First string zing

Dan Beller-McKenna · From: Durham, New Hampshire, USA

I have read up here and on Reso-hangout about buzzes and rattles. Not quite finding anyone with the issue I'm having, so I'm throwing this out there. I have a 2014 McKenna 6-string square neck reso. Upon receiving the new guitar, it had a harsh sound on the first string at the seventh fret, also a little above and below. The sound is similar to the dreaded sitar sound on pedal steel. As the string gets older the effect is noticeable more at the frets above, as far up as the tenth fret at worst. I do not get the same sound when I play that note (A) higher up the neck on other strings. Using standard D'Addario EJ-42 strings, a Schubb rounded nose bar (but trying other bars does not address the sound).

I pointed this out to Gregg when I first got the guitar, and he suggested it would go away as I played the axe more, but it hasn't. There was some general buzziness that was not addressed by adjusting the spider screw, but I put some felt under the tailpiece and that issue went away. I have learned to live with the first mentioned sound and modulate my attack around that spot, but I would sure like to fix it.

Thoughts?

I should add that, otherwise, the guitar is a great sounding axe.

David Venzke · From: SE Michigan, USA

The first thing I would try is replacing the tailpiece.

If you're brave, you can also take a 0.020 wound string and use it to gently open the slots at the nut and the bridge. It is easy to overdue it at that first string slot, so easy does it. When I do this, the theory is just to ease any sharp edges or pinch points the string may rest on.

Another idea, try rotating the cone so the spider rests in a different orientation to it.

Finally, just for a test, try running the first string to the second string tuner and see if the problem goes away.

Rick Abbott · From: Indiana, USA

Dan, the only way I have gotten rid of that sound is to do a complete setup. I have to believe Mr. McKenna does good work, so don't think I'm criticizing his setup. Guitars change.

For me, a setup means: complete disassembly. Check the lip that the cone sits on for anything that binds the cone...that is, make sure it's flat and wide enough for the cone to be perfectly seated. place the spider on a flat surface to determine if its legs are level on the bottom where they contact the cone. If not, sandpaper on that flat surface and gentle sanding. re-assemble with no screw pressure on the cone. String it with Beard Special 28's. turn the screw until all bad sounds go away...for me, usually not too much. I've only set up a half dozen, or so, but this has worked every time, once on a late 30's Dobro, and the other 5 on low-dollar upgraded resos.

I agree with David, carefully check where the strings contact other parts.
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Mike Neer · From: NJ

Sounds like it could be a flat spot in the nut. Why it only occurs at said fret(s) and at that point in string wear is a question for science, but it could just be the nut needs a slight filing.
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Howard Parker · From: Maryland

I'm at Resosummit as I type, working for Paul Beard setting up dobros, 18 today..Whew.

My suggestion would be to inspect the first string slots at the insert and nut a feel around the edges for a burr. If you feel something you can use a .026 wound string in the slot and GENTLY try to remove the burr. Also 600 grit or so sandpaper if you have. I would not deepen the slot. You run the risk of encapsulating the string.

Failing that a dobro knowledgeable luthier is your best bet. Often tough to diagnose these issues online.

Good luck and hope it's that simple.

Howard
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Howard Parker

03\' Carter D-10
70\'s Dekley D-10
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Dan Beller-McKenna · From: Durham, New Hampshire, USA

Thanks for all the great suggestions folks. I am very confident (with no justification whatsoever) taking apart a pedal steel and mucking around with it, but I am extremely nervous about messing with a reso. I'll muster up some courage, though, and have a go with these ideas.

Thanks!

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

It might be a sympathetic harmonic issue. The 7th fret [fifth away from the root] would have a natural harmonic an octave above the open note.

Sometimes artifacts and overtones can result. Also if the bridge is not in it's perfect position for the correct scale.

Also, you might consider buying a new slotted bone nut and new saddle inserts.

Beard or www.resophonicoutfitters.com offers both already slotted.

You should call those folks first and discuss whether they will likely fit your McKenna first without alteration though...and which composition of saddles they recommend for it.

That's my future plan for a custom built reso I have. I've done slotting on both parts in the past, but I think I'll defer to the experts next time I change them out.

Bill Creller · From: Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)

I have some 1st string "buzzy" issues on both of my Ricks, frypan and the bakelite. These can be aggravating for sure. I'm not smart enough to really fix'em yet...

Dan Beller-McKenna · From: Durham, New Hampshire, USA

So, I took things apart last night and had a look see.

The Beard cone seems to sit in the instrument cleanly, to me untrained eye and hand. For the heck of it, I gave it a turn about 30 degrees (Gregg marked it at the end pin side for reference.)

The Beard #14 spider seems very, very slightly uneven. If I put it on a flat surface, there is the very slightest give take across the legs that run in-line with the bridge, and those at 2:00 and 8:00. Not a wobble, but the slightest back and forth if I apply pressure to one or the other leg. Could be the issue? I have to wonder, though, why it would only affect one string and only in one range of the neck. Not sure I trust myself to get it perfect: just as likely to mess it up more as to fix it.

I really don't have enough expertise to determine whether the nut or saddle grooves are the right size and clean. Seems to me one of them would remain the most likely culprit: I just don't know enough to confirm this. I did the wound string filing thing; not sure whether it did anything.

I think I will have to gt this to an experienced set-up person. Still hoping to find someone within driving distance of southern NH.

L. Bogue Sandberg · From: Chassell, Michigan, USA

This may be a long shot, but easy to try. Lightly wedge a piece of foam between the string and the cover plate a little ways behind the bridge. I had unwanted harmonics that were cured with that trick. On my 8 string I have a piece of foam backer rod under very light pressure all the way across between bridge and tailpiece. Many mandolin players use dampers on their strings in that location.

Dan Beller-McKenna · From: Durham, New Hampshire, USA

Good idea. I'll give it a shot when I get home!

Don Barnhardt · From: North Carolina, USA

I suggest you try David and Howard's solutions first for simplicity's sake. Shifting the spider just a little from left to right may solve your problem. Just stick a screwdriver through a cover plate hole right over a spider leg and lever the leg just a little both ways. I've solved quite a few buzzes that way.

Paul DiMaggio · From: Fort Nelson, British Columbia, Canada

I am not an expert but I had a similar problem on my Gretsch Bobtail. I found that on my guitar the slot for the second string was worn and the break over was too sharp. I initially put a wooden wedge under that string near the tail piece and the sitar sound stopped. At the next string change I put a little dab of JB weld on the back edge of the string slot. When it had hardened a little I used the old string to make a slight groove and let it sit for the required time to harden. Not pretty, but it works.

Dan Beller-McKenna · From: Durham, New Hampshire, USA

I should probably reiterate that it's not so much of a buzz as a slightly harsh, sitar-like sound, not unlike what occurs on pedal steels sometimes, especially on the fourth string.

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