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Post new topic Adapter for different size leg studs
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Author Topic:  Adapter for different size leg studs
Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 31 Jan 2023 8:41 am    
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Now that I have added a pedal and vertical knee to my BMI S-10, I need to figure out how to get my light legs with 1/2-13 threads to fit on the BMI, whose legs appear to have a 5/8-11 thread. The only threaded inserts I could find with the (supposedly) correct threads were E-Z Loks. I acquired these, but was hesitant to use them: that red locktite is NOT easy to get off and I hate to make this permanent if there is another option. As it turns out, they do not fit into the BMI endplate threads at all (nor into a 5/8-11 standard nut). A heli-coil insert with the correct threads does start to go in, but with great difficulty (oddly it screws into the 5/8-11 nut easily by hand).

I am woefully underinformed on all this, but I am guessing that both of these products are meant to repair worn and loose threads-not adapt thread sizes-and therefore are supposed to be overly tight and require force and a tool to insert (they both are designed to take a more or less specialized tool). My threads are perfectly fine, so I really don't want to assault them this way. What I am looking for is a simple sleeve adapter that can be inserted and removed. I know such a thing exists out in the wild, because my desk microphone boom came with one for a shock-mount. It screws easily in and out by hand. But this has a different thread size. (I am trying to reach the original manufacturer of that part through On-Stage, but I suspect that will not go far.)

Any ideas? I have scoured dozens of parts web sites (Zoro, McMaster Carr, Global Industrial, etc., etc.) with no success. Amazon seems to sell the right type of piece, but only in metric sizes.

Thanks.
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Bobby D. Jones

 

From:
West Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 1 Feb 2023 7:54 am    
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Is there a special tool with a slot in end, Included with the heli-coil set?
Which is designed to twist and pull the heli-coil from the front and it will just follow the threads.

If you try to screw the heli-coil like a bolt, (Especially into softer aluminum) It will swell the heli-coil and it will lock and not want to turn into the hole threads.

If you want to remove the heli-coil later, Heat will destroy the holding power of the Lock-tite.
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Norman Evans


From:
Tennessee
Post  Posted 1 Feb 2023 2:57 pm    
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Will a 5/8-11 bolt screw into the guitar. If it will, you could take 4 bolts or maybe 2 if the threads are long enough to a machine shop and have them make you adapters. There will only be about .015 of metal between the 2 thread sizes, so they wouldn't take a lot of stress.

By the way, I worked about 40 years as a machinist.
Regards, Norm
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Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 1 Feb 2023 7:39 pm    
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Yeah, fashioning an adapter from a bolt had come up in an earlier thread on this subject, and that's what I have been leaning towards. There are several small machine shops nearby so I should be able to get someone to do it.
Thanks for the advice folks.
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Bobby D. Jones

 

From:
West Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2023 5:38 am    
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How are the threaded studs placed in the legs?

A reducer with 5/8" 11 OD and 1/2" X 13 ID would make a rather thin undependable connection between leg and aluminum end plate of the guitar.

If there is a hole threaded into the aluminum leg and a 1/2' -13 steel stud or set screw installed. And easily removed, Like light weight GFI legs.

A piece of 5/8"-11 bolt or All thread, Could be turned down to 1/2" and threaded 1/2"-13. Screwed into the leg with a 5/8"-11 stud to screw into the guitar. would make a strong connection. Loc-Tite in leg.

If the legs have pressed in inserts, Would take more machine work and fitting to install properly.
Good Luck on this project.

GFI ALUMINUM LEG STUD
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Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2023 1:43 pm    
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Thanks for all the very good advice, Bobby and Norm. I'm gonna have to think on this.
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Jimmie Hudson

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2023 2:28 pm     here is the part you need 5 in a pack
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Dan Beller-McKenna wrote:
Thanks for all the very good advice, Bobby and Norm. I'm gonna have to think on this.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/3722/90259A163
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Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2023 2:46 pm    
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Thanks Jimmie. I have those, but they seem to be meant to cut thread, not to screw into existing threads. Which is to say they do not go into the 5/8-11 thread that is in the BMI endplate.
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Jimmie Hudson

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2023 3:23 pm     tt
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Dan Beller-McKenna wrote:
Thanks Jimmie. I have those, but they seem to be meant to cut thread, not to screw into existing threads. Which is to say they do not go into the 5/8-11 thread that is in the BMI endplate.
I use them all the time to convert the threads . They do screw into the threads . just stiff so they don't come out easy.
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Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2023 4:07 pm    
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Interesting. Well, to be fair, I have the EZ-Lock ones: maybe they have a different pitch to the thread (but they are sold and packaged as 1/2-13 ID and 5/8-11 OD).

SO you use the McMaster Carr ones for this purpose, converting a steel with 5/8-11 threads to accept a leg with 1/2-13 threads?
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Jimmie Hudson

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2023 6:08 pm     yes
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Dan Beller-McKenna wrote:
Interesting. Well, to be fair, I have the EZ-Lock ones: maybe they have a different pitch to the thread (but they are sold and packaged as 1/2-13 ID and 5/8-11 OD).

SO you use the McMaster Carr ones for this purpose, converting a steel with 5/8-11 threads to accept a leg with 1/2-13 threads?
Yes and they also offer the 3/4 -10 to 1/2 x 13 adapter for the old Fender steels.
I have had a few that I had to sand down the length of the insert to make it short enough to go all the way into the thread on the endplate.
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Jimmie Hudson

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2023 6:10 pm     also
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Also if you want to remove the lock tight. Just put them in Lacquer Thinner overnight. It will come off easy then.
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Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2023 6:18 pm    
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Thanks for all this, Jimmie. I ordered a set and will give them a try.
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Jimmie Hudson

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 2 Feb 2023 6:31 pm     ttt
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Dan Beller-McKenna wrote:
Thanks for all this, Jimmie. I ordered a set and will give them a try.
You are welcome. Hope they work for you well.
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Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 5 Feb 2023 4:41 am    
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Well....
Got the parts from McMaster Carr, which are identical to the ones I had. I removed the locktite on the threads, but had the same negative results. It would take excessive force to get them into the BMI threads, and I would never apply that kind of force to a guitar I cared about. I'm going to see if I can get some of the studs Don Fritsche uses on the BMI legs and replace the 1/2-13 studs on these light legs with those.
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