The Steel Guitar Forum Store 

Post new topic Newbie Q: Working on pedal steel?
Reply to topic
Author Topic:  Newbie Q: Working on pedal steel?
Al Evans


From:
Austin, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 23 Jan 2018 5:45 am    
Reply with quote

Here's an ignorant question: When you work on your pedal steel, how do you handle it?

Do you go at it from below? It seems to me that for some things (like a sticky return), you would need it together and working to see if you'd succeeded.

Do you take the legs and pedals off, and put in on a bench? How much padding is needed to keep it safe when you turn it over?

I keep envisioning something like an engine stand, which seems like massive overkill... Very Happy

Is there a general procedure for cleaning and setup, like for a regular electric guitar? Any advice, links, suggestions, etc. will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

--Al Evans
_________________
2018 MSA Legend, 2018 ZumSteel Encore, 2015 Mullen G2, G&L S-500, G&L ASAT, G&L LB-100, Godin A4 Fretless, Kinscherff High Noon
View user's profile Send private message

Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 23 Jan 2018 6:05 am    
Reply with quote

I made this VERY rough, very functional cradle. The drilled holes make it adjustable to any steel. Strings are pickable. In reality, the cushions are not really necessary--the soft wood is safe enough.






My general maintenance routine involves making sure there is side-to-side play in the cross shafts (a seasonal thing), making sure the bellcranks are all tight on the shafts & lubing sparingly.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 23 Jan 2018 7:00 am    
Reply with quote

I take a bath towel and fold it in two. I set it on a table and set the guitar face down. I usually leave the front legs on with the pedal bar in case I need to actuate pedals. The only drag is that you can't pick the strings. The rear legs always seem to be in the way.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Tony Prior


From:
Charlotte NC
Post  Posted 23 Jan 2018 3:22 pm    
Reply with quote

same as Richard, towel or blanket. If it's a quick fix or adjust, I keep legs, pedals in tact..

if it's a full blow something or other, I remove the pedal rack and legs.

Just depends..but I never used a fixture.

there is someone who makes reverse short legs which keeps the Steel off a bench by a few inches.
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years

CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

Larry Allen


From:
Kapaa, Kauai,Hawaii
Post  Posted 23 Jan 2018 3:53 pm    
Reply with quote

Here's a quik make..easy Smile

_________________
Excel steels & Peavey amps,Old Chevys & Motorcycles & Women on the Trashy Side
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 23 Jan 2018 5:17 pm    
Reply with quote

Put a large towel on a table, remove the right rear leg (near the changer), and then stand the steel up sideways on the table (or bench) with the left side (tuning key) endplate facing down. Now you can tune the strings, work on either the top or bottom side, manipulate the pedals or levers, and any parts you drop won't fall into the changer. Winking
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Georg Sørtun


From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
Post  Posted 23 Jan 2018 5:20 pm    
Reply with quote

Donny Hinson wrote:
Put a large towel on a table, remove the right rear leg (near the changer), and then stand the steel up sideways on the table (or bench) with the left side (tuning key) endplate facing down.
That's how I do it too Cool
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 23 Jan 2018 6:41 pm    
Reply with quote

I bought some of Bob Cox's work legs, used them for a while, then I started doing what Donny and Georg do.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Yahoo Messenger

Brint Hannay

 

From:
Maryland, USA
Post  Posted 23 Jan 2018 9:59 pm    
Reply with quote

I generally work on the underside with the steel in the case, usually with the front legs, pedal bar, and pedal rods attached (usually the back legs, too, unless one or both specifically gets in the way of what I want to do). If I need to pull pull rods out of the changer I prop the changer end up on the edge of the case, trying, if possible, only to rest it on the body behind the changer, rather than on the changer itself.

I do have to flip the steel over to test the results, but since I only do this kind of thing maybe two or three times a year at most, it's no big deal.

I can't imagine working on the steel with it standing on end--tightening down screws against the underside, fitting in assemblies underneath other rods, etc.--but apparently others are more dexterous than I. Oh Well
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Slim Laurence

 

From:
Austin, Texas
Post  Posted 23 Jan 2018 11:37 pm    
Reply with quote

It depends on what I'm doing, but I either do what Lane, Donny, and Georg do or I just slide under it on my back.

I'm accustomed to working on equipment so more often than not I just get under it like it was a tractor or vehicle of some kind and save the hassle of flipping it up on end. That way it's easy to sit down and test out any adjustments I've made.

But if it's a big job I will definitely upend the contraption and remove the right rear leg so I don't constantly run my head into it for the next couple of hours.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 24 Jan 2018 8:46 am    
Reply with quote

I've done that, but unless you're on the seat, all the fittings are at full arm extension
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Yahoo Messenger

Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2018 8:41 am    
Reply with quote

I've also done the under guitar method. Stopped after the millionth part fell and smacked me in the face. Mad
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

John Polstra


From:
Lopez Island, WA, USA
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2018 3:40 pm    
Reply with quote

Here's another pedal steel stand, easily made in a jiffy from scrap lumber:



John
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

Doug Earnest


From:
Branson, MO USA
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2018 4:13 pm    
Reply with quote

I just lay the guitar on the front so that it is resting on the endplates and the underside is accessible to me. No legs or pedal rack. When working on tuning issues use an open end wrench to operate the cross shaft for the pedals assuming it is a square shaft. It just depends on what you are actually doing to the guitar at the time. When I am working on rods and such I put a towel on the work surface and then just put the guitar upside down on it.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Rex Mayfield

 

From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2018 5:15 pm    
Reply with quote

Larry Allen,,,, I LIKE that!
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Larry Allen


From:
Kapaa, Kauai,Hawaii
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2018 5:27 pm    
Reply with quote

Hi REX...very simple, I have different ones for different steels...held together with 6 Sheetrock screws. I take it apart and it fits on top of the steel in the case when I'm on the road or sell a steel.. Very Happy

_________________
Excel steels & Peavey amps,Old Chevys & Motorcycles & Women on the Trashy Side
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 26 Jan 2018 9:40 am    
Reply with quote



Built a jig from padded 2x4 and a 1x2 strip on the back. It's adjustable for different lengths of steels by moving one of the blocks.

This photo doesn't show it, but a 1x2 furring strip is added to the front which still allows clearance for plucking the strings and tuners so that it can stay in the jig. At my age, I don't care to pick it up any more than necessary.

It sits on 2 tv tray tables and I put small pillows under the changer and tuners for safety's sake just in case.
View user's profile Send private message

Al Evans


From:
Austin, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 28 Jan 2018 1:22 pm    
Reply with quote

Thank you all for the great suggestions!

For my first "exploratory" project, I turned it up on end. I would have had a hard time talking myself into believing it would be stable without the "testimony" of you folks. And indeed, it worked out fine. I found out the things I needed to know, and developed a plan of attack for the most important of the things that need a little help. Baby steps!

--Al Evans
_________________
2018 MSA Legend, 2018 ZumSteel Encore, 2015 Mullen G2, G&L S-500, G&L ASAT, G&L LB-100, Godin A4 Fretless, Kinscherff High Noon
View user's profile Send private message


All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Jump to:  

Our Online Catalog
Strings, CDs, instruction,
steel guitars & accessories

www.SteelGuitarShopper.com

Please review our Forum Rules and Policies

Steel Guitar Forum LLC
PO Box 237
Mount Horeb, WI 53572 USA


Click Here to Send a Donation

Email admin@steelguitarforum.com for technical support.


BIAB Styles
Ray Price Shuffles for
Band-in-a-Box

by Jim Baron
HTTP