| Visit Our Catalog at SteelGuitarShopper.com |

Post new topic Split Tuning
Reply to topic
Author Topic:  Split Tuning
Tommy Shown


From:
Denham Springs, La.
Post  Posted 24 Mar 2019 10:01 am    
Reply with quote

Would someone give me some insight about split tun
ing on E 9, and what it is supposed to do?
And as always many thanks
Tommy Shown.
View user's profile Send private message
Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 24 Mar 2019 11:45 am    
Reply with quote

It allows you to raise and lower a string at the same time to get a note that isn't there naturally.

Example: Lower string 6 from G# to F#. Engage pedal B at the same time. The lower to F# on string 6 raises to G when you press the B pedal. This only works EASILY on an all-pull guitar. You need a split tuner to accomplish these changes accurately (barring any super luck without them). The reason being, when you tunes all these notes, the F# on string 6 will be flat. The tuning procedure is:

Using the "extra rod" method.
1. Tune string 6 open to G#.
2. Press the B pedal and tune it to A.
3. While still pressing the B pedal, activate the knee lever lowering string 6. You should now use the lowering nylon tuner to tune a G note.
4. Activate the lever that lowers string 6 only. You will probably notice that the F# note is flat. The extra rod is a raise rod. Use the nylon tuner on that rod to raise the pitch of the F# note so that it is in tune.
_________________
CLICK HERE to visit my website with Mickey Adams videos.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Jack Stoner


From:
Inverness, Fl
Post  Posted 24 Mar 2019 12:11 pm    
Reply with quote

Along with the 6th string split mentioned, I have a split on the 5th string. My lower will lower the B string to Bb. The A pedal raises the B string to C# and with the split it lowers the 5th string to C.

An example of the 5th string B split, is with Pedals A and B mashed and the 5th string lower, pick strings 4,5,6 and that gives you a minor - open that would give you an A minor.
_________________
Franklin D-10, Hilton VP, POD X3, MatchBro, Tonemaster Twin Reverb, Nashville 112, Cakewalk Sonar and Studio One Pro V4.5 DAWs, MOTU 4pre
R.O.P.E. Member
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Ian Rae


From:
Redditch, England
Post  Posted 24 Mar 2019 1:46 pm    
Reply with quote

I don't understand extra rods. All my guitars have split screws in the changer.

I tune the in-between note with the lower nut and the bottom note with the screw.
_________________
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Jack Stoner


From:
Inverness, Fl
Post  Posted 24 Mar 2019 2:12 pm    
Reply with quote

Some such as the Franklin do not have the split screws. My Franklin has screws for the 5th and 6th strings that were put in at my request by Mr Franklin.
_________________
Franklin D-10, Hilton VP, POD X3, MatchBro, Tonemaster Twin Reverb, Nashville 112, Cakewalk Sonar and Studio One Pro V4.5 DAWs, MOTU 4pre
R.O.P.E. Member
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Ian Rae


From:
Redditch, England
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2019 12:31 am    
Reply with quote

I have noticed that some guitars have maybe one or two screws, but while you're building, why not drill and tap the lot? You never know.
_________________
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Charles Kurck


From:
Living in Arkansas but Heaven is home
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2019 3:50 am     E9th Splits
Reply with quote

View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2019 5:32 am    
Reply with quote

Ian Rae wrote:
I have noticed that some guitars have maybe one or two screws, but while you're building, why not drill and tap the lot? You never know.


I think because most of the time, you only hear of players splitting the 5th and 6th strings. But I agree, why not do all the strings.

I have never owned a guitar with the split screws. My Carter and Mullen have the extra rods, and they work really good. But, I have not tried the screws.
_________________
CLICK HERE to visit my website with Mickey Adams videos.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Georg Sørtun


From:
Mandal, VA, Norway & Weeki Wachee, FL, USA
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2019 6:27 am    
Reply with quote

"Max-lower stop screws" work fine, but they are kind of like a "one-trick pony" in that they can only limit max lower by holding back the finger, and thereby facilitate a split with a raise.

I prefer "split rods" – providing there is room for those I need in any given A-P PSG, as "split rods" do not limit our options to one max-lower adjustment pr string, rods can limit raises as well as lowers, and "split rods" can (if necessary) be set up to adjust the travel-curves for syncronised raises / lowers while defining the actual max raise/lower.

As having "max-lower stop screws" does not exclude "split rods" or other compensator rods, having it all is ideal Smile
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Pete Burak


From:
Portland, OR USA
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2019 7:08 am    
Reply with quote

Sierra used to make an add-on thingee that instantly added a split-screw for a every string (I will add a pic tonight).
I saw some other after-market add-on split-screw units at the Dallas show, one I recall is made by Mullen.
Just an FYI if you have no split-screws and want split-screws.
Here is the Mullen one:
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Ian Rae


From:
Redditch, England
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2019 1:36 pm    
Reply with quote

Georg, what you say is very illuminating. I shall learn about extra rods as they would solve the problem on the uni where a string such as the middle G# has to perform two roles with two "max lowers".
_________________
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Ken Byng


From:
Southampton, England
Post  Posted 3 Jun 2019 2:06 am    
Reply with quote

My Show Pro uses rods for splits, and it works perfectly.
_________________
Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Infinity SD10 (4+5) Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E,
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Ian Rae


From:
Redditch, England
Post  Posted 3 Jun 2019 2:16 am    
Reply with quote

Split screws have another disadvantage. The only practical place to put them is closer to the axle than the nearest raise, which makes the adjustment very sensitive. I have to readjust them more often than any of the pulls.
_________________
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Dustin Rigsby


From:
Parts Unknown, Ohio
Post  Posted 3 Jun 2019 2:25 am    
Reply with quote

FWIW, Somewhere on the forum, Tommy White posted that he prefers the extra rod method for tuning stability reasons.
_________________
D.S. Rigsby
-----------—------------------------------------------
Somehow I turned into the “get off my lawn” guy....
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Ian Rae


From:
Redditch, England
Post  Posted 3 Jun 2019 2:37 am    
Reply with quote

So there you are - who would argue? Smile
_________________
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Ron Hogan


From:
Nashville, TN, usa
Post  Posted 3 Jun 2019 5:09 am    
Reply with quote

Mickey Adams has a good video explaining splits.


CLICK
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Mike Perlowin


From:
Los Angeles CA
Post  Posted 3 Jun 2019 3:13 pm    
Reply with quote

I played without them for 25 years, but once I got them, it was like a whole new world of possibilities opened up.

I have 3, on my 4th, 5th, and 8th strings.
_________________
MSA: Magnificent! Stupendous! Awesome!
-----------
Please visit my web site and Soundcloud page and listen to the music posted there.
http://www.mikeperlowin.com http://soundcloud.com/mike-perlowin
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Devon Breshears


From:
Idaho, USA
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2019 11:18 am    
Reply with quote

I'm a newbie, I have a GFI UltraD10 that does not have a split screw mechanism. So, the extra rod would connect to which pedal/lever on the 2nd string for instance? The factory copedant list the RKR change as D/C#, is that where the extra rod should be placed?
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Ian Worley


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2019 12:14 pm    
Reply with quote

I think you're talking about a half-stop Devon, which is different than a split.

A half-stop is "feel" stop point at an intermediate note on a single knee lever, the D note in the case you mentioned.

A "split" refers to an intermediate note that is achieved by applying a separate raise and a lower simultaneously on the same string with two different knees or pedals. In most case the resulting intermediate note will end up a little flat. The split tuning methods discussed above correct/compensate for that.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2019 12:37 pm    
Reply with quote

Devon Breshears wrote:
I'm a newbie, I have a GFI UltraD10 that does not have a split screw mechanism. So, the extra rod would connect to which pedal/lever on the 2nd string for instance? The factory copedant list the RKR change as D/C#, is that where the extra rod should be placed?


Does your RKR also lower string 9 from D to C#? That nylon nut on string 9 is where you tune the the D note on the 2nd string. You adjust the nut on the 9th string to start pulling when the 2nd string is at the D note. Adding the resistance from the 9th string pull gives the "feel stop" at D.
_________________
CLICK HERE to visit my website with Mickey Adams videos.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Devon Breshears


From:
Idaho, USA
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2019 12:49 pm    
Reply with quote

Richard Sinkler wrote:
Does your RKR also lower string 9 from D to C#? That nylon nut on string 9 is where you tune the the D note on the 2nd string. You adjust the nut on the 9th string to start pulling when the 2nd string is at the D note. Adding the resistance from the 9th string pull gives the "feel stop" at D.


YES! That makes so much sense the way you and Ian explained it. Thanks so much for help a new guy out!
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Jump to:  
Please review our Forum Rules and Policies
Our Online Catalog
Strings, CDs, instruction, and steel guitar accessories
www.SteelGuitarShopper.com

The Steel Guitar Forum
148 S. Cloverdale Blvd.
Cloverdale, CA 95425 USA

Click Here to Send a Donation


BIAB Styles
Ray Price Shuffles for Band-in-a-Box
by Jim Baron