changing a full set of 10 strings

Jerry Dragon · From: Gate City Va.

I have a Deckly S10. I want to change the strings since I have no idea how old the ones on it are. Is there a procedure to follow? Work outside to inside? Take them all of or do one at a time? Put them on and tune them to concert pitch one at a time? Put them all on, put some tension on them, then tune them to concert pitch? Start with the 10 of the first string? Ect. I know tuning floyd rose bridges on a guitar is a pain and takes hours, am I looking at half a day here?

Thanx
Jerry

Tony Prior · From: Charlotte NC

I personally do not follow any set path. I do make sure though that each string gauge is going to the right position ! I have made that error and then made up new words following placing the wrong gauge in the wrong location. Devil

My own process, for multiple decades, remove old strings, install new strings and not worry about correct pitch. I just make them somewhat tight, near pitch I suppose.

I bring them up to pitch starting with 10, slowly. Then a slight tug on each string , be careful of the 3rd string you can snap it with too much tug. Tune again to proper 440 , another slight tug, re-tune to pitch and then allow the Steel to sit if you can be ahead of a gig. Practice and play for sure though.

Also, always bring strings to pitch from underneath the proper pitch. Don't over tune and then relax the tension down to pitch.

I just did 2 x D10's. I don't think I ever put new strings ( full sets) on a Steel or a guitar for that matter, the same day as a gig.

It's not rocket science , it's about 30 min of time is all !

If you use an AUTO winder that 20 to 30 min will fly by ! Very Happy

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Jack Stoner · From: Kansas City, MO

There many ways to restring a pedal steel, none is "wrong".

My method, that I've used since taking up Pedal Steel in 1969, is take all the strings off, lubricate (oil) the roller nuts about every 3rd set of strings. Oil the changer about once a year.

I start with string 1 (F# on an E9th) then string 2, string 3, string 4, string 5. Then work the opposite way - String 10, String 9, String 8, String 7, String 6.

I then tune the strings, I start with 1 and go to 10. Let it sit for a while then retune again. Let it sit for a while and retune again. Let it sit overnight and then do the final open and changes tuning.
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Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

Same as Jack, I prefer to work outside>in. It can be awkward (but not at all impossible) to get the 10th (12th on my 12) wound nicely when it's the last.

Paul Wade · From: mundelein,ill

Jack Turlington · From: Toccoa, GA, USA

I usually change one or two at a time and get it/them tuned up to pitch, work the pedal or knee that moves it, play a little, recheck the tuning and when the new string(s) stay in tune with the old ones strings that are left, move on to the next one. That way when I get to the last string, and get it up to pitch, itâ€™s ready to go except for the usual tweeking. And itâ€™s also a good excuse to take several breaks along the way and play some! Breaks up the monotony.

Per Berner · From: SkÃ¶vde, Sweden

Jack Stoner is spot on. Removing all the old strings at once provides you with an excellent opportunity to dust and clean the fretboard, the pickup and the area inside the peghead, as opposed to changing them one by one. Doing them all at once is also a little quicker, and you don't risk accidentally cutting off one of your newly installed strings.

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

I start bottom to highest pitched string. I go one string at a time to make sure there is no chance of putting the string on the wrong finger.
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Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

Dick Wood · From: Springtown Texas, USA

I do it Jack's way.
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Lee Baucum · From: McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier

Jack does it my way.

Cool

Bud Angelotti · From: Larryville, NJ, USA

Just make sure if you remove the roller nuts, you keep them in the same order. Smile

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Tucker Jackson · From: Portland, Oregon, USA

There are two Jacks in this thread. So... I do it Jack's way, but not Jacks's way.

Jack Turlington · From: Toccoa, GA, USA

Me neether!
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Paul Pearson · From: Alabama, USA

I remove them all clean the guitar up oil it if it needs it then start with 1 then 10 work my way back to 5 and 6

Dave Mudgett · From: Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee

I don't think there is any absolutely "correct" or "incorrect" mechanical approach to changing the strings. It's not really so different than changing strings on a Spanish guitar, and if you can deal with Floyds, you probably won't have a huge problem with this. But I've worked on tons of guitars, and quite a few pedal steels at this point, so this doesn't phase me too much. Still - and this is just my opinion - if you don't want to risk having to get into messing around with the mechanics, I'd just pull off one string at a time and wait to do the big cleanup.

Now, if I have never changed the strings on a (new to me) pedal steel or had a chance to fully inspect/clean/lube the guitar, I'd probably take them all off and then do a full inspection, cleaning, and lube. I'd look for gouges in the changer fingers, and if necessary, sand them with 600-800, then 1200-1500, then 2000-grit sandpaper, carefully following the curve of the finger to avoid sanding a flat spot in the top. I'd lube the changer and roller nut with Tri-Flow, do a light cleaning of the guitar, and so on. There are some good threads on how to deal with this.

But there are some caveats. If you don't know your way around a pedal steel, there are things that can happen when you pull off all the strings. For example, on some steels, the pull rods can come loose from the bell cranks. I've even seen some for which the cross rods can come loose. I haven't torn apart a Dekley, so I can't comment on that, but I advise checking things out carefully before pulling off all the strings and making adjustments to the steel. It's not rocket science, but I like to go into things with my eyes open. If you have any doubt, post a question specifically about things you should look for with a Dekley, and then tackle this when you're comfortable.

And perhaps (IMO) the most important point. Do you know exactly what strings are on the guitar now? Different string sets have different characteristics - the three "biggie" issues are overall string gauge, gauge of the wound strings' cores (the solid-steel string around which the windings are wound), and the materials (nickel vs. stainless, etc). Each of these can have a significant impact on the amount of force required to pull the string to the required pitch. At the very least, I always measure the overall string gauge and core gauge with a micrometer and match these up with a prospective set of new strings, before selecting a new set. Unless, of course, I want to be prepared to make some adjustments in the pull train. If you don't know how to do that, or want to avoid having to deal with potential mechanical issues, I think you should really try to figure out exactly what is on there now, find the same set, and change them once at a time.

My take.

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

Pick a time to change strings, When you have some time to let the strings "Settle In", Don't change strings just before a Lesson, Practice or gig. You want to concentrate on the music, Not on tuning.

Some string sets only have the string order and size on the outside of the set package, Each string envelope only has the size in thousands (.011. .034 .015.). I make sure the string envelopes are in order 1-12 by string size, Then put the string number on each envelope 1 to 12 with a Pen or Magic marker.

I sometimes change 1 string at a time, Tuning each string to tune except 3rd string, Bring it to about F let it set till all strings are tuned then bring 3 to tune. (Mickey Adams suggested 3rd string tuning)

Every 3rd string change, I remove all strings, clean polish and lube the guitar, Then replace strings. 1, 12, 2, 11, 3, 10 Continue order till all strings are replaced. Tune strings, engage pedals & levers
let set,Repeat till strings SETTLE IN Then tune strings, Pedals and levers.

Jerry Dragon · From: Gate City Va.

I broke the fourth spring and had to replace it and other strings in the way made it difficult. If I take them all off at once, when putting them back, is there any order that would give me the best clearance for getting the string on the tuners.

Kyle Everson · From: Nashville, Tennessee

Hi Jerry.
As described above, itâ€™s easiest to go from string 1-5 (F#-B), then from 10-6 (B-G#).

Carter has a great tutorial, which Iâ€™ve attempted to describe in this thread:

https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=2765999#2765999

-Kyle

Henry Matthews · From: Texarkana, Ark USA

I loosen all strings first then cut them with wire cutters close to keyhead, bundle up the changer end of strings then untwist them off key head. With all strings off, a great opportunity to clean as someone above mentioned. When I install new strings, I put on strings 1 thru 5 in that order and then 10 thru 6 in that order. In 45 minutes, I can have both necks strung up with new strings and ready to play. I donâ€™t stretch my strings and I let them settle in naturally and they seem to last longer. Some tweaking is needed as you play.
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Jerry Dragon · From: Gate City Va.

I don't know what gauge or make strings are on the guitar now, but I am a machinist and I have micrometers so I can measure the strings as I go. Thanx for all the good advice. I have been playing a very short while and the strings on the guitar are the ones that came on it. I have no idea how old they are.

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