Upgrading Sho-Bud The Professional Leg Attachment?

Joseph Carlson · From: Grass Valley, California, USA

Hello,

I recently picked up a Sho-Bud the Professional and love everything about it but the way the pedal rack attaches to the legs with a wing nut.

At a recent gig one of the wingnuts got away from me and I was feeling around on a nasty dive bar stage trying to find it - yuck!

Has anyone upgraded to the later Sho-Bud style of leg attachment with the sliding bracket:

If so, where did you get the parts? Did you have to replace the entire pedal rack or just move the bolts over and add a bracket and a spring?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Joe

Bill Moore · From: Manchester, Michigan

It would be simpler to just buy a pack of extra wingnuts for such emergencies.

Dan Robinson · From: Colorado, USA

The screw posts are centered on the holes in the front legs. You'd need posts mounted on the inside edge of each leg to work with the bracket.

Would a "star-knob" work?
https://www.grainger.com/StarKnob

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

The simplest way, Buy 3 or 4 proper size Wing Nuts and put them in your seat, bag or Guitar Case. I carried extra Wing Nuts in my seat when I gigged a MSA with the wing nut attachment on the pedal bar. Seems having spares is voo-doo to keep the others from getting lost.
If the pedal bar is not tight against the adjuster collar on the leg, You will have to put some type of spacers on the legs to fill between the adjuster and the pedal bar, Or the pedal bar will slide up the legs when you shove the pedals down. Or shorten the existing bolts and use them as alignment pins in the leg holes to keep the pedal bar from sliding up and down the legs.
It will take some work to lay out drill and tap a hole for another bolt beside each leg slot, Put a filler block in the U on the pedal bar. Cut the slots for the new bolts and bend the sliding plate to properly secure the pedal bar to the leg.
It could hurt the value of the Guitar by reworking the pedal bar, If you want to sell it. Just my thought on this conversion.

Dave Campbell · From: Nova Scotia, Canada

my ldg had the pedal bar mounted like that. al brisco at steel guitars canada didn't like the look of it, so he fashioned together the appropriate parts. i don't remember exactly what was involved but it didn't take him more than ten minutes and it was only fifty bucks (canadian at that).

Dave Campbell · From: Nova Scotia, Canada

my ldg had the pedal bar mounted like that. al brisco at steel guitars canada didn't like the look of it, so he fashioned together the appropriate parts. i don't remember exactly what was involved but it didn't take him more than ten minutes and it was only fifty bucks (canadian at that).

Ian Worley · From: Sacramento, CA

Hey Joe, you could make/add an aluminum insert block to locate the screw to the side and support the clamp, similar to what the "T" channels do in the later racks. They could attach to the rack from the top and bottom with a couple of machine screws. Picture something the size of those old style axle mounts just rotated 90 deg, parallel against the inside of the rack. You could leave the original mounting screws on the ends, cut them off and leave just enough sticking out to locate and secure the rack vertically in the existing holes in the legs. I'm always happy to help if you want drop by, it wouldn't take long

Kevin Mincke · From: Farmington, MN (Twin Cities-South Metro) USA

Put a heavier retention spring on them.

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

I always replace the wingnuts with plastic screw knobs. If by chance you drop one, it's far easier to find, and they don't fall through the cracks in the stage. Any good hardware store like Ace, Lowes, Home Depot, etc... will have them.

Just one style:

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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting.

Joseph Carlson · From: Grass Valley, California, USA

The SGF saves the day again! Picked up a few of these at the local hardware store. Thanks all for the advice!

Ended up having to replace the bolts since they were too long to allow the leg to be fully tightened, but this seems like it will be a workable solution.

Igor Fiksman · From: Georgia, USA

Joseph, funny thing, I am restoring an old professional and feel the same way about screw through leg vs. clamp system of later Buds. I much prefer later clamp set up. I racked my brain on a solution and then realized that it's fairly easy to fabricate a replacement pedal bar. Original bar is a 2"x1"x0.25" 6063 aluminum U channel. I checked some online metal stores and found that 2"x2"x0.25" is readily available to order by the foot. I haven't done it yet, but I will be ordering a 3 foot section. After that it seems that all that needs to be done is cut the walls down to 1" height, drill the screw holes to match original and use a 5/8" drill bit and a dremel tool to cut in leg slots. 2 pieces of steel angle, 2 bolts, 2 springs and 2 wingnuts should complete the bar assemble. Then polish it to mirror shine and move pedals and their supports and a shaft into your new shiny bar. Total material cost is less than $50. Only tools needed are a good quality drill with multiple bits ( drillpress is preferred), a metal cutoof wheel for a circular saw, a strait edge, some sandpaper of different grit, polishing compound and a few hours to kill. Small price to pay to avoid that OCD constantly bugging me.
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SHO-BUD Professional SD-10 Black, SHO-BUD Pro III Custom D-10 Red, Goodrich Matchbox 6A, Steeler's Choice seat, Quilter Steelaire Amps.

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