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Author Topic:  Fender D8 Tuning
David Walker

 

From:
Idaho, USA
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2015 11:38 am    
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I've been playing 6 string lap steels in open E tuning for a few years now. I mostly play rock, blues, and Americana styles. I just bought a D8 that I believe is a 1953. It has not been delivered yet, but the metal pup covers and the fret markers make me think it's 53 with 26" scale. I'll probably tune one neck in open E for the familiarity. I'd like to learn some western swing. Can anyone suggest a good 8 string tuning to try on the second neck? I have zero experience with 8 strings. Thanks!
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Keith Glendinning


From:
United Kingdom
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2015 11:52 am    
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Got to be A6 or C6 for Western Swing.
Check John Ely's site for the various tunings and which string gauges to use.
Also check Cindy Cashdollar's DVD's for the basics for playing in that style.
Regards,
Keith.
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Stephen Cowell


From:
Round Rock, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2015 11:56 am    
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I recommend A6 for your guitar... for one thing, your major chords will be based at the nut on A, easier for (presumably) someone starting from standard guitar. Also, C6 high 3 would end with a G string on top... not a good thing for 26" scale, it gets kinda stretchy up there (one reason Fender abandoned this scale).

A6 high 3 is spelled
E
C#
A
F#
E
C#
A
F#

... and for gauges, start at around .060 and end up at .013, I'd guess. Think of the gauges as really tight jazz guitar strings... but up 2 frets due to the scale. A .015 is a nice tight string for E on normal scale steel, but would be in danger of destroying your (extremely hard to find) tuners on your guitar.
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David Walker

 

From:
Idaho, USA
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2015 2:50 pm    
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Thank you gentlemen. Seems like great advice, and I appreciate the level of detail. I'll try A6.
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Joe Kaufman

 

From:
Lewiston, Idaho
Post  Posted 22 Nov 2015 3:55 pm    
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I use these two tunings that I think would be good for you A6 & E6:
E A C# E F# A C# E

E B E G# B C# E G#

The high G# in the E6 is probably to high for your scale length so I would either drop it and add a low B or more likely transpose the same tuning down a whole step to D6.
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David Walker

 

From:
Idaho, USA
Post  Posted 28 Nov 2015 1:17 pm    
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The D8 arrived today. It is indeed a 26" scale. The pups are strong, and the tone and sustain are outstanding. One surprise though, the bridge covers are screwed down, and it has no blend pots. I guess they added that feature later. Lots of chips in the finish, but all the metal is good, no corrosion at all. Now I just need to figure out how to deal with all these strings. So far it seems like a very different animal from the six string lap steels I've been playing. I have a gig Friday, and I may not have time to figure out all the music in a new tuning. Hope I can pull it off though. I've been juggling a mandolin on a strap and a steel in my lap. I think the legs on the D8 will simplify things a lot. I'm pretty stoked. Thanks again for the advice on tunings.
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Jeff Mead


From:
London, England
Post  Posted 28 Nov 2015 4:21 pm    
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You've just got to use it Friday!

How about putting your regular tuning on one neck. Maybe extend it at the bass and. If 8 strings is confusing just string up the middle 6.

There will be times in the set you'll appreciate that crutch.

Get into the new tunings when you have some time.
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Clyde Mattocks

 

From:
Kinston, North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 28 Nov 2015 10:40 pm    
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In my days before pedals, I used A6 and C6. Since I've been touring with the Malpass Brothers, I have been using the Don Helms E6 on the top neck since they do a ton of Hank stuff. I find it is my go to tuning more and more because it not only gives me the Hank sound, it also is timbred right for the old steel open string instumentals like Steel guitar Rag, Roadside Rag, etc. plus the second and third strings are timbred right for the A6 sound. When you get down in the lower strings, they hold up well against the band because they are pitched higher than C6 although the intervals are the same. I keep the old trusty A6 on the back neck because if I want the C6 growl, I can just go inside a step and a half higher.
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David Ellison

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 30 Nov 2015 9:33 pm    
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In the heyday of western swing, I think the standard tunings for a doubleneck were A6 and E13.

If you're going to play western swing, you should try the E13 tuning on one of the necks. Once you start playing songs with lots of VI and II chord changes, you'll see why this tuning was popular. There are clips on youtube of Bob Wills with Bobby Koefer on steel... he's using the E13 for most of what he's playing.
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David Walker

 

From:
Idaho, USA
Post  Posted 13 Dec 2015 9:23 am    
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The gig last week went great. I ran the new D8 through my '42 National Dobro Model 75, and the tone was everything a guy could hope for. We did lots of Johnny Cash and Hank Sr. Plus a bit of Neil Young and a bunch of originals by my buddy Joel Sandoval. I stayed on one neck in a familiar tuning. The legs proved to be a great help when I switched off to mandolin. I've been coveting a Stringmaster for years, and I'm very happy with it.
I did discover a bad tuner though, and I have a question. Are the tuner pans pretty standard from year to year? I'll be looking for a replacement, preferably with lollipop keys, and I'm wondering whether the pans varied much over time. Thanks!
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Stephen Cowell


From:
Round Rock, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 13 Dec 2015 9:54 am    
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Ouch... they are a known issue in the earlier Fender guitars, including the first issue SM's. Search 'lollipop' on the Forum for many threads on the subject... these are scarce on eBay, but come up once in a while. One solution is to slot the tuning pan (as Fender later did) and use single replacements... the tuners are soldered to the pans on these oldies, so it's an involved job.
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