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Topic: Geo L cable jacks |
Tom Campbell
From:
Houston, Texas, USA
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Posted 12 Aug 2018 3:27 pm |
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Will the Geo L cable jacks fit any other manufactures cable? Preferably a cable with more shielding!
Thanks for any referrals! |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 12 Aug 2018 4:12 pm
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What's wrong with George L's cable. I've been using it, without any problems, since it was first introduced in the early/mid 80's. I don't recall seeing any posts about shielding problems with this cable.
I'm a former amp tech, with my tech background I don't see any problems.
_________________
GFI Ultra Keyless S-10 with pad (Black of course) TB202 amp, Hilton VP, Steelers Choice sidekick seat, SIT Strings
Cakewalk by Bandlab and Studio One V4.6 pro DAWs, MOTU Ultralite MK5 recording interface unit |
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Godfrey Arthur
From:
3rd Rock
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Posted 12 Aug 2018 7:29 pm
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I suppose other cables will fit the Geo L's plugs. But get out your vernier caliper.
The solderless idea is not new. Fender used to include these types of set screw-to-ground non-solder cables as case candy back in the '60's.
Fender cable circa 1969
George L makes 0.155 (3.93mm) and 0.255 (6.47mm) cable sized plugs. The 0.255 being a thicker jacket so you would need to match the cable diam to the plugs.
That said there are numerous makers with the same type of connector. But they appear to have their own dimension tolerances so ymmv as far as fitment goes.
Disaster Area EVO plugs are set to their cable at 0.150 (3.81mm)
Bill Lawrence (Wilde) sells solderless plugs that are 0.196 (5mm)
Evidence Audio sells solder-less plugs including some boutique priced ready made cables. It appears these are at the 0.155 (20awg) jacket sized cables.
Basic space saving small diameter 0.155 cabling.
I agree with Jack, the Geo L cable is excellent cable just have to know how to handle the cable properly because it is basically coax cable and doesn't like to be kinked.
I went the other route. I used the Geo L cable and made my own, soldering Switchcraft plugs. I don't like the unsureness of non-solder.
This George L cable is 18 years old. Still sounds great!
That said, different cables, and plugs for that matter, can be used for different tone like a pick (plectrum) can be used. They all sound different.
Some can't hear any differences.
But then again, some can.
The Pro Co and the Whirlwind cable with brass plugs are 40 years old. Still working great!
But the shielding on cables differ.
George L's 0.155
Canare's
Belden Quad Shield
_________________
ShoBud The Pro 1
YES it's my REAL NAME!
Ezekiel 33:7
Last edited by Godfrey Arthur on 13 Aug 2018 4:22 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Scott Duckworth
From:
Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies
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Posted 13 Aug 2018 3:33 am
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A word on words....
A "jack" is the part mounted in a device into which a "plug" can be inserted into.
In this thread, it is "plugs" being talked about, not "jacks".
School is out... 
_________________
Amateur Radio Operator NA4IT (Extra)
http://www.qsl.net/na4it
I may, in fact, be nuts. However, I am screwed onto the right bolt... Jesus! |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 13 Aug 2018 4:36 am
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| Tom - I'm curious to know if you have a particular issue where additional shielding may be required. |
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Godfrey Arthur
From:
3rd Rock
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Posted 13 Aug 2018 4:45 am
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| Scott Duckworth wrote: |
A word on words....
A "jack" is the part mounted in a device into which a "plug" can be inserted into.
In this thread, it is "plugs" being talked about, not "jacks".
School is out... |
Good one Scott.
The confusion is a variant from countries outside CONUS, namely the UK and its satellites, Italy for example.
The word "jack plug" got shortened to "jack." And if talking to them outside North America's sphere of electronic influence and code, "jack" is what they know that goes on the end of a removable cable.
Since Tom is from Texas, we'll just roll him in some BBQ sauce and hang him over the mesquite ... 
Houston, we have a problem... 
To a Brit, these cables are "leads."
_________________
ShoBud The Pro 1
YES it's my REAL NAME!
Ezekiel 33:7 |
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Tom Campbell
From:
Houston, Texas, USA
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Posted 13 Aug 2018 5:59 am
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WOW! Godfrey...what a great "lesson" i.e. explanation. It's going into my saved file. And, yes I do use the "healthy" method of rolling my cables...always have.
Scott...I did mean Geo L "plugs", not "jacks"...my mistake.
I recently read a posting on the Forum that claimed that Geo L cables picked up a lot of unwanted frequencies and there fore added to the shrillness/brightness of the highs. The posting went on to say to avoid the Geo L cables if your trying to tame the highs...and to do this before changing out the pickup. |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 13 Aug 2018 8:23 am
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| Tom Campbell wrote: |
I recently read a posting on the Forum that claimed that Geo L cables picked up a lot of unwanted frequencies and there fore added to the shrillness/brightness of the highs. The posting went on to say to avoid the Geo L cables if your trying to tame the highs...and to do this before changing out the pickup. |
The G-L cables do no "pick up" highs from anywhere. What they do is to lessen the attenuation of highs from your guitar by reducing capacitance loading of the pickup. It's got nothing to do with the shielding, but rather the material and spacing between (and also the area of) the conductors.
Most steel guitars have an abundance of highs because they only have one pickup mounted close to the bridge. The bottom line is that if you want maximum highs, use a low-capacitance cable. But some players don't care for the razor-sharp highs that these cables promote, and those players benefit by using standard cables, which have a slightly higher capacitance. This reduces the highs in the same way as a standard tone control. And the more cable you use, the more the highs will be reduced.
If you're not using a powered volume pedal or buffer device, the connecting cables are just one more tool you can use to get the tone you desire. |
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Scott Duckworth
From:
Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies
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Posted 13 Aug 2018 1:26 pm
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Donnie, very good point. he cable "capacitance per foot" is what changes the "tone" of a guitar. Less capacitance, less change.
If you can't go to a manufacturers website and look up the capacitance per foot of a particular cable, its probably cheap junk...
_________________
Amateur Radio Operator NA4IT (Extra)
http://www.qsl.net/na4it
I may, in fact, be nuts. However, I am screwed onto the right bolt... Jesus! |
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Godfrey Arthur
From:
3rd Rock
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Posted 13 Aug 2018 7:55 pm
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| Donny Hinson wrote: |
| use a low-capacitance cable. |
| Scott Duckworth wrote: |
| cable "capacitance per foot" is what changes the "tone" of a guitar. Less capacitance, less change. |
Hendrix used a coiled cord to shape his tone along with turning his guitar upside down.
When he wanted a brighter tone in the studio he would use a short length of low capacitance cable.
Experiment with cable makes and models.
Jack plugs too.
| Quote: |
WOW! Godfrey...what a great "lesson" i.e. explanation. It's going into my saved file. And, yes I do use the "healthy" method of rolling my cables...always have. |
Tom, glad you got something out of it. I learned something as well. 
_________________
ShoBud The Pro 1
YES it's my REAL NAME!
Ezekiel 33:7 |
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