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Topic: Why Would You Want Splits on Every String? |
Tim Heidner
From:
Groves, TX
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 11:29 am |
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| Just because you can? |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 11:45 am
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Bingo!  |
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Greg Cutshaw
From:
Corry, PA, USA
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 11:48 am
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| Build all that capability in and future proof the guitar. |
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Tim Heidner
From:
Groves, TX
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 11:54 am
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| Wouldn't you need a whole buncha more knees and pedals to split every string? |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 12:04 pm
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| The idea is not so much EVERY string........but that ANY string has spilt-ability |
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Pete Burak
From:
Portland, OR USA
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 12:07 pm
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| Having split screws on every string just looks cleaner and more uniform, to me. |
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Tim Heidner
From:
Groves, TX
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 12:25 pm
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| Yep, I considered that, too. |
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Damir Besic
From:
Nashville,TN.
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 12:43 pm
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| Quote: |
| Why Would You Want Splits on Every String? |
don't know... don't use them, don't need them.... on any string...
_________________
https://steelguitarsonline.com/ |
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Tim Heidner
From:
Groves, TX
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 12:54 pm
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| I used one on the 6th string when I had my Mullen. My Williams that I have now has them on every string, but I'm not using any of them. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 1:29 pm
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If you put the 1st and 2nd string raise on a pedal, you can split it with the whole tone drop of 2, so you pull (maj)7 and 2 up to 1&3 in unison with 3&4, then pull the second 1 to a b7.
With the modern vocabulary making use of pulling into and out of the several unisons on the neck, I think that one is cool. I wouldn't have had that (easily) if my guitar hadn't been drilled for splits.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 2:53 pm
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| I use splits on E9th: strings 5,6 and 10 + C6th: string 3. |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 13 Dec 2017 3:09 pm
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| Tony Glassman wrote: |
| The idea is not so much EVERY string........but that ANY string has spilt-ability |
This.
Drilling and tapping for a split on an experimental change was an extreme pain in the ass and should not have been necessary, had the builder simply drilled and tapped for all strings. I consider it corner cutting. It was not an inexpensive guitar so corner cutting was not "well, you get what you pay for". |
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Marco Schouten
From:
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 12:57 am
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I just use one, to get a double stop for my 2nd string (split screw on the 9th string).
_________________
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JCH SD-10 with BL XR-16 pickup, Sho-Bud Volume Pedal, Evidence Audio Lyric HG cables, Quilter Steelaire combo |
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Ian Rae
From:
Redditch, England
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Posted 14 Dec 2017 2:51 am
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| Tony Glassman wrote: |
| The idea is not so much EVERY string........but that ANY string has spilt-ability |
When I built my 12-string uni I tapped all the holes. I have screws in just five of them, but I have options for life.
_________________
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 15 Dec 2017 4:11 pm
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I thought it was just to confuse future owners.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Mickey Adams
From:
Bandera Texas
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Posted 16 Dec 2017 6:33 am
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I spilt 2,4,5,6,,9,10
_________________
ARTIST RELATIONS: MSA GUITARS
2017 MSA LEGEND XL D10, S10, Studio Pro S12 EXE9
Mullen G2, Rittenberry S10, Infinity D10, Zumsteel 8+9
Anderson, Buscarino, Fender, Roman Guitars, Sarno Octal, Revelation Preamps, BJS BARS, Lots of Blackface Fenders! |
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Pete Burak
From:
Portland, OR USA
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Posted 16 Dec 2017 8:26 am
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This is my Sierra S12U, my main gigging axe.
WhooHoo! 
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Jack Hanson
From:
San Luis Valley, USA
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Posted 16 Dec 2017 8:36 am
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| Damir Besic wrote: |
| Quote: |
| Why Would You Want Splits on Every String? |
don't know... don't use them, don't need them.... on any string... |
Me too. Ignorance is bliss. I'm not even certain what they do. My old push-pulls don't have 'em. And, judging from the recordings made on similar instruments back in the day, any shortcomings are on account of the person plopped atop the folding chair behind the instrument, not the instrument itself. |
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Ian Rae
From:
Redditch, England
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Posted 16 Dec 2017 8:46 am
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| Jack Hanson wrote: |
| My old push-pulls don't have 'em. |
They wouldn't have as a raise trumps a lower. On modern guitars it's a way of making the note you get when you raise and lower a string at the same time into something usable.
Example - raise string 6 to A with the pedal, lower it as if to F# on the lever, and you get a G that you can tune.
_________________
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs |
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Pete Burak
From:
Portland, OR USA
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Posted 16 Dec 2017 8:49 am
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I have an Emmons push-pull too, but... Splits give you more chords that are in tune.
In my experience with the instrument they are just plain fun to have and use when I play.
In my opinion, everyone should check them out sometime in their journey. |
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Jack Hanson
From:
San Luis Valley, USA
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Posted 16 Dec 2017 9:12 am
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| Ian Rae wrote: |
They wouldn't have as a raise trumps a lower. On modern guitars it's a way of making the note you get when you raise and lower a string at the same time into something usable. |
Thanks for the explanation, Ian. Now I understand the nomenclature. Still don't think I need 'em, however.
| Pete Burak wrote: |
| In my experience with the instrument they are just plain fun to have and use when I play. In my opinion, everyone should check them out sometime in their journey. |
I understand. If I ever decide to purchase a modern instrument (which is highly doubtful), I'll certainly consider that option.
The older I get, the less I desire schlepping around a 70-pound instrument (not to mention the behemoth amplifier it requires). Most of my playing nowadays is on a 6-string lap guitar, either acoustic or electric. Hardly anyone besides die hard pedal steel nerds can even tell the difference.
Still, I gotta admit that nothing beats the sound of my old fatback rosewood 'mica D-10 into my almost as old PV LTD-400 with its newer BW 1501-4. To die for. |
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Pete Burak
From:
Portland, OR USA
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Posted 16 Dec 2017 9:24 am
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I totally agree with everything you said.
...But please understand this thread is about Splits on every string!... So here it is again
This is my Sierra S12U, my main gigging axe.
WhooHoo!
As you can see the Split-Bar is an aftermarket product made by Sierra that was added to my Steel.
The adjustment-screw provides a tune-able hard-stop for the lowest lowered-note for each string with a Split.
Once set, I have hardly ever had to adjust them.
The ones not in use are just backed off until I come up with an idea for them someday.
You could probably make a similar Split-Bar to add on to any brand.
A guy with a drill press and a block of hardwood (Purple Heart?), and a set of screws, could make a working prototype in minutes.
Last edited by Pete Burak on 16 Dec 2017 10:25 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Roger Rettig
From:
Naples, FL
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Posted 16 Dec 2017 10:25 am
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I would hate to have to do without split-tuning!
My first steel - a ZB - by some happy chance would give me a pure C note on string 5 with the A pedal and the half-stop lower engaged. I knew nothing then (even less than now) and assumed that it was inherent in all pedal steels for a combination of pedals-and-knees to give you a perfect 'split'.
I soon learned different with a Sho-Bud I had.
I like Greg Cutshaw's response. Future-proofing your guitar! I use splits on 10, 7, 5, 4 and 2 but we never know what we might want 'down the road'.
_________________
Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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Georg Sørtun
From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
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Posted 16 Dec 2017 6:05 pm
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| I have so far not bothered to add max-lower screws to any of my steels, as split-rods have provided me with all the split functionality I want and need. Split-rods handle both max-raise and max-lower equally well. |
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Pete Burak
From:
Portland, OR USA
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Posted 16 Dec 2017 6:13 pm
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| Georg Sørtun wrote: |
| I have so far not bothered to add max-lower screws to any of my steels, as split-rods have provided me with all the split functionality I want and need. Split-rods handle both max-raise and max-lower equally well. |
I also totally agree with George.
I acquired a nice '80's Zum S12U with no Split-screws that I am considering going with the rod method for strings 5 and 6.
For me it mainly comes down to what parts I have on hand to make the idea work. |
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