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Author Topic:  3rd string on E9th all-pull won't tune
Ryan Zimmerman


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 6:24 am    
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I have an all-pull MSA Classic S-10 E9th. I do all my own repair work, but this one has me stumped.
The steel was working fine until about a month ago when I noticed the 3rd string wasn't raising all the way to A when I press the B pedal. Tuning to the correct pitch at the endplate doesn't allow the string to return to G#. In short, there isn't enough travel. If I back off the tuning rod until it just clears the changer, the open note returns to G#, but the raise comes up about 20 cents flat.

If this were the only change on the B pedal, I would make the pedal travel longer. However, the 6th string (an octave lower) also has this change and has stayed in perfect tune without any adjustments (other than the normal tweaks because of temperature). If I lengthen the pedal travel, the 6th string raise would need to be backed off at the endplate. This would make the 3rd string raise as soon as I touch the pedal; but the 6th string would not begin to raise until the pedal was a good ways down, so lengthening the pedal travel is hardly an option.

I haven't changed string gauges.
I replaced the 3rd string in case it was old but it didn't make any difference.

Any ideas?
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mtulbert


From:
Plano, Texas 75023
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 6:40 am    
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Check and see if your lowering finger on the 3rd string is engaging a little when you hit the B pedal. May just need an adjustment on the springs.

Good luck

MT
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Ryan Zimmerman


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 6:48 am    
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I should have mentioned:
The lowering finger stays firmly on its stop when I press the B pedal.
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David Martin


From:
Kingsport, TN 37660 USA
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 7:08 am    
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Have you checked to see if the 3rd string bell crank is loose on the cross shaft? I believe the early MSAs had round cross shafts.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 8:01 am    
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Move the third string pull farther out on the bellcrank
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Ryan Zimmerman


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 8:29 am    
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David: The rod from the bell crank to the changer is a bit long, so I can't get an allen wrench into the set screw that tightens the bell crank on the cross-rod to see if it's tight. However, I pushed on the bell crank as hard as I could and it didn't move so I'm guessing it's tight! Smile

Lane: You're right in theory. However, the pedals have "stubby" bell cranks with only 2 positions. The rod for the 3rd string's change is already on the bottom hole of the stubby bell crank.
Also, this pull has been working at this position since the late 80's, so something else must be the root of the problem.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 8:59 am    
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Try a new nylon nut?
If it had been fine and now it's not, I'd try a fresh BRAND of string.
Also check for string ball.
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Ryan Zimmerman


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 9:36 am    
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Lane: No string ball in the changer.
Have been using the same brand of strings as far back as I can remember. What brand do you recommend?
By "nylon nut" I assume you mean those for tuning at the endplate. I swapped the 3rd string raise nut with the one for the 5th string A pedal raise. I didn't see any difference, so I swapped them back.
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richard burton


From:
Britain
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 9:54 am    
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Are you playing on carpet?
The pedal might not be moving it's full travel if carpet is stopping it.
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Ryan Zimmerman


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 9:57 am    
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I'm playing on carpet, but there's plenty of room under the pedal.
I wish the real fix was that simple!
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Brett Lanier

 

From:
Madison, TN
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 10:08 am    
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I would start by getting the pulls properly in tune at the changer by engaging them with your fingers, not the pedal. Then move on from there. Also important to make sure both 3rd and 6th strings are coming back to the stops when the pedal is not engaged. That's what you call "overtuning", but I'd imagine you're well acquainted with that concept if you've been doing your own setups.
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Ryan Zimmerman


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 10:25 am    
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Brett: They're not overtuned (been there, done that on another string once).

I'm not sure if I understand what you mean by
Quote:
getting the pulls properly in tune at the changer by engaging them with your fingers, not the pedal.

Pulling on the rod would be the same as activating the pedal, not? Confused
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 10:45 am    
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brett is probably confusing the fact. emmons p/p changers can be set to the action of each change without the rods being attached even.
but not necessarily so with an all pull changer.
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Wayne Quinn

 

From:
Cape Breton.NovaScotia
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 11:05 am    
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Ryan. tune your G sharp open. then press your pedal and pull your 3rd to A. if its pulls up flat tune it at the end plate until it tunes up to pitch with pedal down when you release your pedal if it comes back sharp try with your finger and pull the finger at the end plate back until it comes to proper pitch. if that works then I would say there is something holding it from coming back all the way to right pitch . my guess would be weak return spring on that string. your thinking the prob is in the raise when actually it can be in the lower or return.,try adjusting that return spring about 1 full turn on the tension screw if you have that type hope this helps. Smile
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Last edited by Wayne Quinn on 26 Aug 2015 11:23 am; edited 1 time in total
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Ryan Zimmerman


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 11:20 am    
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Wayne: I followed your instructions and the open came back sharp. I couldn't pull the finger back because the pull rod was holding it slightly forward. With pedals up, I loosened the raise at the endplate and the string returned to pitch. Of course, the raise comes up flat again... Back to square one.
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Wayne Quinn

 

From:
Cape Breton.NovaScotia
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 11:28 am    
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your saying you couldn't pull it back to proper pitch with your finger.or a small screw driver at the end plate can you adjust your return springs with a screw driver on your guitar
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Ryan Zimmerman


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 11:38 am    
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No Wayne, the return springs on my steel are not adjustable.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 12:11 pm    
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Check that you don't have something on the pedal pull or the stop screw.
If you didn't make a change, SOMETHING changed.
Wait. Is the bellcrank still standing nearly straight up?
On MSA, with the round shafts, if the bellcrank is laid over, the rod will be moving more up-and-down than in-and-out.
If it's laying over, you can either replace the bellcrank, or take it off, and sand a SMALL amount from the mating surfaces, so it clamps tighter when you screw it down.
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Ryan Zimmerman


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 12:34 pm    
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Lane: Both bell cranks are close to vertical. How nearly is "nearly vertical"? The 3rd string bell crank might lean away from the changer a slight bit, but it's just a slight bit (not more than 2mm difference).

Nothing on the stop screw; not sure what you mean by something on the pedal pull.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 12:50 pm    
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The pedal pull is the thing that's not quite a bellcrank, that the pedal rod attaches to. The bit that hits the stop screw.
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Ryan Zimmerman


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 12:54 pm    
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I checked, nothing on the pedal pull.
The issue could hardly lie there as that would also affect the 6th string.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 12:56 pm    
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Is the rod going through the upper or lower hole in the changer?
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Bob Carlucci

 

From:
Candor, New York, USA
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 1:04 pm    
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Ryan Zimmerman wrote:
I checked, nothing on the pedal pull.
The issue could hardly lie there as that would also affect the 6th string.

Ryan,, where in Pa, are you??... If you are in central or north central Pa, I would be happy to fix it for you for free if you care to bring it by... I know MSA steels very well, having owned and played and repaired them them for the better part of 40 years on and off.. There simply isn't that many things to go wrong in that system, and I can assure you I would have the problem found in minutes.. Over many years the #1 problem I have had with MSA steels is the fact that the ball ends on the broken 3rd string INSTANTLY find their way into the changer causing all kinds of issues.. I have had them stuck inside MSA changers so tight, that I had to remove the lower springs to get them out... bob
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Don Christy

 

Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 1:13 pm    
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I'm glad you found the problem.

Smile


Last edited by Don Christy on 28 Aug 2015 7:36 pm; edited 3 times in total

Ryan Zimmerman


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 26 Aug 2015 1:41 pm    
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Lane: It's in the lower hole.
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