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Post new topic Fender 1000 Pedal Steel Late 50s - Sea Foam green - $3,000
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Author Topic:  Fender 1000 Pedal Steel Late 50s - Sea Foam green - $3,000
Danny Shoemaker

 

From:
Texas, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jun 2024 7:35 am    
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This late 50s Fender 1000 was redone in its original sea foam green as the tuner footprints reveal. Original corn cob knobs, and the janky electronics were done by Tom Oatley here in Austin. It really sparkles.

The more rare 10 pedal option is in great shape and all the connecting cables are included, along with a waterproof SKB case that’s just slightly too small for the body. I have no case for this, but would pack it in a thick layer of bubble wrap In a separate box.

Gilmour played this same model for Dark Side, and like he did, I removed the pedals, but they were working when they were removed about 6 years ago.

Beautiful piece of history with nice sustain.

Drive to Austin to pick it up and I’ll Plek your guitar for 50% off while you enjoy the city. Local pickup certainly preferred.

$3000.00 plus free shipping in the continental US. Includes finger picks and heavy stainless steel bar.

Also selling a Diamond Memory Lane Jr. Pedal, T-Rex Gristle King Pedal (tube screamer circuit plus clean boost) VooDoo Lab Power Supply, Pedaltrain Junior with case, and George L Cables.


















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C Dixon

 

From:
Duluth, GA USA
Post  Posted 13 Jun 2024 7:52 am    
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Mr Danny,

Could you make just one more Photo. Remove the Head Covers. So I can see; if the strings are going; over a rod? Thank you Sir.

And may Jesus bless you and yours, always. AMEN!

C.

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Tim Whitlock


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jun 2024 8:25 am    
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C Dixon wrote:
Could you make just one more Photo. Remove the Head Covers. So I can see; if the strings are going; over a rod?
C.


Carl, since the nut is not a roller nut, I think it's safe to assume the bridge is not a roller bridge. Definitely not the later cam style saddles either.
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C Dixon

 

From:
Duluth, GA USA
Post  Posted 13 Jun 2024 11:50 am    
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Thanks Tim. I understand that. However, when I bought the 400 single Fender 8; with 6 pedals in the early 50's. And the rod caused breakage; on the thin Strings. Especially, when Ralph Mooney invented: the High G# to A string. And some Fender's; that had that problem: they dropped the Key from E to D. But, I didn't want that.

But later, "Speedy West" SG player (who was working at Fender) went all over the nation; giving roller Bridges. And they gave me one; that helped. But still too early breakage. And that is why Fender: used the SHO-Bud channel's. Where the channel, IS the Bridge Exclamation That ALL SG's now have.

And that was the answer for the problem of early breakage Very Happy Laughing . And I complimented Shot; for inventing that "Answer" Exclamation . Bless his heart. He WAS great when comes to PSG's. Until Ron Lashley came to Buddy Emmons. Oh well...

I hope this Guitar sells soon. And, take care, Danny Laughing

C.

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Tim Whitlock


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jun 2024 12:08 pm    
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From the photos it looks like a straight bar bridge, but a closer photo would clarify. The shiny aluminum frame says this is a '57 or '58, as Fender went to the black frame in '59. The stock bridge for those years would be the straight bar, unless it was replaced later as, Carl mentioned. I had to tune my 1000 down to D9 because of the string breakage from the bar bridge and higher tension from the long scale. I like the color! Good luck with your sale!
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Harry Izzo

 

From:
New York, USA
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2024 1:09 pm    
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I had a 400 in the mid 60'sand the string breakage was bad. I tuned it to D9 and put heavier strings on and that seemed to work pretty well. Love those old Fenders.
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 20 Jun 2024 5:17 pm    
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The bridge rod will wear and develop grooves, especially on the plain strings. (This WILL lead to excess string breakage!) Luckily, the rod can usually be turned over to expose a like-new side for the strings to go over. It also helps to add a tiny drop of oil where each string crosses the bridge, and that will prevent peremature wear and breakage of the plain strings. I tuned both my original and the one I have now to a D-major with the E & C# chromatics on top. (I found the lower major voicings far more useful than trying to have a 7th and 9th in the open tuning.) If you feel you need those other notes, you can get them with slants or add pedals or levers.
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