The pin that holds the ball end broke off !

Peter · Posted 12 Jan 2003 12:43 pm

I wonder if anyone can help me with a problem with my Remington U12 ?
The pin that holds the ball end for string 12 broke off the changer.

Now to reach the problem area, I need to get to the changer (without taking it off the guitar) but I can only do that by removing the neck.
However, I can only see 2 screws next to the pup which hold the neck down.
I suspect the other screws are under the fretboard.

Question 1: how do I take the neck off?

Question 2: I have 3 options to fix the problem:
A) Replace the pin with a new one (where can I get these pins?)
B) OR Replace the pin with a thin self-tapping screw, which I have. (how do I get the broken part out?)
C) OR Put a thin screw-with-nut through the tuning rod-hole closest to the changer and attach the string to that.

Hope you can help

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Peter den Hartogh-Fender Artist S10-Remington U12-Hilton Volume Pedal-Gibson BR4 lapsteel-Guya "Stringmaster" Copy-MusicMan112RP-Peavy Rage158- - My Animation College in South Africa

[This message was edited by Peter on 12 January 2003 at 12:47 PM.]

Lyle Bradford · From: Gilbert WV USA (deceased)

This happened to a freind of mine and he drilled out the old pin and used a dow. I am not sure about your particular guitar but most necks have screws underneath the guitar holding the neck to the body.

[This message was edited by Lyle Bradford on 12 January 2003 at 01:32 PM.]

Jody Sanders · From: Magnolia,Texas, R.I.P.

Hi Peter. E-Mail Bobby Bowman at : bobbybow@swbell.net . He can help you. Best regards, Jody.

Larry Bell · From: Englewood, Florida

Most guitars (both of mine) use rollpins that can be purchased at automotive supply vendors in the US -- not sure about your neck of the globe.

I broke one on my Fessy a couple of months ago. I drilled out as much as I could (it was broken off FLUSH) and pushed what was left through so that I had about 1/4" - 3/8" protruding and about the same length tapped into the finger.

The replacement was a 1/16" automotive rollpin.

So far so good!

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Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2000 Fessenden S-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro

Gino Iorfida · From: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

Not sure what length is needed (my steel has the claw type to hold the strings)

BUT if you go to mcmaster carr ( www.mcmaster.com ) and do a search for "roll pin" you'll find stainless 1/16" roll pins in boxes of 100 pcs for like $2 or so depending on length. You'd have a lifetime supply at that price

Peter · Posted 13 Jan 2003 9:22 am

Thanks for the tips, guys. Bobby Bowman also emailed me a couple of very good tips.
It looks like I cannot get the neck off unless I remove the fretboard. If it is made of cardboard, I might destroy it. So I can only start once I have secured a replacement fretboard. The alternative is to drill a hole through the end of the neck and make a new pinhole just under the old one. Very feasible, thanks Bobby.

In another post a mentioned that the string sounds muddy. I wonder if the weak pin had something to do with it. I will know once I fixed it. I also read somewhere that you can use Divebomber strings for a good low sound on a shorter than bass-guitar scale. My scale is 24 1/4. I will try that also and let you know.

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Peter den Hartogh-Fender Artist S10-Remington U12-Hilton Volume Pedal-Gibson BR4 lapsteel-Guya "Stringmaster" Copy-MusicMan112RP-Peavy Rage158- - My Animation College in South Africa

Tony Prior · From: Charlotte NC

Peter, when this happened to my Sho Bud Pro III..I drilled out the old piece and tapped in the next size drill bit which I pre-cut to an approptiate length. Worked like a charm.

tp

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

Peter, some manufacturers use hardened steel dowel pins (and not "roll pins) for the string-ends. Drilling them out can be a real challenge. Sometimes it's easier to just drill another hole just below the old pin, and then press a new one in there, instead. (Make sure you can still get the loop on the pin easily.) Also, fretboards that are glued can usually be removed without damage if you heat the neck with a hairdryer. If it still proves stubborn (and you can get just a small corner to lift), try using some strong string or fishing line (not monofilament!) and "sawing it" back and forth under the fretboard to break the bond. Done properly, this lets you remove the fretboard without damage, as the glue is usually softer than the neck or the fretboard material. It will take a while, but it can be done.

Lynn Kasdorf · From: Waterford Virginia, USA

I did this a while back on my Emmons Lashley leGrande, while trying to retrieve the remnants of a broken string- (sheesh what a dope i was).

Anyway, I figured that trying to drill out a hardened roll pin that is in soft aluminum would never work, I drilled a new hole slightly above the broken pin. I drove in a short piece of steel drill rod that I happened to have, and it worked great.

I did all this without taking the changer apart, by the way. It was nerve wracking and tedious, careful work, but it sure beats disassembling the whole dang changer. I actually have the proper replacement finger, but have never felt like taking it all apart.

Guest · Posted 14 Jan 2003 3:38 am

I used the "Tony Prior" method -- a little more expensive than a roll pin, but works great and is really strong.

Peter · Posted 21 Jan 2003 10:00 am

Thanks guys for all the good advice. I got the fretboard off with a little bit of solvent. This was no problem as it was made of plastic.
Can you believe it, the neck was bolted down with 12 screws! It was impossible to get the old pin out so I just drilled a new hole underneath the old one and forced a hardened steel pin in the hole. Easy! Now I can also clean the changer and polish the surface.
You guys are great! Thanks

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Peter den Hartogh-Fender Artist S10-Remington U12-Hilton Volume Pedal-Gibson BR4 lapsteel-Guya "Stringmaster" Copy-MusicMan112RP-Peavy Rage158- - My Animation College in South Africa

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