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Post new topic Tuning stability
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which has better tuning stability
p/p
55%
 55%  [ 20 ]
all p
22%
 22%  [ 8 ]
equally stable
22%
 22%  [ 8 ]
Total Votes : 36

Author Topic:  Tuning stability
Tal Herbsman


From:
Wisconsin, USA
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2018 10:56 am    
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this may be a little nichey but here goes: I've owned 4 guitars now and have observed that if nothing else my 2 p/p's maintain their tuning (drift over time but also hysteresis) like magic whereas the my all pulls not so much.

I was wondering if this is an inherent design advantage of p/p.

So here's the question: if you've owned both was your p/p or all-p more stable?

thanks!
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Tony Prior


From:
Charlotte NC
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2018 11:50 am    
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Nothing dramatic to report from me, 81 Push Pull and 95 Legrande II, both very stable, they are the same to me.

I would add though, that those that may feel a Push Pull doesn't hold tune, well, uh..nope. The only touch up I do is open notes at the tuning key which is probably from weather and room temp changes. The pulls and lowers are extremely stable.
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Jack Hanson


From:
San Luis Valley, USA
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2018 5:39 pm    
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There's a good chance I'd still be playing the beautiful birdseye Pro I that I purchased brand-new circa '77 if it was possible to both raise and lower the 4th string and have it return to pitch.

Could this be one reason Lloyd doesn't lower his 4th string?
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 27 Sep 2018 2:37 am    
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I've owned both a PP and an all pull. Both are about the same. Put new strings on and give them a chance to "settle in" and they are pretty solid.

I had a 71 D-10 PP (bought new) and played it for 10 years. I now have a Franklin that I bought new (81).

Brand of strings can have a lot to do with tuning stability. I've bought brands that would not stay in tune and even one brand that I couldn't get to tune up.

The old Sho-Bud set up was to lower the 2nd and 8th strings, not the 4th and 8th. I have the old (original) one volume Sho-Bud instruction book I bought at the Sho-Bud store in 1969 and the setup was the 2nd and 8th string for the knee lever (the three pedals and the one knee lever was the setup in the book). I saw a write up on Lloyd's tuning and why he kept the 2nd and 8th rather than go to the 4th and 8th.
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Bill Terry


From:
Bastrop, TX
Post  Posted 27 Sep 2018 5:47 am    
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I'm not sure you can lump all all-pull guitars into the same category. I've owned a couple of the desirable barrel-on-puller, round front Sho-Buds that sounded awesome, but some nights the wrench just lived in the changer. It was erratic, but some guys make it work.

On the other hand, I've owned Carters and a LeGrande, and the tuning was pretty solid and reliable on those. All that said the P/Ps I own are by far the most stable. Tony's comment is spot-on IMO. The open tuning can drift with temp changes, as most guitars do, but the changes are solid as a rock. I believe that's just an inherent benefit of the changer design.

Edited to add that I'm referring to a properly setup P/P.
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Tal Herbsman


From:
Wisconsin, USA
Post  Posted 27 Sep 2018 7:42 am    
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I keep a 10 string p/p (Tommy Cass set up!) at the drummers house for practice. Sometimes 3-4 weeks go by. It is always more or less in tune when I take it out, changes and open strings. I always marvel at it.

I recently got a jackson all p, it's a wonderful guitar I like it a lot--sounds great and plays great but I have to tune up/down 5-10 cents worth on various middle strings every 3-4 songs.

Not sure if that's normal, the p/p never gets re-tuned.
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 27 Sep 2018 1:11 pm    
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Could it be the strings on the Jackson? Have you changed strings? If not that would be the first thing.

My all pull Franklin is as solid as a rock. Rarely do I have to retune in a 3 or 4 hour gig.
_________________
GFI Ultra Keyless S-10 with pad (Black of course) TB202 amp, Hilton VP, Steelers Choice sidekick seat
Cakewalk by Bandlab and Studio One V4.6 pro DAWs, MOTU Ultralite MK5 recording interface unit (for sale)
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