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Post new topic 6th string whole tone lower
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Author Topic:  6th string whole tone lower
Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 7 Jan 2020 6:28 am    
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Jack Stoner wrote:
This thread and Paul and Travis' uses got me thinking last night on a job. I lower the 6th string a full tone and split with the B pedal. My E's lower knee was the most used knee lever but the knee lowering the 6th string was the second most that I used. I defer to the Pro's but for me I would be lost without that change. (And at age 82 I see no reason to change).


The sixth string lower is my 3rd most used lever, behind the E lowers and raises. I will never get rid of it. After reading this thread, I think I am going to move the 1st & 2nd string changes off that lever to my 2nd LKL. And possibly raise string 7 to G# on the same lever. I have B's to Bb on the lever now that I only hit maybe once a gig, and only because I feel guilty of having it and never using it.
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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting.
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Andy Henriksen

 

From:
Michigan, USA
Post  Posted 7 Jan 2020 6:33 am    
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Thank you Charlie, Bill, and Bill (and everyone really)! I'm going to attempt the change (as soon as I get adequate time to not have to rush the job...which might be a few days). And your guidance will definitely help.

This forum, once again, has proven to be an amazing resource! In just a few posts, I got a theory lesson, a history lesson, and some confidence-boosting mechanical advice. Cool
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Jimmy Lewis

 

From:
Harrisonburg, Louisiana, USA
Post  Posted 8 Jan 2020 12:01 am    
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Mr. Franklin you have explained this to perfection. My good friend thelate Wayne Cox explained this to me 30 years ago and it leaves the tuning wide open for a lot more houses.

I k.now this doesn't pertain to this thread but if you could explaine how the tone and one half raise on the 6,the. string it would open a lot more possibilities and ready help musically. I feel that change would be more beneficial than the B half tone lower. Your input to the steel community is greatly appreciate by myself and I am sure many others. Best wishes Jimmy Lewis.
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Andy Henriksen

 

From:
Michigan, USA
Post  Posted 10 Jan 2020 6:20 am    
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I just wanted to stop by this thread one last time to let you all know that I made the change discussed - moving the 6th string lower to a 7th string raise, and it was a successful operation!

I'm SO glad I did this, not only because it plays the way I want now, but more importantly because I am no longer scared to mess around under the guitar, and that's a good feeling!

So, thanks to all of you once again!
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Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 26 May 2023 4:38 am    
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This thread deserves resurrection. The input from Paul and Travis is invaluable as are the reported conversations with Buddy Emmons.

I was delighted to read his view of the importance of the B to Bb lower; I have long felt it to be the most important pull after the basic requirements of A,B and C and moving the Es up and down.

Undisputable logic re: raising 7 rather than lowering 6, too.
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Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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Dennis Detweiler


From:
Solon, Iowa, US
Post  Posted 26 May 2023 6:38 am    
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Which string guage on string #7 if raising it a whole tone?
The standard 26w?
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1976 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics 427 pickup, 1975 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics X-12 pickup, Boss 59 Fender pedal for preamp, NDR-5 Atlantic Delay & Reverb, two Quilter 201 amps, 2- 12" Eminence EPS-12C speakers, ShoBud Pedal, 1949 Epiphone D-8. Revelation preamp into a Crown XLS 1002 power amp.
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 26 May 2023 6:46 am    
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Yes, I don't change the 7th string gauge for a whole tone raise. 26W is fine.
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Dave Mudgett


From:
Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee
Post  Posted 26 May 2023 10:17 pm    
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Roger Rettig wrote:
Undisputable logic re: raising 7 rather than lowering 6, too.

I believe I clearly understand the rationale to not prefer to have the string 1 and 2 F# and G# raises on the same lever that lowers string 6 to F#. But add me to the list of knuckle draggers (it's a joke, son) that will never lose the string 6 G#=>F# change. I use it constantly, and the way I have my E9 neck set up, the only reasonable place I have to put the string 1 & 2 raises on a 5 lever guitar is on LKR where my string 6 G#=>F# change lives (my E=>Eb is on RKL - opposite knee from G#=>F#, essential to get the full potential of the string 6 lower). If the string 6 change really interferes with the string 1 and 2 changes so much that I'm willing to lose it temporarily, I'll just back out the string 6 nylon.

I honestly think that the modern standard for E9 is getting more and more to be 4 pedals and 6 levers. I only have one E9 guitar like this, an SD-10 Mullen G2, and I need to get two additional pull trains so I can move the String 1 & 2 changes to LKR2 to go with the solo string 7 F#=>G# change that it came with. Of course, this guitar came with the string 1 & 2 changes on the same lever as the string 6 full lower. A lot of guitars come like this.

If I can find a LKR lever kit for a second LKR on my D10 Zum, I'll do the same - I would love to get the strings 1&2 changes off LKR, which does the string 1/2/6 changes on E9 plus the A=>Bb changes on C6. The Zum is a great mechanism and can handle it, but it's stiffer than I'd like.

I know that the marginal utility of the string 6 G#=>F# change is not that high for everybody. And yes, I know that one can get the same technical change with the string 7 F#=>G# by simply reversing the thought process. But what I really miss is the general fluidity that having that lower on the same string that the B pedal is on brings, plus the wide variety of moves possible with the E=>Eb lever. I tried subbing the string 7 full raise, and I really felt a chasm.

So push come to shove, string 6 G#=>F# stays no matter what. Note that Buddy's standard setup (see chart below) didn't have the string 1 F#=>G# pull but did have the string 2 D#=>E pull AND the string 6 G#=>F# pull on the same lever:



Except for the reversal of LKR and RKL plus the addition of both string 1 and string 2 raises on a couple of my guitars, my basic 5-lever E9 setup is Buddy's, verbatim. In fact, my C6 is almost, if not exactly, the same as Buddy's, at least on the one guitar that has the capacity for it.
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