the guitar at the bridge. I like the Steinberger tuners and EMG-707TWX-R active pickup better than any I've ever played. The PU needs a cut-out, but that provides easy height adjustment. I'm working on an 8-string prototype now.

https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=356387&highlight=ohia+lehua+special


Last edited by Jerry Wagner on 25 Jul 2020 9:43 am; edited 1 time in total
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Paul McEvoy

 

From:
Baltimore, USA
Post  Posted 25 Jul 2020 9:12 am    
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I bet you'll end up liking the prototype and then making a nicer one. Maybe you should get some cheaper components to put on it so that you don't have to pull it apart. Poplar is a legit wood for bodies, ugly but if you paint it...

I was wondering what program you used to draw the lines and would you recommend it? Came out nice.

Sure you know this, but mcmaster carr is an excellent place to get angle iron of all sorts. I really like the design on the Melbert lap steel bridges and nuts, I think he will see you one if you want. He is a dream to work with.
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JB Bobbitt


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 25 Jul 2020 9:47 am    
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Paul McEvoy wrote:
I bet you'll end up liking the prototype and then making a nicer one."


I was wondering what program you used to draw the lines and would you recommend it? Came out nice.



I'm an accomplished woodworker and have many, many set-up boards that made a fine project in the end. Poplar is just so fun to work, so "prototype" may mean "sacrificial first attempt that might work". I will also use it to test PUP placement and electronics layout. And I haven't chosen the body shape yet, it'll be close to the plan.

I purchased the plan from "Crystal Forrest" (Terry Majewski?):

http://crystalforestmandolins.com/lapsteelplans.html

The plan is a .pdf file that I printed at the FedEx Store. Good product.

I drew the detail of the PUP and bridge using "Visio". It's old program made for org charts and business graphics but has a simple dawing interface that works for me.

Thanks for feedback.
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Gary S. Lynch

 

From:
Maryland, USA
Post  Posted 26 Jul 2020 6:18 am    
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JB,
If it works out..here’s an idea for a future build.
Multibender bridges are available for about $250.
You would need a roller nut, but that assembly would be a fraction of the cost of a
Duesenberg. A fun way to get A and B pedal sounds without the set up and weight of a PSG. Good luck with your build!
Gary
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JB Bobbitt


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 26 Jul 2020 6:49 am    
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Jerry Wagner wrote:


The string height is 1/4" above the fret board at the nut and 1/2" above the top of the guitar at the bridge.

I like the Steinberger tuners


Thanks, I was worried that the 1/4" height over the fret board might be a problem. Mine will have real frets (0.039" height). I may raise height 1/16-3/32 inch, but have to shim the nut.

I like the Steinberger tuners, but went with the Riot Gear version. Those have a hole through the post that provides an additional lock-point on the unwound strings that eliminates the slippage you suffer. Also, the Riot Gear tuners have nothing sticking up above the string hole on the headstock.

-jbb
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JB Bobbitt


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 29 Jul 2020 1:09 pm    
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Progress. Ziricote knife-handle blank for bridge, matches fretboard. Will use metal rod for saddle.
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JB Bobbitt


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 30 Jul 2020 12:06 pm    
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Gary S. Lynch wrote:
JB,
Not sure if the images below will help.
Here you go.. These are through the P/U height for a Supro
and Valco Oahu in mm's.

Gary


Thank you Sir, the pics help a lot. It looks to me that the strings are higher than mid-level, see attached drawing. If that's the way it is, that's the way I'll make it.


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