Sitar like overtones on an MSA 12...Help?

Larry Otis · From: Napa, California, USA

So I am kind of new but gigging regularly with PSG. I have an older rebuilt by Tom Bradshaw MSA 12 string extended E9. The 3rd, 4th, and 5th strings have this kind of sitar like ring that I can't block. I have looked closely at the changer for any grooves or weirdness that might cause this. Any suggestions appreciated!

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

Push the affected strings to the side on the changer finger and if it goes away you will know where the culprit is (after changing the strings of course)

Carl Kilmer · From: East Central, Illinois

Hi Larry, have you changed the strings lately, or tried
a different brand. When ever I get that twangy sound,
it always ends up being from a bad set of new strings
or ones that I used for too long. Ocasionly a new set
will do that and I have replace all the unwound ones. Shocked

My problems were usually with Ernie Ball or George-L.

Carl
_________________
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal

Ross Shafer · From: Petaluma, California

I've run into this with open strings couple of times and got rid of the buzz by turning the nut roller a few degrees.

Peter Siegel · From: Belmont, CA, USA

Larry, welcome to the dark side...

peter S

Tom Bradshaw · From: Walnut Creek, California, USA

There are several potential causes for the string "buzz" on any pedal steel. Here are a few causes and solutions in their order of probability:

1. Cause: A grove has been created on the top of the bridge's fulcrum piece, making the seating of the string uneven, thus causing excessive vibration at that point. Solution: Remove the string and lightly sand off the irregular surface of the bridge, and then polish to a consistent surface.

2. Cause: A nut roller is vibrating from side to side. Determine this by holding them firmly as a string is picked. Solution: Decrease the tolerance between the roller and its support bracket (a risky task). Shimming it would be ideal, but obtaining shim stock small enough to slip between the roller and its side supports is virtually impossible. A solution that works but is difficult (if possible at all) is to use a metal punch and fracture the metal side supports so delicately as to force those side supports to end up closer to the nut roller’s sides. This procedure is risky and typically leads to preventing the roller nut from turning (if fractured too much). If that happens, the roller nut then has to be removed and those fractured side supports filed down sufficiently to permit the nut to turn again. Unfortunately, the filing process is usually too excessive and the nut roller returns to vibrating, perhaps even more than it originally did. However, if you are gentle enough with your punch and hammer, you can get lucky and end up with a tolerance so close that you discover the vibration has been corrected and the roller nut turns freely. Once done, don't put oil on the roller. Oil collects dust and in time will prevent the roller from turning. Use a silicone-based lubricant (Tri-Flo is perfect).

3. Cause: The string used is so constructed as to have its wrapped end (ball end) extend too far from the ball, permitting the string to be held slightly away from being fully seated on the bridge. Solution: Change brands to obtain a string with a short wrap around the ball end. Or, slip another ball onto the string and attach the string to its mooring by using that ball. This effectively removes the end of the wrap farther from the top of the bridge’s arc. Achieving this will depend on the manner in which the string can be attached to the back side of the bridge's fulcrum piece.

4. Cause: A worn out string or one that is bent (but you can't see the bend because it is stretched tightly). Solution: Change the string or clean it thoroughly, using an oily rag and rubbing the string briskly along its full length. This procedure will also lengthen the life of the string (notice the amount of gunk that comes off onto the rag!).

5. Cause: Nut roller mystery. As indicated previously in this topic, simply turning the nut roller a bit can eliminate the buzz.

6. Cause: String mystery. Solution: Take the string off, and then put it back on. For reasons unknown, the buzz sound may disappear.

Other solutions may exist. There are just the ones I've discovered.

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

Tom's suggestions are excellent, and they've been repeated here many times. One other cause of this quirky problem is a changer finger that does not have a proper radius. Some players have been known to just try to remove (sand away) a groove in the top of the finger, only to make a small flat, or almost flat, area on the top of the changer. Once that is done, nothing will take away the "singing" until the finger is re-radiused, or replaced.

It only takes a few seconds of clumsy sanding to ruin a changer finger! And if emery paper is used while the finger is on the guitar, you can bet that some of the emery powder will find it's way into the works, and also cause premature wear...unless you mask the area properly, and clean properly before you unmask.

If you take a changer apart, and see grooves in the changer axle, it's pretty good evidence that someone has been "working" with emery paper or Scotchbrite where they shouldn't have.

Joseph Meditz · From: Sierra Vista, AZ

You might want to turn off reverb and, if you are using a tube amp, try a transistor amp. Some jangle can come from the reverb or the amp.

Forum Index > Pedal Steel		Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic

All times are GMT - 8 Hours	Jump to: