Zum Hybrid manual?

Dag Wolf · From: Bergen, Norway

Hi.
Does anyone have the Zum Hybrid manual in PDF format to send me?

Thanks,
Dag

Per Berner · From: SkÃ¶vde, Sweden

Hi Dag! I suppose you've already got the standard Zum manual, which is available on the net (just google "Zumsteel manual"). I bet you are looking for these bits:

(I've got the whole manual at home somewhere, but no time to find and scan it until later this week. Send me your e-mail address at per (at) morot (dot) se, and I will send you a complete copy as soon as I can)

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Dag Wolf · From: Bergen, Norway

Hi Per .
Thanks. No need to scan it. Just take some pics with your mobile phone and send
It via messenger on fb.
Dag

John Lacey · From: Black Diamond, Alberta, Canada

So Iâ€™m thinking that if there is no lift action happening at #57, the hex tuner, should one release or tighten the brass rod to allow that? I have a problem with the 5th. string in that it doesnâ€™t have much action with the hex tuner. It seems that there is an interplay between the brass tuners and the hex nut as they both affect the open tuning of the string. Iâ€™ve obviously broken the rule of â€œdonâ€™t touch the brass tunersâ€.

Ian Worley · From: Sacramento, CA

John, the brass tuners are meant to be set so that they pull the raise scissor to its farthest point where it stops against the body, like push-pull or pull-release system, the highest possible note. You tune the remaining intervals backwards from there. The allen screws (part #57) create a adjustable stop point for the raise scissor to tune the open note, the same function as the lower row of screws on a PP, so the raise scissor doesn't necessarily return all the way the typical neutral position like a conventional all-pull changer. Any other nylons on the raise scissor for intermediate notes function like half-tone tuners on a PP, they should have no effect on the highest raise or the open note when not engaged.

If you're having trouble with the interval between the highest raised note and the open note, the brass nut is probably not pulling the raise scissor far enough on the longest/highest raise, such that it's contacting the body in front of the changer at its maximum pull as Bruce intended. You have to be careful that the brass nuts are not over-tuned too, such that they are putting extra stress on the scissor. This body contact at the highest raise is fundamental to the system functioning and tuning as intended, it's also why Bruce cautions against messing with the brass nuts.

I don't know if this is of any help with the issue you're having, but it's also worth noting that the changer is still in most respects just a conventional all-pull changer. Weak lower return springs and other common issues can affect raise function too if not adjusted properly. The pedal return stop screw can also prevent the pull rod from returning far enough if it's too tight and there is not enough slack, which would affect the available interval between the open and max raised notes too.

John Lacey · From: Black Diamond, Alberta, Canada

Thanks, Ian, for your reply. Iâ€™ll set the guitar up this week and experiment with some of your ideas. Another question, how does the interplay of the two brass nuts on the 5 th. String relate? I know they should go up to the same pitch of C#, but which is which?

Ian Worley · From: Sacramento, CA

There's no real interplay between the two brass tuners on 5. They're both doing the same thing, but independently with two different pedals. The top one, closest to the changer axle is most likely the A pedal, the second the C pedal. Just follow the rods to see which is which. When setup correctly, they both pull the raise scissor to the same max stop point (synced with the pedal stops for both pedals), so that when you engage either pedal and tune the C# raise at the keyhead, you've effectively tuned both pedals. Hope that helps.

John Lacey · From: Black Diamond, Alberta, Canada

Thanks, Ian. Iâ€™ll set my guitar up and check it out.

Jerry Jones · From: Franklin, Tenn.

Make sure your back stop screws allow for enough total pedal travel. ABC have no pedal return springs and rely on gravity to take out pedal slack.
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Jerry Jones

John Lacey · From: Black Diamond, Alberta, Canada

Jerry, are you talking about the crank shaft actuator at the pedal rod?

Jerry Jones · From: Franklin, Tenn.

Yes.

Regardless of the note to be tuned, the pedal crank should hit the fixed nylon stop at the same instant the raise finger maxes out at the cabinet..... that would be an adjustment with the brass nut. When properly set they rarely need re-adjusting.

From there it's a matter of making sure the released finger hits the finger stop screw (#57) before the pedal crank hits its back stop screw (see illustration above with slack and arrow pointing to screw.

My hybrid is so stable that over time I often forget this process.
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Jerry Jones

John Lacey · From: Black Diamond, Alberta, Canada

I remember when I first got the guitar (used), the crank shaft actuator was not stopping at the screw so I screwed the bolt in (clockwise) to take up the slack. I may have over-reduced the travel needed for the finger to move eliminating enough travel for it to contact the body, classic PP mistake!

John Lacey · From: Black Diamond, Alberta, Canada

I backed off the crank actuator screw at the pedal rod and now have more meat on the #57 hex screw. I also checked the screw on 5he 3rd. pedal and that allowed me to move the hex screw on the 4th. string inwards. I guess Iâ€™m the only one having a problem with the Hybridâ€™s tuning system. Iâ€™m looking forward to troublefree service.

Per Berner · From: SkÃ¶vde, Sweden

Hi Dag, I just sent you the complete manual via Facebook (which I normally use about twice a year...), hope it works â€“ if not, we will find another way.

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