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Topic: Legrand 111 - help! |
Roger Rettig
From:
Naples, FL
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Posted 9 May 2022 5:21 am |
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Right in the middle of the photo you'll see a rod with a righ-angle bend pushed through something that resembles a bell-crank, but isn't.
As far as I can tell, this rod is a part of the counterforce mechanism and, as you can see, this is at the changer-end.
I flipped the guitar to change a pull this morning (I still don't know if that's been successful!) and noticed this rod had come adrift from its location. In the pic I've relocated it but, try as I might, I cannot get an E-clip onto it to keep it in place. (I have the right tool, too, and it worked on this morning's job - see the other photo).
The dislocated rod looks the same gauge as all the others, but maybe it isn't.
Any LG3 owners out there who can tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree? I have no idea if the counterforce works, how it works, or even if it was worth the money but I have it, so I live with it.
_________________
Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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George Webb
From:
Mississauga, Ont, CAN
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Posted 9 May 2022 6:04 am
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Hi Roger,
Just looked at mine. That is the rod for the compensator. Mine has a much shorter bend length and the standard clip.
Maybe yours had a collar holding it, rather than the clip ... I don't see the clip groove on yours.
Cheers,
George |
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George Webb
From:
Mississauga, Ont, CAN
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Posted 9 May 2022 6:18 am
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Hi again Roger,
As I look at your picture, there's something that looks like a collar fallen down into the cabinet under the 4th string ... ??? |
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Roger Rettig
From:
Naples, FL
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Posted 9 May 2022 6:19 am
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Thanks, George and, you know what??? As soon as I turned the guitar back onto its legs, something fell on the floor - it was a little collar with a screw in it. That has to be what you suggest.
Replacing that should be easy but my other job didn't fare well. I moved the 4th pedal rod from lowering string 5 to lowering string 9 (I had already returned the P4 rod that was lowering the 6th string to F# - now it's only going down to a G).
It works as it should (lowering 6 and 9 a half-step was my aim) but when I engage the new pedal I'm having difficulty getting an exact C# on the 9th - and regardless of what I do at the changer-end, I can't get it to move.
Hmmm - I wonder if the split-tune screw is preventing me tuning it? I will check....
Many thanks, George, for such a quick response. If only life's problems disappeared as quickly! 
_________________
Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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Roger Rettig
From:
Naples, FL
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Posted 9 May 2022 6:23 am
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See my new post above, George.
Wow! You must have good eyes - I've looked at my (admittedly slightly blurry) photo and I can't see the collar!
No matter - it was there and it fell out of the steel thanks to pure gravity.
_________________
Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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Roger Rettig
From:
Naples, FL
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Posted 9 May 2022 6:44 am
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PS: I backed off the 9th string split-tune screw and now everything's in tune.
I'm still disappointed in the effort required to depress P4 with the new change. I'd have expected it to get a bit lighter than before (it used to lower 5 and 6 a whole-step, not to mention pulling the As to Bs on C6th), but I really have to squeeze down on it.
My LeGrande (I bought it new in 2000 - it's done thousands of shows and countless miles) is still, I'm sure, a good instrument and it's in good shape. Aside from the occasional expert maintenance from Buck Reid and Tyler Hall, it's been interfered with too much (like this morning when I was tinkering); I've wanted several changes made over the years and, while I think I now have it almost as I want it, I wish I could get it stripped out and re-rodded so everything is straight and working as efficiently as possible.
It's that, or get a new steel (manufacturers instinctively get this stuff right by virtue of their experience), but that's not a step I want to contemplate. What I'd want would cost $10,000 today.
PS: I DO want to change my C6th P4 to Doug Jernigan's brilliant concept!
_________________
Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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George Webb
From:
Mississauga, Ont, CAN
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Posted 9 May 2022 7:07 am
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Hi Roger,
Glad things are working.
I've enjoyed many of your posts over the years. Must say I'm also glad you are back to playing your guitar.
Cheers,
George |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 9 May 2022 7:10 am
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Looks like the spring for the 9th string is tighter (more tension) than the other springs. That would make the pedal or knee lever harder to press.
I had to loosen that spring on my GFI. The factory adjusts it as tight as it can go so there is a definite feel stop for the 2nd string 1/2 tone lower.
I added the 7th string raise to that lever (RKR) and had to loosen the spring as it was too stiff with the added pull. I lost some of the 2nd string "feel" but it was a compromise.
_________________
GFI Ultra Keyless S-10 with pad (Black of course) TB202 amp, Hilton VP, Steelers Choice sidekick seat, SIT Strings
Cakewalk by Bandlab and Studio One V4.6 pro DAWs, MOTU Ultralite MK5 recording interface unit |
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Roger Rettig
From:
Naples, FL
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Posted 9 May 2022 7:22 am
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Thanks, Jack - I'll check that spring as you suggest.
As a matter of interest, what 'raise' did you add to your RKR? To G or to G#?
I'm now lowering 6 to a G (along with lowering 9 to C#) on my new P4; I worked out that it'll give me a m7b5 on the low strings, something I've wanted on E9 for a long time.
For years, I've wondered why Tommy White raises his 7th to a G on his RKR (along with the usual 2nd and 9th string lowers); perhaps I now realize why he does it! Maybe I could have saved myself the trouble of changing my P4 (it used to lower 5 and 6 a tone but I hardly used it), and just added Tommy's F#-G raise on RKR!
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George:
Thanks for your help, and for you kind remarks!
As for playing again, I fear that my hemodialysis schedule (three days a week) may mean that working 'pro' is no longer an option. But I have come out of a sort of resigned depression and I find myself taking a new interest in music and steel guitar in particular. It's a lifetime pursuit, after all, and I'll still end up just scratching the surface!
_________________
Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 10 May 2022 2:18 am
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F# to G raise. I had that for years, on a PP Emmons, Franklin and now a GFI.
Johnny Cox first put that on my Emmons in 1972 and told me Buddy Charleton called it his "Ernest Tubb" lever.
_________________
GFI Ultra Keyless S-10 with pad (Black of course) TB202 amp, Hilton VP, Steelers Choice sidekick seat, SIT Strings
Cakewalk by Bandlab and Studio One V4.6 pro DAWs, MOTU Ultralite MK5 recording interface unit |
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