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Author Topic:  New here and SX Lap 2 question
Darren Porter

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 16 Oct 2018 7:38 pm    
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Hey all. First post. I've been lurking for a few weeks after deciding I want to try my hand at lap steel. I'm a somewhat-accomplished guitar player of 35-ish years (mostly blues these days), singer and songwriter from the epicenter of California's Central Valley. Also led worship for many years. I also design and build my own tube amps for guitar.

I wanted to thank all of you for your input on helping me decide to pull the trigger on an SX Lap 2 in natural Ash. I received it last week and have been going through the first two Lessons With Troy Open-D series. Hopefully one of these days I will be good enough to play the lap steel in my blues band.

I am happy with my purchase but I can already tell I need to change out the bridge so I can get the strings flat. I know I could just file the saddles down but I would rather go in another direction. As I see it I have a couple of options...

I can go with a hardtail strat bridge, either top feed or through-body feed or I can go with a georgeboards setup but I have no idea which route there either.

I would appreciate any guidance on which way would be better. I'm not afraid of drilling or even filling the current post holes but I don't really want to go down the road of filing my own slots in a nut and/or bridge.

Thanks in advance.
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JB Bobbitt


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 16 Oct 2018 8:38 pm    
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Welcome Darrin. I'm also a newbie here and to lap steel. AND, I'm also starting off on my first build, from scratch. I'll be watching for your psots
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JB Bobbitt


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 16 Oct 2018 8:39 pm    
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AND, I also hail from NorCal Central Valley
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Nic Neufeld


From:
Kansas City, Missouri
Post  Posted 17 Oct 2018 1:15 pm    
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I have the 8 string model which has a more "steel-appropriate" bridge design. The 6 string model sounds like it has a Gibson-y single tailpiece-TOM style bridge...are the saddles removable? I wonder if you could just mount a bar across that section with the saddles removed.
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James Kerr


From:
Scotland, UK
Post  Posted 17 Oct 2018 2:46 pm    
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What Nic Neufeld says should be taken into account, I build a lot of my own Instruments for my own use and keeping it simple is the best way I think. Bridges and Nuts meant for regular Guitars are not very good on a Lap Steel.

For the OP Darren, here is one of my own guitars playing in open D, one of my own compositions. Its a 6 string, I have also built 7 and 8 string Guitars with parts from Fleabay, The Fret Board is 3 Octaves and was printed on my home Ink Jet. The Pickup is single coil and cost under $10. As you will see I have a little "extra" fun on this one.

I can't help you with technical Music questions, I am self taught and play by ear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yL_gjP_mjGM&t=4s

James.
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Darren Porter

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 17 Oct 2018 2:58 pm    
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Nic Neufeld wrote:
I have the 8 string model which has a more "steel-appropriate" bridge design. The 6 string model sounds like it has a Gibson-y single tailpiece-TOM style bridge...are the saddles removable? I wonder if you could just mount a bar across that section with the saddles removed.


hmmm... there's a thought. Would I need to file slots into the bar if I did this or would it be "flat enough" with the strings just laying on top?

I would think they can be removed easily since it is a wrap-around bridge with adjustable saddles (for length not height.)
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Darren Porter

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 17 Oct 2018 3:57 pm    
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also thanks John and James.

I will check out your video tomorrow when I have some down-time!
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David M Brown


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 18 Oct 2018 6:22 am     Re: New here and SX Lap 2 question
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Darren Porter wrote:


I can go with a hardtail strat bridge, either top feed or through-body feed or I can go with a georgeboards setup but I have no idea which route there either.



I'd use the georgeboards setup
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Nic Neufeld


From:
Kansas City, Missouri
Post  Posted 18 Oct 2018 7:33 am    
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Darren Porter wrote:

hmmm... there's a thought. Would I need to file slots into the bar if I did this or would it be "flat enough" with the strings just laying on top?


A lot of the great steel designs had nothing more than a steel bar (unslotted) for the bridge. Eg. Stringmaster:

_________________
Waikīkī, at night when the shadows are falling
I hear the rolling surf calling
Calling and calling to me
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Bill Groner


From:
QUAKERTOWN, PA
Post  Posted 18 Oct 2018 7:47 am    
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This bridge is my own design. The spacing is determined by the holes in the unit. Very clean and compact. The bridge is bolted down, via 2 flat heads under the 10mm stainless rod. The rod just sits in the yolks. The housing straddles the fretboard and everything is nice a perpendicular. Strings pass through an aluminum block in the body and are pulled against the aluminum block. The block also serves as the internal mount for the bridge.

2nd picture, same principal with a cover plate...I had to cover up a slight mistake, hence the plate.


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Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40
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Darren Porter

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 18 Oct 2018 8:35 am    
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Very nice Bill.

So, coming from a "traditional" guitar background I know how critical proper intonation is in that setting. Is that not really a concern with lap steel?
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Bill Groner


From:
QUAKERTOWN, PA
Post  Posted 18 Oct 2018 9:19 am    
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Darren Porter wrote:
Very nice Bill.

So, coming from a "traditional" guitar background I know how critical proper intonation is in that setting. Is that not really a concern with lap steel?


If you are asking me, I'm pretty new to lap steel or any instruments. Your question would be better answered by someone with more experience than I have.
_________________
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40
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David M Brown


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 18 Oct 2018 3:48 pm    
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Darren Porter wrote:
Very nice Bill.

So, coming from a "traditional" guitar background I know how critical proper intonation is in that setting. Is that not really a concern with lap steel?


It's not the same! There are no frets and such to compensate for, all you need is a flat level surface for the bar and all the strings to be equal length...and the right height above the fingerboard and pickup.

Overall, lap steels are somewhat easier to get set up than a "Spanish" guitar.
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