Carter D10 - Tuning down from C6 to B6

Bob Sykes · From: North Carolina

I have finally decided to learn the back neck. As I have almost no time invested in C6 tuning, I think it might be best to start with B6 in case I ever join the universal camp.

My question is: Can I simply drop down to B6 and adjust tuning nuts as needed? Or are changes to string gauge(s) and/or bellcranks and changer holes also likely? My strings are currently:70-54-42-36-30-24-22-18-14-12
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Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

You can try just tuning them down. It won't hurt anything.
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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting.

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

I did just that for a few years. No changes in the mechanics, used the same string set and just dropped the tuning down to B.

There was a time I played both Universals and D10s at the same time, swapping back and forth.

You'll love it and find The B tuning to have more in common with the E9 tuning too boot.

Dave Hopping · From: Aurora, Colorado

Had no problems tuning my Super Pro's C neck to B. Then I got a U-12.

EDIT: What Jerry said. Winking

Ken Metcalf · From: San Antonio Texas USA

Yep B6th is okay for me.

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Little Walter PF-89.
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J D Sauser · From: Wellington, Florida

Same string gauges... although the middle G# being a plain o.o20 may become an issue and worth while considering going to a wound o.o22 for better intonation.

You can just tune down... your changes will have to be loosened up just ever so slightly and you're good to go.

B relates to E and once you hit that "6th"-pedal, you are in E which is a IV relative to E. So it makes position-remembering MUCH easier because it relates to the fret positions you have learned on E9th and also a standard guitar, using the 9th string tuned down from F to E as the "tracker".

B6 allows to play C on the first fret too, which is a common key, but it takes SOME single note-hammer-on-and-off for C away. I think that's why some have gone Bb6th because it makes hammering around on C easier.
Keep in mind, you always have B6th and A6th on your E9th. With pedals down and tuned splits, you Bb-lever and Eb-lever act as pedals 5&6 on 6th tuning neck.

... J-D.
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The uses of Tablature is addictive and has been linked to reduced musical fertility.
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Bob Sykes · From: North Carolina

Thanks guys! I am really looking forward to trying this.
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Richard Alderson · From: Illinois, USA

I wouldn't bother. Its all the same string grips, and pedal and knee lever combinations,and intervals whether you execute them on Open fret or first fret. If its not broke why fix it?
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ajm · From: Los Angeles

From an almost totally inexperienced PSGer, I'd tend to agree with the tuning down and readjusting pedals/knees tuning at the end plate as required.
It seems much simpler than changing string gauges, especially since you're probably buying pre-packaged c6 sets.

One possible thing that could happen doing this: The strings are now tuned down a half step, so they may tend to be looser or floppier due to the decreased tension.

On that note.............

This really doesn't answer any questions here, so you've been warned.

On a six string standard guitar, a lot of guys tune the low E down to a D. This will make that low E a lot floppier when using a standard set.
I have found that if you tune that low E down, and raise the string gauge a size or two on that string only, it evens things out pretty good.
I had a Strat set up this way, normal tuning on A through E, low E tuned down to D.
I used a 009-042 set as a basis, but replaced the low E with an 046. It balanced out well, and the floating trem behaved with no adjustments relative to the normal 009-042 set.

The gauges that you listed for your C6 are:
70-54-42-36-30-24-22-18-14-12

Replacing them with different gauges for the new B6 tuning would probably require a lot of trial and error.
So in that light, unless you can find someone who has actually come up with a custom B6 set, we're back to trying the easy thing first, which is to just tune down and adjust the pedals/knees tuning.

And.....after typing all of this up......AAAAHHHHH!!!!!
I should have known better, and asked this first.

Did you think to search the forums or to Google this topic?

https://steelguitarforum.com/Forum5/HTML/013757.html

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

The string set for E9/B6 Universal is virtually the same as the C6 set. There is no need for a modified string set.

You're talking about 1 fret drop anyway.

As I stated earlier, I have experience doing this so I know it works.

I disagree with the suggestion to tune to C. There's no good reason to do that. That's just the way the tunings developed and carried over from the fixed tuning days.

The relationship between B6 and E9 makes for more familiarity between the 2 tunings.

On the E9 tuning if you just lower your E strings, there's the B6, so there's congruity associated with the 2 tunings. It makes perfect sense.

I realize people enjoy speculating, analyzing, and discussing these things but don't overthink this issue.

Ian Rae · From: Redditch, England

Listen to Jerry. I have also done this and none of the theoretical snags occurs in practice. I started on a D10 with the rear neck tuned down and very soon switched seamlessly to universal, which is clearly what Bob has in mind.
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Bob Sykes · From: North Carolina

Yep. Ian... spot on, and as Dave already noted above "What Jerry said". You guys have BTDT.

Ian Rae · From: Redditch, England

Stick with the plain 4th. I tried a wound 6th on my first uni because I liked it for the E9, but it doesn't voice well on the B6.
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Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs

Richard Alderson · From: Illinois, USA

Jerry is right! I thought it would be harder with every thing tuned down 1 fret, but its easier ! Amazing.... It really smooths out a lot of differences between the two necks.
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