| Author |
Topic: Cleaning my MSA changer |
Harry Busby
From:
Wroxeter, Ontario, Canada
|
Posted 3 Dec 2002 7:21 pm |
|
My MSA Classic sat in the closet for 20 years-never did learn to play it. Got it out a couple of months ago and have been working hard to learn to play something. Anyway when using the knee lever that lowers the E or 4th string the changer sometimes sticks and won't return. What should I use to clean the changer without hurting anything else? Also how should I clean the changer?
Thanks
Harry Busby |
|
|
|
Jim Vogan
From:
Ohio City, Ohio 45874
|
Posted 3 Dec 2002 7:46 pm
|
|
You should find plenty of info on this link.
http://steelguitarforum.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi
------------------
Jim Vogan Emmons Sd10
G.D. Walker Stereo Steel Combo
Bakelite Ric
Hilton volume pedal
[This message was edited by Jim Vogan on 03 December 2002 at 07:49 PM.] |
|
|
|
Jim Vogan
From:
Ohio City, Ohio 45874
|
Posted 3 Dec 2002 7:57 pm
|
|
I'm sorry, I can't get that link to work. Do a search"cleaning a changer" in pedal steel section and you will find lots of info.
------------------
Jim Vogan Emmons Sd10
G.D. Walker Stereo Steel Combo
Bakelite Ric
Hilton volume pedal
|
|
|
|
Gino Iorfida
From:
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA
|
Posted 4 Dec 2002 7:45 am
|
|
I dont' know ow 'patient' you are and your level of mechanical ability, but there are 2 basic ways to approach this:
1) the "quick semi-fix" -- take the steel out into your driveway and spray the changer with gumout (make sure not to get it on the laquer!, however this will only take off a bulk, and may not fix the problem, which could be the nylon washers fouling up
2) the 'proper way' (there may be better ways, but this is what I did) a) remove the changer (take GOOD notes of the rodding!), and first spray each scissors mechanism with gumout (carburator cleaner) to get the bulk of the gum off, finish by using a rag soaked in laquer thinner to get ALL the gunk off of them. lube WELL after that... also while you are in there you might as well get all the gunk off the fingers, axle etc.
When you reassemble, I recommend replacing the nylon spacers (the teflon thin sheets on each end of everything seem to hold up WELL, so you can just clean them with rubbing alcohol). Some guys have used brass or other spacer materials, but I found the white teflon flat washers from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com -- part# 95630 A246 -- White teflon flat washer, 1/2" screw size, .500" ID, .688" OD, .027"min thk) worked well for me, they are I think $4.18 a pack of 10. reassemble and enjoy!
|
|
|
|
Raymond Beale
From:
Rosenberg, Texas, USA
|
Posted 4 Dec 2002 10:43 am
|
|
Do NOT use gasoline or similar ? Some of the MSA's used a form of plastic/nylon washer, not teflon, and they will disolve, self-destruct, etc. ask me how I know. It now has brass spacers. That was one of those OH S---!! pieces of education.
------------------
"STEELIN' IN STYLE"
Williams S-12, MSA S-12,
Vegas 400, Evans amp, POD lINE 6. Hilton Digital vol.
Ray Beale Rosenberg,Tx
|
|
|
|
Jim Smith
From:
Midlothian, TX, USA
|
Posted 4 Dec 2002 11:16 am
|
|
Since your guitar has been sitting in the closet for 20 years, you probably don't have the built up crud that the other respondees are talking about cleaning.
I'd first try lubricating all moving parts with a light machine or motor oil. Do the changer first as that may be all you need. Put a drop between each changer finger, then set the guitar vertically on the tuning key end and put a drop between each raise and lower arm and another on each rivet. Work all the pedals and knee levers several times to see if that will free it up. |
|
|
|
John Hawkins
From:
Onalaska, Tx. on Lake Livingston * R.I.P.
|
Posted 4 Dec 2002 12:25 pm
|
|
Harry ,
Although this may not work initially --! After you clean up the changer to your satisfaction , go either to Radio Shack or a local computer repair shop and buy yourself a can of compressed air ( make sure it states it does not have a moisture content .)
That's why I recomend a computer shop as they will only have a non - moisture type brand of canned air normally. From time to time clean out your changer by using this spray can before you next oil the changer . This maintaince will help prevent dust and crud builtup in the changer . I will not prevent it 100% !! A good cleaning and lubing top and bottom once every 6 mo. or so will make a big difference in the way your steel plays
Good luck !!
John [This message was edited by John Hawkins on 04 December 2002 at 02:01 PM.] |
|
|
|
Harry Busby
From:
Wroxeter, Ontario, Canada
|
Posted 5 Dec 2002 6:05 am
|
|
Thanks for all the responses. And also to the private emails. I tried the search link and there is indeed alot of information on this site if you just take the time to look for it. In the future I'll try to remember to use the search button first. The heads up on WD-40 was just in time as I had bought a can but hadn't used it yet. Will be back with more questions if I run into more trouble.
Thanks
Harry Busby |
|
|
|
Gil Berry
From:
Westminster, CA, USA
|
Posted 5 Dec 2002 4:53 pm
|
|
| And, Harry, be sure there are no string ends jammed in the changer. Sometimes they find their way down there and can do exactly what you say is happening with your banjo. |
|
|
|
Jim Bob Sedgwick
From:
Clinton, Missouri USA
|
Posted 15 Dec 2002 7:51 pm
|
|
| Guys, Just my opinion. WD-40 is getting a bad rap. It is a great cleaner for the changer, but not a great lubricant. It won't hurt the lacquer. Just be sure and blow it out with compressed air, prior to lubricating the guitar. I have done this for years and have had NO problems. Just don't try to use it as a lubricant as it will gunk up the changer. |
|
|
|
