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Post new topic Marlen D10
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Author Topic:  Marlen D10
Bobby Jenkins

 

From:
Indiana
Post  Posted 5 Feb 2020 9:13 pm    
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I have a 1968 Marlen D10. I’ve owned it for a year and decided it’s time to get serious in playing it.. I’m and banjo player and totally new to the steel but have always loved the sound of one! I have read all the forums I can find explaining the Marlens pull/release changer. I’m starting to get an understanding of the guitars mechanics but would be happy to hear anyone’s input based on the pictures.. anyone out there servicing these guitars? Would like to have it possibly setup just to insure I have something decent to start with.. for the record I don’t plan on playing anything but 50s-60s-early 70s traditional country on this thing. So I’m not thinking I need to add knees or anything but I’m open to suggestions. Thanks!







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richard burton


From:
Britain
Post  Posted 5 Feb 2020 10:19 pm    
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It's very similar to my 1966 Marlen, and the E9 neck looks ok to me.

I don't know anything about C6, so I don't know if it's set correctly or not

It might be a good idea not to mess with it until you have got more advice off forum members (including me)
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Bobby Jenkins

 

From:
Indiana
Post  Posted 6 Feb 2020 6:17 am    
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Ya I don’t want to just jump into it.. like I said I understand the tuning sequence now as far as tuning the highest note at the key head and the lowest note at the changer.. I have to tune the idle strings under the guitar since there’s no window.. my main concerns is the wiring! It’s pretty rough! The A pedal sticks a little so I have to slip my foot under the pedal to get the pitch to drop back to where it should be. And the copedent of the knees seem wrong to me or maybe just not the standard today. At this point I’m not really even using the knees but would like to know they are set up right to be used.. I can confirm tonight and share with the forum what strings the knees are hooked to and how they lower/raise the pitch.

Any thoughts on how to get the A pedal to return to pitch would be great..
Lastly is there a special type wire needed to rewire the guitar? It has really small gauge wire that is shielded in a metal braid. I was planning on just using cloth wrapped electric guitar wiring unless that’s a No No??

Again I’m new at this so I apologize in advance for any newbie questions or asking something that’s already been covered!
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Steven Hudson


From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 6 Feb 2020 7:25 am    
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Nice looking 50 year old guitar. Like the bedazzled badge. Always love that inlay on those guitars. Beautiful wood. Good luck learning to play.
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Erik Alderink


From:
Ann Arbor Michigan, USA
Post  Posted 6 Feb 2020 1:31 pm    
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Standard shielded guitar wire is fine. For the sticking pedal, is it the pedal itself binding in the pedal rack? The cross shaft sticking in the cabinet? Are the rods bent, binding, or interfering with other pulls? Or the fingers in the changer sticking? The underside looks OK, but in need of a cleaning and lube.

I know that playing it is probably more fun and interesting, but a nice day of maintenance can go a long way for playability and personal understanding of the instrument. If you’re not comfortable, confident, or capable then it’s probably best to let someone else do it. Marlens are not rocket science, but there are lots of parts and they’re all pretty important.
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Brett Lanier

 

From:
Vermont
Post  Posted 6 Feb 2020 4:17 pm    
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You only need to tune idle strings under the guitar if the string is being raised and lowered. Otherwise (if a string is only raised) you can tune the idle note with the screw behind the changer. [/b]

You’re lucky with the mechanics that are on there. The spring loaded release rods work great, and take up a lot less space than swivels, or that rack thing that sho bud did on Permanents.
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Bobby Jenkins

 

From:
Indiana
Post  Posted 6 Feb 2020 4:43 pm    
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Richard, does yours have any knees and if so what is their function?

Steven Thanks! I think its a beautiful guitar also!

Erik, I completely agree on keeping them clean and in order. I don't have any bent rods for the most part, maybe some with a slight curve to them but nothing seems to bind. I lubed some of the parts I thought could have been the problem and so far its working like it should now. I haven't rewired it but i did get all the switches working right tonight. some of the wires were broke so I soldered back to the poles. Now the selector switch and tone switch work how they should.

Brett, You are right. I have been doing what you said, I just worded it wrong. but thanks for clarifying that!

This is my first steel and I took a shot in the dark but so far I'm very happy with it and appreciate all your guys help. I'm not a good picker yet but i can already tell this thing is gonna have TONE!
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