Need Gibson BR-9 Plate or Tracing - PROJECT COMPLETED-Photos

[Daniel Flanigan]

Regarding the knobs, it might be worth it to search out “vintage radio knobs” on eBay. That’s actually how I found my pair. I paid $28 when someone else was parting out the same knobs for $80.

Yes, radio knobs can make for some real neat guitar control knobs.

One thing to keep an eye out for with radio knobs is Radium lume pips , which is something you see occasionally, especially if they came from a radio alarm clock. It would of course be up to the individual if that's something that would bother you, I for one wear Radium dialed watches in my daily rotation, but it's something to be aware of.


Another thing to keep in mind is that some radio knobs fit a different size pot shaft than a guitar knob, if I'm not mistaken.

[Tony Oresteen]

Hey, Tony, I found some original BR-9 knobs on Reverb. Kinda pricey for what they are, but they're worth takin' a look at.

https://reverb.com/item/81964387-1947-1 ... knobs-p233

I saw those Dan but had already bought a cream set.

My second BR-9 arrived! I will start a new thread on it.

[Daniel Flanigan]

Nice, Tony. Those BR-9s are sure neat. It's really a crime that I've never owned one, I really need to pick one up one of these days. I've seen a Reverb seller that has a couple BR-9 stripped bodies for around $200 or so, but every time I consider buying one for a project, I figure that after buying all the parts it would probably cost about the same as buying a complete original one. I'll be looking forward to seeing your next project.

[Tony Oresteen]

Dan,

I understand. Usually buying a husk ends up costing more. I buy them for two reasons:

1. They are rare and deserve a restoration. Or

2. I plan on modding it and will be buying parts I want in the guitar any way so no need to pay a premium for original parts.

My first BR-9 was a husk and I knew I would be modding it.

The BR-9 I just bought had an original case and the BR-9 was in great shape except for the tuners so I grabbed it.

Sometimes you have to pay the piper upfront.

[Steve Rosko]

I just picked up one of these. Those of you that ground the bridge, do you do anything more than just laying the ground wire under the bridge? (I understand the part about hiding the wire by drilling a hole). In other words, it’s not physically attached, right?

[Jack Hanson]

In other words, it’s not physically attached, right?

That's how I've done it with literally dozens of rescues and rebuilds. Merely compressing the ground wire into the body beneath the bridge with the tightened wood screws has worked every time.

[Jack Hanson]

...I figure that after buying all the parts it would probably cost about the same as buying a complete original one.

In my opinion, that would be a fair assessment. But if one uses premium components and parts, and pays attention to the details, one can easily obtain an instrument every bit the equal -- if not altogether superior to the original -- in sound, playability and performance, that should be perfectly serviceable for generations.