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Author Topic:  Stiff Lever - string tension question
Gerald Shaw

 

From:
Florida, USA
Post  Posted 30 Mar 2013 12:49 pm    
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I've added a 3rd pull to my RKR, a full tone drop of string 10. The other 2 pulls are the standard full tone drop of string 10 with a half stop, and a half step drop on string 9. I wasn't expecting the extra pull to cause the lever to get so stiff. My understanding is that it takes less effort to move a wound string then an unwound string (but I may be wrong). I know when I added a pull to raise string 1 a full step, it added a good bit of stiffness, I thought that was down to it being a thinner unwound string. but I was surprised at how much the 10th string lower added stiffness.

SO is my understanding of string gauges and the amount of effort required to move them wrong? The thicker the string the less effort will be required to change the pitch. I know on a regular 6 string I can do a whole tone bend with a lot less effort on the low e then the high E. Thanks
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 30 Mar 2013 4:01 pm    
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When you're lowering a string, the string tension is really immaterial because what you're straining against isn't the string, but the lowering spring. If your steel is like most, you can go to a weaker lower-return spring with acceptable results. If your guitar has adjustable springs, then you can probably adjust them out, but most makers use just one type of spring. Note: Different (lighter) springs often give better results than adjusting the tension of stiff ones...one reason I'm not crazy about adjustable return springs.

Other things can sometimes be done, also, like adding helper springs, or going to lower string guages, or changing the pull ratios. Mostly, it's trial and error - tempered with how much you know about basic mechanics.
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richard burton


From:
Britain
Post  Posted 30 Mar 2013 11:46 pm    
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On a Carter that I once owned, I decided to have a wound sixth string instead of a plain.

I drop the sixth string a full tone, and a wound string needs a lot more changer finger movement than a plain string, which means that the lower return spring was being stretched to its limit.

The more you pull an extension spring, the progressively harder it gets to pull, so I solved the stiff lever problem by putting a much longer extension spring on the sixth string lower.

It's difficult to describe, but imagine that you get one regular lower return spring, and clamp one hook in a vice.



Now hook a spring balance to the other end of the lower return spring, and pull the spring until you get a reading of, say, 15 pounds.

Hold it at 15 pounds and measure the length of the spring.

Now pull the spring another 1/2 inch, and take a reading off the spring balance.

Take the spring balance off and hook 4 more springs to the original spring.

Hook the spring balance to the end spring, and pull the springs out until you get a reading of 15 pounds.

Take a measurement of the total length of the extended springs.

Now extend another 1/2 inch, and take a reading off the spring balance.

I can guarantee that the second spring balance reading will be far less than the first reading, and thus relates to far less knee lever pressure required when longer lower return springs are used on a PSG
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Richard Damron


From:
Gallatin, Tennessee, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 31 Mar 2013 6:44 am    
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Gerald -

Richard Burton has posted an abbreviated, but excellent tutorial on spring rates. Further, and with regards your last paragraph, if you use an interactive application to be found here: -

http://liutaiomottola.com/

you'll find that the commonly used guages for an E9th tuning, for example, are roughly at the same tension, when tuned to pitch - in the neighborhood of 25 to 30 pounds.

Donny Hinson's observation ties in nicely with Richard's presentation. To reiterate, string tension varies little across the instrument. The culprit is the return spring.

Richard
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Jim Palenscar

 

From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
Post  Posted 31 Mar 2013 7:40 am    
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Also consider where you are hooking up the sting in question. It will require less tension and more throw to hook the lower up closer to the cross shaft on the bellcrank and further from the changer axle on the changer if possible. Lowering the 10th string a full tone requires far less travel than the same throw on the 5th string consequently you should be able to take advantage of relatively long throw settings on the 10th string to help achieve your goal.
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