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Post new topic Newbie. Hello everybody and Sierra Olympic S12 questions
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Author Topic:  Newbie. Hello everybody and Sierra Olympic S12 questions
Jörg Berger


From:
Germany
Post Posted 2 Jan 2018 3:30 am     Reply with quote

Hello again,

had a lot of guitar playing going on and not the nerves to dig deeper in the PDS-pond.

But yesterday I put that guitar on the bench again and startet setting her up. More silly questions to come.
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Jörg Berger


From:
Germany
Post Posted 2 Jan 2018 8:18 am     Reply with quote

First issue... all pedals are touching the floor before the adjusted string pitch is reached.

All pedals are mounted in the lowest hole of the lever.

I'm thinking about moving the pedals one hole up and try again.

What would be the effect if I shorten the rod adjustment?

Thanks in advance and a happy new year to everybody.
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Charley Bond


From:
Inola, OK, USA
Post Posted 2 Jan 2018 9:10 am     Sierra problems Reply with quote

It always help if you send a picture of your problem(s)
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post Posted 2 Jan 2018 9:14 am     Reply with quote

Sounds like you just need to adjust the length of the pedal rods. Loosen the lock nut and screw in a turn or 2 til you have clearance from the floor. Won't affect anything with the mechanics' geometry if that's what's concerning you. The pedals will sit a bit higher at idle of course.

I've had 3 Sierra guitars, but I cannot remember which hole works best for the ball stud. I think it's the center one. Maybe check out some photos of other guitars here or someone will step in.

You might try sitting some furniture glides or coasters underneath the legs first and see if that is going to help.
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Jörg Berger


From:
Germany
Post Posted 2 Jan 2018 12:27 pm     Reply with quote

Thanks Jerry,

gonna find me a matching wrench for the rod-locking-nuts.

Next question: I will copy the copedent of my GFI.

Currently the knee lever for the first string raises from
F# to G. I want F# to G#. I understood that I have to move up the rod in the changer to get that done. The matching holes in the changer are further away. So I need a shorter rod. Is that correct?
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post Posted 2 Jan 2018 12:43 pm     Reply with quote

I don't think I'd move the changer hole, but rather use a different slot on the pedal bellcrank.
I'm also not entirely sure that you'd need a different rod if you WERE to move to the changer hole closer to the axle.
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post Posted 2 Jan 2018 12:48 pm     Reply with quote

You will need more travel. Bell crank hole farthest away from the body will add travel.

Might try loosening and rotating the nylon eccentric stop first. That might give you enough extra travel without having to move anything else.
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Jörg Berger


From:
Germany
Post Posted 10 Jan 2018 1:23 am     Reply with quote

Thanks Jerry,

it was a combination of both since I don't wanted to
place the rod in highest position possible of the
bell crank. Looked quite steep to me.
Or do you think this is uncritical?



Next is refurbishing the tone circuit. The switch
might be defective. Malfunction from time to time.

Jerry Overstreet wrote:
You will need more travel. Bell crank hole farthest away from the body will add travel.

Might try loosening and rotating the nylon eccentric stop first. That might give you enough extra travel without having to move anything else.
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Jörg Berger


From:
Germany
Post Posted 14 Jan 2018 5:26 am     Reply with quote

Short update here.
Have removed all the stickers and refurbished the electronics. Also adjusted the pedals and levers.
Now it's playable and the setup resamples the GFI I made my first steps on two years ago.

Jim Palenscar has some parts to make it look nicer and I hope to get rid of all the metric truck screws.

Thanks all for your help.








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