Strings - same set, different tunings?

Lap steels, resonators, multi-neck consoles and acoustic steel guitars

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Frank Nims
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Joined: 25 Sep 2011 7:53 pm
Location: Illinois, USA

Strings - same set, different tunings?

Post by Frank Nims »

How important is it to have the "correct" gauge strings for a given tuning?

I've heard people say their strings would "explode" if tuned up a step.

But these string makers would apparently not agree:
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David DeLoach
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Re: Strings - same set, different tunings?

Post by David DeLoach »

These are different tunings than those you listed, but I use these gauges for various tunings...

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Glenn Wilde
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Re: Strings - same set, different tunings?

Post by Glenn Wilde »

I use similar gauges on my Dobro and Republic Tricone, and use all those tunings and more with them, they do break occasionally but usually when they're already old.
Interestingly, that big sixth string has never broke on me, going from C# or D all the way up to G is pretty impressive.
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Fred Treece
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Re: Strings - same set, different tunings?

Post by Fred Treece »

I wouldn’t try all of those tunings on my round neck, but any good solid square neck should be able to handle them. Even if they all “work” on your instrument, some tunings will probably sound and feel better than others based on scale length (string tension) and tonal response.
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Jerry Overstreet
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Re: Strings - same set, different tunings?

Post by Jerry Overstreet »

For lap steel primary tuning Dobro G:
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Michael Kiese
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Re: Strings - same set, different tunings?

Post by Michael Kiese »

Aloha,

Matching your preferred string tension with a given pitch and scale length, is the most important aspect of playing any stringed instrument. Ultimately THAT will determine the gauge of string you use.

As steel players, we can't be lazy with our strings. We have far too many tunings and scale lengths to deal with. Pre-made sets just can't cover it all.

Physics are Physics. Strings are strings. You can't get around it.

I suggest using a string tension calculator and go down the rabbit hole and buy a bunch of individual strings so you can make your own custom string sets. Experiment, measure, record your findings. Repeat. That's the only way to hone in on what you like and what works for you.

After going down the rabbit hole myself, I have found that I like 20-25ftlbs of force per string at any scale length. Some people like 30 ftlbs.

More tension = more volume, but less sustain. Less tension = less volume, more sustain. Go too much either way and you get little of both. There is also an ideal tension to help harmonics ring out.

If I'm only going to keep one tuning on a steel (like a multiple neck guitar), I'll do my best to keep them all the same tension. e.g. every string close to 20ftlbs as possible.

That said, I began to see the benefit of switching between C6, A6, and B11 when I perform live. I only bring 1 lapsteel to gigs. Carrying lots of heavy stuff ain't worth it.

In order to accommodate going between C6, A6, and B11, I created a custom set for each scale length (pretty much 22.5" and 24.5"). That involves keeping all the strings between 20ftlbs and 25ftlbs at all times in all 3 tunings.

With physics, there are no solutions. Only tradeoffs. You can't have it all. Just pick the most important targets for you and adjust fire.

That's pretty much it. Hope that helped!

Enjoy!
Aloha,

Mike K

🤙🏽 🤙🏽 🤙🏽 🌴 🌴 🌴

Rickenbacher ACE (my #1), Rickenbacher A25 Frypan, Rickenbacher Bakelite (Post War), 7 string Rickenbacher Bakelite (Pre War), 6 string 1937 Epiphone Electar, 7 string 1937 Epiphone Electar, 8 string Jan Van der Donck Frypan, 1955 Q8 Fender Stringmaster, 1950 Supro w/ Valco pup, 1961 Supro w/ Valco pup, 1957 National New Yorker.
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