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Author Topic:  String deflection
JB Bobbitt


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 3 Mar 2020 8:02 pm    
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Hi all, sorry, I'm a beginner.

What is the maximum amount of string deflection you inflict with a slide?

On 1 string? 2 strings? Full bar?
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Jeff Highland

 

From:
New South Wales, Australia
Post  Posted 3 Mar 2020 10:14 pm    
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only enough to stop it buzzing
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Mark Mansueto


From:
Michigan, USA
Post  Posted 4 Mar 2020 7:59 am    
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Depends. There is less resistance in the middle of the neck as opposed to pressing near the nut or bridge. Single notes with emotion in the middle of the neck I might get over 1/8". Full bar much less. This was an eyeball measurement.
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Stephen Cowell


From:
Round Rock, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 4 Mar 2020 7:59 am    
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Strive for 'none'... a) your strings need to be tight enough (e.g. heavy enough gauge) so that they don't go out of tune when you have normal pressure, leading to b) only apply enough pressure to get a good sound.

You should make a practice of muting the strings behind the bar since that contributes to good tone... at some places on the neck it matters less, but at the nodal points (5th, 7th, 12th fret etc) the tone really suffers if you don't mute behind the bar. And you don't have to press as hard when you mute behind the bar.
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Lloyd Graves

 

From:
New York, USA
Post  Posted 4 Mar 2020 10:53 am    
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If I can add a tangential question, I find the first fret nearly impossible to get a clean sound from because there isn't room for the muting fingers to touch the strings so much. I get some chattering sounds.

Any tips for that?
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Jim Sliff


From:
Lawndale California, USA
Post  Posted 4 Mar 2020 4:16 pm    
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Your guitar is probably set up with the nut and saddle slots either at equal or uneven depth. That's how most come from the factory.

The slots *should* be cut so the *tops* of the strings are even and a bar will lightly touch every string with no pressure at all. It's less tiring, the guitar will play in tune bnecause some strings are not being pressed sharp, and chatter is eliminated.

You still want muting or "drag" fingers behind the bar, but only to mute during bar lifts.

The actual deflection needed is barely measurable and varies by the tension on each string. But with a properly set up guitar it's not something you even have to think about.

The strings you cover depend on the ones you're picking - sort of - working from the low strings up. But if picking two strings like the high G and B you cover from the low-G up - otherwise you have to press the B sharp to keep the bar off the low D.

You angle the bar during hammer-ions and pulloffs, but ideally as little as possible to avoid excessive motion. Jerry Douglas plays them with his bar nearly dead flat, using the string ring created by "lifts" for fast pulloffs.

Lay your bar on the strings and keep it only from rolling; then lightly pck each one. Undoubtedly some will buzz; some might sound clear at the bar position; and some might sound open, maybe with a little buzz. If so it needs a good setup - which will probably imnprove tone and volume, and the rim will be checked for levelness;, the cone set in with no rattles; the spider leveled and set for contact evenly on the con points; and the center screw tension set properly (no more than 1/4 - 1/2 turn past "snug).

And depending on the guitar you may want to invest in an upgraded cone and high quality saddles, plus a bone nut if yours is plastic.

Hope that helps.
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Stephen Cowell


From:
Round Rock, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 4 Mar 2020 6:42 pm    
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Muting behind the bar at the first fret is not necessary... and if your strings are not even across at the nut you will have to press harder... maybe even *real* hard. Experiment... I sometimes put a small piece of paper under the string at the nut if it's low... fold it once or twice to get the right height. Once you decide on a tuning and the gauges you can get the nut set up properly by a pro... that makes a big difference down low.
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