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Author Topic:  Sierra Crown D-10
Chuck Morel


From:
Pottersville, New York
Post Posted 11 Jan 2018 7:17 am     Reply with quote

Hello, can anyone give some insight to how hard or easy it would be to change the changer on the E9 neck of my Sierra. The 2-3-&4 strings ring like hell constantly. I tried wet sanding groov's out with really fine grit wet sandpaper and still doe's it. Changer fingers seem to have some groov's in them from playing, All I know is it sounds like a kids toy and I need to fix this problem. Thank you to anyone who can help me with this.

Chuck
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Jason Lynch


From:
Essex, United Kingdom
Post Posted 11 Jan 2018 8:34 am     Reply with quote

Russ Schafer now makes the Sierra steel and frequents this forum. I’m sure he’ll help you out.
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Tim Russell


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post Posted 11 Jan 2018 6:33 pm     Reply with quote

Jim Palenscar has a lot of replacement parts for Sierra steels.

http://www.steelguitars.me/

Steel Guitars of North County
3375 Mission Ave. Suite D
Oceanside, California 92058
760-754-2120
Hours: Tues-Sat 10AM-5PM
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Sierra Crown D-10
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Damir Besic


From:
Nashville,TN.
Post Posted 13 Jan 2018 6:48 am     Reply with quote

Jim is your man for all Sierra parts you may ever need...give him a call...
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Ross Shafer


From:
Petaluma, California
Post Posted 14 Jan 2018 8:33 am     Reply with quote

Jason Lynch wrote:
Russ Schafer now makes the Sierra steel and frequents this forum. I’m sure he’ll help you out.


Sorry it took a few days to get back to you on this. You won't like my input I'm sure, but here goes....DON'T even try taking that changer apart. The old Sierra Changer has somewhere north of 35 parts per string and is largely riveted together so changing some fingers will be, putting it gently an absolute nightmare! Absolutely the most difficult changer to rebuild out there. Even Tom Baker who has probably assembled more of that type of changer than anyone else on the planet is loathe to rebuild them.

Your best bet is to sand the fingers down till the groove is gone. If strap sanding it down with 400 grit then finishing with 600-800 doesn't get you good results, then find your self a fine jewelers file and VERY carefully file the finger radius to make the groove shallower then go at it with the 400. This is tricky because you don't want a flat spot. Unless the wear is really, really bad just strip sanding should do it. be sure cover things well, 'cuz you don't want the pesky filings falling into the changer.

FYI a new Sierra finger assembly (raise and lower finger) can be removed from the guitar in under 5 minutes. Thing that assembly apart takes seconds and requires pressing one 1/8" pin out....no rivets here!

Good luck!

P.S. As per Tim and Damir, Jim Palenscar is "da man" for all pre-2017 Sierra parts and service.
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Ross Shafer


From:
Petaluma, California
Post Posted 14 Jan 2018 10:14 am     Reply with quote

Ross Shafer wrote:
Jason Lynch wrote:
Russ Schafer now makes the Sierra steel and frequents this forum. I’m sure he’ll help you out.


Sorry it took a few days to get back to you on this. You won't like my input I'm sure, but here goes....DON'T even try taking that changer apart. The old Sierra Changer has somewhere north of 35 parts per string and is largely riveted together so changing some fingers will be, putting it gently an absolute nightmare! Absolutely the most difficult changer to rebuild out there. Even Tom Baker who has probably assembled more of that type of changer than anyone else on the planet is loathe to rebuild them.

Your best bet is to sand the fingers down till the groove is gone. If strap sanding it down with 400 grit then finishing with 600-800 doesn't get you good results, then find your self a fine jewelers file and VERY carefully file the finger radius to make the groove shallower then go at it with the 400. This is tricky because you don't want a flat spot. Unless the wear is really, really bad just strip sanding should do it. be sure cover things well, 'cuz you don't want the pesky filings falling into the changer.

FYI a new Sierra finger assembly (raise and lower finger) can be removed from the guitar in under 5 minutes. Once out of the guitar, taking that 2 pc assembly apart takes seconds and requires pressing one 1/8" pin out....no rivets here!

Good luck!

P.S. As per Tim and Damir, Jim Palenscar is "da man" for all pre-2017 Sierra parts and service.
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post Posted 14 Jan 2018 10:56 am     Reply with quote

If it has anodized changer heads, sanding will remove the color. The best way to send changer heads is to remove the whole changer and keep the fingers aligned on the axle. Place the whole assembly gently in a vice. Then to avoid flat spots or uneven fingers, sand the whole assembly en bloc using the abrasive like a shoeshine rag. Work your way up from 600 grit to something really fine like crocus cloth and then polish/buff.

Last edited by Tony Glassman on 14 Jan 2018 11:11 am; edited 3 times in total
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Jason Lynch


From:
Essex, United Kingdom
Post Posted 14 Jan 2018 10:58 am     Reply with quote

Sorry Ross. I knew your name really Embarassed

I’m blaming it on autocorrect like every one else does....
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Pete Burak


From:
Portland, OR USA
Post Posted 14 Jan 2018 11:32 am     Reply with quote

Can you post a pic of the problem spot... and if possible, a sound clip of the offending tone?
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Ross Shafer


From:
Petaluma, California
Post Posted 14 Jan 2018 1:14 pm     Reply with quote

Jason Lynch wrote:
Sorry Ross. I knew your name really Embarassed

I’m blaming it on autocorrect like every one else does....


No worry at all Jason, doesn't bother me.

Tony bring up a good point I forgot to mention....other than removing and replacing the rods, removing the entire assembled Changer is pretty easy.
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Chuck Morel


From:
Pottersville, New York
Post Posted 16 Jan 2018 4:50 am     Sierra changer Reply with quote

Thanks everyone for all the help with this, I will resort to sanding once again, possibly I didn't sand enough last time. It still sounds like a "sitar". limited time to get this done so I need to get cracking. Thanks again to everyone.

Chuck Morel.
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