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Author Topic:  How to bend the top of pedal rod
Carl Kilmer


From:
East Central, Illinois
Post  Posted 9 Dec 2018 6:27 am    
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I need to make new pedal rods for a steel I put new legs on.
The rods that came with the legs are too short. If I put 1 inch
extenders on them they are way too long.
Yesterday I bought 3/16" x 3' steel rods to make new ones.
I just need to know how to bend the tops without any special
tools before I measure & cut them and thread the bottom ends.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
_________________
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal
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Bob Cox


From:
Buckeye State
Post  Posted 9 Dec 2018 6:46 am     rod
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I have an old car brake hub with a hole drilled in the outer edge. Just insert rod 1/2" and pull back on it while hitting with hammer. Works perfect
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Rex Mayfield

 

From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 9 Dec 2018 7:09 am    
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Depending on what kind of bend you need in the pedal rod, just drill a slightly oversized hole (just large enough to get the rod in), in a small piece of steel (maybe 1/4 to 1/2" in thickness), clamp the piece in a good vice, and like Bob said, start your bend while hammering just as close to the metal as you can. It should get you as much as a 90 degree bend if that is what you need. You can use the same piece with different sized holes for other bends, (like pull rods, etc.). Hope this helps.
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post  Posted 9 Dec 2018 7:56 am    
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Rex Mayfield wrote:
......... It should get you as much as a 90 degree bend if that is what you need.


He's making pedal rods, so he'll need a > 90 degree bend to keep the top ends of the pedalrods secure in the cross-shaft (L-shaped) pedal crank...........he'll likely need to do some "grinder shaping" on the rod hook for easy setup & breakdown.
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 9 Dec 2018 8:17 am     Re: How to bend the top of pedal rod
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Carl Kilmer wrote:
I need to make new pedal rods for a steel I put new legs on.
The rods that came with the legs are too short. If I put 1 inch
extenders on them they are way too long.
Yesterday I bought 3/16" x 3' steel rods to make new ones.
I just need to know how to bend the tops without any special
tools before I measure & cut them and thread the bottom ends.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.


You can make shorter lift kits. You can get the threaded standoffs in several lengths at a good hardware store or fastener stores online. Put the same thread set screw in one side to mate with the ball end connector, and the rod in the other end. It's a good idea to use a space between the peds, bar and leg clutch.

If you can bend the rod you bought, that would be best. Hopefully it's stainless.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting.
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post  Posted 9 Dec 2018 8:24 am    
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Misfire

Last edited by Tony Glassman on 9 Dec 2018 3:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Bill Moore


From:
Manchester, Michigan
Post  Posted 9 Dec 2018 3:03 pm    
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You get a more accurate, neater bend if you heat the rod, then bend. Use a propane torch, concentrate the point of the flame at the exact place you want the bend. Get that spot red hot, then just bend with pliers. You should be wearing gloves when doing this. I leave the end past the bend longer then needed, then cut it to the right length after bending. It's easy to make matching rods this way. The heat will discolor the metal, but it is easy to clean that up with some sandpaper and steel wool.
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Carl Kilmer


From:
East Central, Illinois
Post  Posted 9 Dec 2018 5:05 pm    
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys. After looking thru my tools,
I found an old vice, put the rods together and made a 1/2" mark
on them.I put one in the vice, heated till it started to bend, then
took it out and while still hot bent it a little more with pliers.
It turned out real good, so I did the others. Very Happy Very Happy then took a nap.
_________________
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal
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Ian Rae


From:
Redditch, England
Post  Posted 10 Dec 2018 1:09 am    
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The nap's important. No-one mentioned that.
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Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
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Johnie King


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 14 Dec 2018 2:59 pm    
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Carl was it easy too thread the ends as it was to make the hook?
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Carl Kilmer


From:
East Central, Illinois
Post  Posted 14 Dec 2018 5:41 pm    
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Hi Johnie. Yes it was a lot easier than I thought it would be.
I just put 1/2 inch in a vice and heated it right there with a
propane torch while lightly pulling the rod. As soon as I felt
it start to move, I slowly bent it down to 90%, removed it
and with pliers finished bending it while it was still hot.
You don't need to get it RED HOT, just enough to feel it
start to bend with a little pull and it'll go down very easy.
_________________
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal
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Larry Baker

 

From:
Columbia, Mo. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 14 Dec 2018 7:29 pm    
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Carl,, don't tell me you got rid of your Mullen???
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Mullen G2 SD10 3 & 5 The Eagle
NV112 amp===Earnie Ball V.P.
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