converting a D-10 to single with pad?

James Morehead · Post by **James Morehead** » 28 Jun 2011 10:54 am

Pro II's were the intro to "barrels behind two-hole pullers" undercarrage. "The Professional" were the last of the rack & barrel. Singlenecks with rack & barrels were nothing more than a singleneck Professional, though they lacked a "Professional" logo. They usually only had a Shobud logo. "Pro I" logos came when the racks were dropped for the two hole puller system. But then that "concept" will likely be overshadowed during transitional periods.

James Morehead · Post by **James Morehead** » 28 Jun 2011 11:03 am

Michael Yahl wrote:Yes, my Professional is a R&B built in 10/1972 #2594. From what I've seen is that there are no definitive lines as to when the R&B's ceased and the 2 holes started. they were intermixed for at least a years time of production.

James, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

You are pretty much right on, Micheal. '73 was when the LDGs and Pro II's came out with the single/single changer and barrels behind two-hole pullers system. A Pro II is identical to a Professional, except the rack & barrel vs. two hole pullers, and the logos. The LDGs changed as quick as mid '74 to nylon tuners. And as you know, the LDG changed until the end of Shobud, into the Super Pro era. Many do not realise, the ultimate LDG is the first year('73) roundfront with single/single changer with barrels behind two hole pullers. The Pro II's of '73-'74 are also holy grail, to those who understand.

Alan Brookes · Post by **Alan Brookes** » 28 Jun 2011 11:20 am

Ironically, I've been thinking of removing the pad from an SD10 and building a C6 neck into that space.

By the way, if anyone removes the C6 neck from a D10, make sure to keep the parts. They're very valuable.

Jerry Overstreet · Post by **Jerry Overstreet** » 28 Jun 2011 11:47 am

HI Terry. I think Jim P. answered your question in one of the first replies. He is an experienced player and steel guitar mechanic so I would trust his knowledge.

I would not be concerned about all the noise whether you should do it or not. That's up to you. Your guitar. I do know this, if you find a guitar that you really like, don't let it go. Another one might not have the feel, tone, response etc of the one you have now. Customize it to suit your needs.

If it were me, I'd just do whatever I wanted to do. Disassembly is rather straight forward. Keep the removed parts altogether. If you ever want to go back to original config, you can. Will get you more bucks restored to orig. if you ever decide to sell it too.

Good luck with your project.

Post by **Dave Mudgett** » 28 Jun 2011 12:35 pm

My opinion - nobody knows whether or not removing the C6 neck from that particular steel will change its sound noticeably. We can all venture reasonable guesses, but I don't think anybody really knows for sure. My experience in working on guitars of various sorts (6-string, steel) is that sometimes it's not always obvious what changes to a real good guitar will, to coin a phrase, 'let the genie out of the bottle'. I've made some common-sense changes that, in hindsight, I wished I hadn't done. If one makes a change and it doesn't work out, it isn't always irreversible. My take, YMMV.

Which is why, I think, the conversation also included other pragmatic aspects of making such a change, which are, IMO, significantly easier to qualify and/or quantify.

BTW - Terry has been on this board for quite a while, and it has not escaped my (and perhaps others') notice that he has traded quite a few guitars in the last several years. I also note from his post that he is concerned about the cost of making a new case as an alternative method to lighten the load. So I assume that concerns about money and resale value are high on his list of priorities. And thus, I don't consider discussion of these other issues to be 'noise', but of course, that's up to him.

Larry Bressington · Post by **Larry Bressington** » 28 Jun 2011 3:16 pm

Tone wont change!

Ray Anderson · Post by **Ray Anderson** » 28 Jun 2011 3:39 pm

Don't know if it will change the tone or not but I'm fixing to find out, going to do the same thing myself. But I'll be sure to warn everyone if it does. BTW are c6 changer fingers and such, the same as e9?

Mark Eaton · Post by **Mark Eaton** » 28 Jun 2011 4:38 pm

My 18 lb. reduction of Lloyd Green's guitar post aside, whether or not that's a completely accurate total based on Terry's model, I wouldn't do it either.

If it were me, I'd look for a nice clean LDG instead.

I've brought this up on other threads - and I haven't once received an answer to the following question:

There are a lot of Sho-Buds that have been restored, refinished, and updated - they look great, but they are also not the steel guitar equivalent of an all original stock '57 Chevy, and it seems to be "okay" to restore these Sho-Buds. But if the guitar in question is a 1950's non-pedal classic like a Stringmaster, it is considered generally in poor taste to restore, refinish, and update one of those guitars.

Why is this?

Terry Sneed · Post by **Terry Sneed** » 28 Jun 2011 5:18 pm

Fellow forum members, I owe all of you an appoligy. I don't own a 73 round front pro II with 2 hole pullers.

I was refering to the 73 round front Pro II that's on the forum for sell. The seller is wanting to trade his Pro II for an SD-10. I was thinking of making a trade with him, my Rains SD-10 for his 73 Sho-bud Pro II. I already own an 84 (I think) Sho-bud Pro II that has aluminum necks, a real unique steel guitar, and it has that great Sho-bud tone. It's not that I don't play any C6th, I do, I just don't play a whole lot. I love the C6th for Blusey tunes, don't like Jazz at all. Anyways, back to the subject. I have a lightweight dolly that I use to get my Pro II from here to yonder. It's just getting it in and out of my vehicle, that's the main problem. Like I said, if I could afford a split case, I'd probly make the trade with the seller, and not even think about taking the back neck off.
Can you get most of the popular changes with a 73 Pro II with 2 hole pullers, and I assume it's a single raise and single lower?
Thanks to everbody for your help and advice.
Terry

Jerry Overstreet · Post by **Jerry Overstreet** » 28 Jun 2011 5:24 pm

Terry, Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question, but I don't think you owe anybody an apology. Best of Luck with whatever decision you make.

Brint Hannay · Post by **Brint Hannay** » 28 Jun 2011 8:01 pm

If it's two hole pullers with barrels behind them, even though the changer is single-single you can have as many changes as you want, subject only to the limitation of fitting everything into the undercarriage real estate. For a given string, the one raise or lower pull rod can have multiple barrels on it--you just need to have the hardware to pull them.

James Morehead · Post by **James Morehead** » 29 Jun 2011 4:54 am

Brother Brint speaketh the truth---you are limited only by your imagination. With barrels, you can be as creative as most other changers. Perhaps, advanced jazz players would probably find some limitations, I suspect. But for your average player, barrels are way plenty-o. JMHO

Terry Sneed · Post by **Terry Sneed** » 29 Jun 2011 2:43 pm

Can I ask one more question about the 73 Pro II with 2 hole pullers and barrels please? James or anyone else, that has experience with these steel guitars.
If the guitar is in real good shape, are the pedals and knee levers as smooth and accurate as any other Sho-bud?
Thanks to all.
Terry

James Morehead · Post by **James Morehead** » 29 Jun 2011 4:05 pm

Terry Sneed wrote:
If the guitar is in real good shape, are the pedals and knee levers as smooth and accurate as any other Sho-bud?

Absolutely. Like any guitar, lack of maintenance will take it's toll on playability.

James Morehead · Post by **James Morehead** » 29 Jun 2011 4:25 pm

I would add to my above comment, I consider the Pro II roundfront, with single/single changer, and two hole pullers with barrels, the cream of shobud guitars.

That model has beautiful wood and design, tremendous classic shobud tone, very playable, and virtually unlimited copedant setup. And no pot metal. Unless your a weirdo like me, who happens to be nuts over fingertips and perms, the Pro II is THE bomb in the shobud line up.

Terry Sneed · Post by **Terry Sneed** » 29 Jun 2011 7:15 pm

Thanks a bunch James! I'm thinkin seriously about trading with Johnny. Your last post put the icing on the cake, and made it plum larapin

I've always wanted a round front Sho bud. Can't get much purtier than that.
Terry

Post by **Dave Mudgett** » 29 Jun 2011 8:03 pm

Oh - I see which guitar you're talking about now. Yes, that is 'da bomb in the Sho Bud world, 'fer sure. Killer, and about as gorgeous as I've ever seen. Consider yourself lucky that I'm not in a position to buy that one right now, and I'll guarantee you I wouldn't even think about taking off that C6 changer.

Skip Edwards · Post by **Skip Edwards** » 29 Jun 2011 9:28 pm

Ok... I just caught on which gtr it is, too.
Please...don't mess with that one.
It's perfect just as it is.

Terry Sneed · Post by **Terry Sneed** » 5 Jul 2011 4:16 pm

Dave, and Skip, rest assured. I ain't gonna mess with the C neck!

Oh, it was suppose to ship today. Ya'll done got me excited about gettin that Bud!

Terry

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converting a D-10 to single with pad?

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