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Author Topic:  Too many rods??
Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 29 Jun 2022 4:30 am    
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I've switched things a bit over the years (or, at least, had things switched) but, lying awake this morning, I mentally counted how many pull-rods I should have, given my current 8+9 setup.

My mental tally came to 43 and, when I checked my chart, I was pleased to see that I was spot-on.

However, I've just counted the rods at the changer and was more than surprised to count 50!

There may be the odd compensator, of course (although I don't ever remember having any fitted), but I can't wait to flip the guitar and trace the 'missing' seven rods!

It'll be a couple of days yet; I'm in post-surgery and I have weight-limits to observe.

Has anyone else encountered such a disparity? The guitar - I bought it new - is twenty-two years old in October.
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Dale Rottacker


From:
Walla Walla Washington, USA
Post  Posted 29 Jun 2022 5:52 am    
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Think I have 33 on E9th... but not at the guitar to do an actual count. I would suspect you'd have more in a D13th set up, (More pedals and levers). Now I gotta go count... Thanks Roger.
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*2021 MSA Legend, "Jolly Rancher" D10 10x9
*2021 Rittenberry, "The Concord" D10 9x9
*1977 Blue Sho-Bud Pro 3 Custom 8x6
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Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 29 Jun 2022 6:41 am    
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I turned it over on the floor and made some notes:

There are 51 bell-cranks under there. In two places, I found one B/C pulling two adjacent strings!

What with the impenetrable blackness of lubricant along with the black flocking, it's difficult to see what's going on.

The Counterforce unit has its own rod (rods?)

The only interloper I could find was a third B/C and rod (connected to the 10th) on my P1 (C pedal). I suspect that I once asked for the E-F# raise to be added on 10 but, try as I might, I can't retune the nylon - all it does is raise the pitch of the un-pedaled string.

There are a few cases of B/Cs being used to link a knee-lever assembly to a cross-rod located a few inches away.

The mystery deepens. I can only spend so long bending my back looking.

I want to switch my LKL1 (now it lowers my Es) with LKL2 (currently raising 1.,2 + 7). LKL2 requires such a long 'throw' that it's hard not to brush against LKL1 while engaging it. Switching them will remove that obstacle and LKL1 (the 'new' one) can have all the room it wants to fully raise the three strings. (Thanks to Bob at GFI for that clever suggestion!)

Dale: my impending 12 string guitar with 7+6 will have 33 pulls (don't know if compensators will be needed yet).

That's economical compared to my Emmons D10. Looking at the tangle of parts under there (the 'shared' bell-cranks, etc.) makes me wonder if the guitar needs a full strip-down and rebuild. What might that cost?
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Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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Bill Duncan


From:
Lenoir, North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 29 Jun 2022 7:06 am     Re: Too many rods??
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[quote="Roger Rettig"]I've switched things a bit over the years (or, at least, had things switched) but, lying awake this morning, I mentally counted how many pull-rods I should have, given my current 8+9 setup.

I read an interview of Merle Travis who was asked how many watts his amp was. He said, "I don't know, I have never counted them".

I have never counted my rods either. Of course, now maybe I will.
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Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 29 Jun 2022 7:46 am    
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One more thing I found under my guitar that I'd forgotten...

Someone, I think it was Dave Robbins, suggested this when I kept breaking the stock Emmons bell-crank on my Es to D# lever. It would fracture close to the cross-rod.

He fitted some sort of link and I can readily see that the new bell-crank is of a heavier gauge than the standard. Whatever it is, I never had the problem again.

Here's a pic of that fitting and another view of the whole contraption.

(Sorry: they're upside-down and one's a bit blurred.)



.
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Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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Russ Wever

 

From:
Kansas City
Post  Posted 29 Jun 2022 6:52 pm    
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Roger . .

The weak part of those bell cranks is the narrower dimension the fold
between the three-sided portion that goes over the cross-shaft and
the 'arm' that has the holes to receive the pull-rods.

I would imagine that the next one to fail would be the one
doing double-duty that pull the rods going to strings #1 & 2.

I've seen this several times before where a stamped
bell crank working two strings has given up.

It appears that the two cranks on your knee-lever linkage
have been replaced with machined aluminum cranks.

Isn't this the steel you had just picked up when
you and I first met in Jacksonville Beach . . ?
~Rw
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Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2022 2:50 am    
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Well remembered, Russ! You and Mark were at the Alhambra and I was driving home from a show in Roanoke. Late-2000: I'd taken delivery of the black D10 while I was in VA but was still using my '98 SD10 Legrande. I stopped by to see your show and had the pleasure of meeting you.

How on earth can you make out what's going on with 1 and 2? That picture isn't very sharp.

Are you aware of anyone producing the aluminum bell-cranks? I wish I had a stash of them! It reminds me of the Pro-111 days with the pot-metal parts that were a constant worry.

That's almost twenty-two years ago. You have been of invaluable help and support to me over the years but I'll never forget how nervous I was when you suggested that I set up my new guitar and play it in front of you!

You couldn't have nicer or more encouraging, though. Thanks for your friendship.
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