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Post new topic Ugly Profex battery damage
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Author Topic:  Ugly Profex battery damage
Ken Fox


From:
Nashville GA USA
Post  Posted 8 Apr 2020 1:29 pm    
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Got these photos from someone wanting me to repair the Profex. I hated to tell him it was beyond hope




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Larry Dering

 

From:
Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 8 Apr 2020 3:44 pm    
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Ouch, bad one.
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Ian Rae


From:
Redditch, England
Post  Posted 9 Apr 2020 1:26 am    
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I don't know whether this unit has an external DC option, but wherever there is one I always use it.

Apart from the leakage issue, if a battery is going to die it will generally do so while you're playing! Smile
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 9 Apr 2020 4:06 am    
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Ian Rae wrote:
I don't know whether this unit has an external DC option, but wherever there is one I always use it.

Apart from the leakage issue, if a battery is going to die it will generally do so while you're playing! Smile


The Profex I had plugged into in AC outlet. I believe the battery is like the battery in a computer. It's there to keep the memory intact.
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Michael Brebes

 

From:
Northridge CA
Post  Posted 9 Apr 2020 8:31 am    
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Looking at the pictures, it is repairable but will cost a lot of bench time to jumper and remove all the bad traces. In my experience it's better to remove the old trace when it's damaged that bad.
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Michael Brebes
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Ken Fox


From:
Nashville GA USA
Post  Posted 9 Apr 2020 9:40 am    
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I did two with similar damage this week. Over 4 hours bench time on each. At shop rates I could not repair one like this He is better off to find a nice used one.
The memory batteries all
Leak sooner or later in these. This is typical of the ones I have seen with batteries left in too long
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Michael Brebes

 

From:
Northridge CA
Post  Posted 10 Apr 2020 8:20 am    
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For that much damage, 4 hours sounds about right. Justification of tech time depends on whether used ones are available.
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Michael Brebes
Instrument/amp/ pickup repair
MSA D10 Classic/Rickenbacher B6/
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Ken Fox


From:
Nashville GA USA
Post  Posted 10 Apr 2020 8:43 am    
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The hardest part to repair are traces that are almost hair like thin. These are easily eaten away and require some very delicate work to trace out and get jumpers in place to repair.
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Michael Brebes

 

From:
Northridge CA
Post  Posted 11 Apr 2020 9:17 am    
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I use kynar wire for those little traces. That's what we used back at Northrop Electronics Division for open traces on multi-layer boards.
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Michael Brebes
Instrument/amp/ pickup repair
MSA D10 Classic/Rickenbacher B6/
Dickerson MOTS/Dobro D32 Hawaiian/
Goldtone Paul Beard Reso

Mesa Boogie Studio Pre/Hafler 3000
RP1/MPX100
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Ken Fox


From:
Nashville GA USA
Post  Posted 11 Apr 2020 9:51 am    
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That’s exactly what I use. Just ordered a new roll

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Michael Brebes

 

From:
Northridge CA
Post  Posted 12 Apr 2020 11:52 am    
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Yep, that's the only stuff to use for those skinny traces. I had a board where the power rail shorted to ground on the board, burning a big hole in the board that went into an IC's pads. Had to cut away all the burnt board, install a socket for half the missing pads, then start stringing lots of kynar wire to get everything hooked back up and operational.
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Michael Brebes
Instrument/amp/ pickup repair
MSA D10 Classic/Rickenbacher B6/
Dickerson MOTS/Dobro D32 Hawaiian/
Goldtone Paul Beard Reso

Mesa Boogie Studio Pre/Hafler 3000
RP1/MPX100
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