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Post new topic Help! Changing a string on my keyless Excel. First time.
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Author Topic:  Help! Changing a string on my keyless Excel. First time.
fraser

 

From:
seattle wa
Post  Posted 15 Sep 2020 11:53 am    
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Hi All,

I am embarrassed to admit I am a bit befuddled about how to change a string on my new Superb Excel PSG. Never did it before. Given the Superb setup and string changing instructions here - https://fuzzypsg.com/int/product.html, I have some questions and need some guidance.

Questions:

1. What is the difference between the two nuts per string on the changer end? The upper silver one obviously has the hole for the string and then there is the lower black one. When do I adjust these and what does each do? How much do you adjust them?

2. As the string in question broke, I need to get all three nuts (one at the head/tuner side and two on the changer side) back to a starting position. I have no idea how many rotations or how I would know it was in a starting position.


Here is my how I think it would be done for a new string. Please insert steps or make comments as needed, please.



1. Hook string ball end in head/tuner end of guitar where there is a slot.

2. Run string through hole on changer end and wrap several times.

3. Pull string tight (using a string puller if needed)

4. Adjust nuts on changers end (this is where I am completely clueless). Which and how much am I adjusting/tightening?

5. Fine tune string on tuner end.


I would really appreciate some help as I have been playing a 9 string for a while now and I'd like to get that back up to 10!

Thanks
Fraser
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Pete Burak

 

From:
Portland, OR USA
Post  Posted 15 Sep 2020 12:25 pm    
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Fraser,
If you PM me your phone number I could call you while you are sitting at your Steel, to tell you how I do it.
You need two identical Allen wrenches for the Changer end. My Excel came with a bag of tools, and they were in there.
If you are changing the high G#, you should buy a ten-pack because you may not get it right on the first one.
As you said, turn the tuning nut on the left side so it is back to it's starting point (you can see it go up/down if you look in there from the left endplate) and put the Ball end in the slot.
Then go to the Changer end...
Loosen the side set-screw first. That is the one that allows the string to wind, and then locks it in place at the end of the procedure.
I made a little round sleeve about 3/4 of an inch long (I cut a square out of plastic from a string package... roll it up to fit over the peg, and scotch-tape it, you will use this little sleeve for every string change). This sleeve goes over the string post, to hold the string in place after you put it through the hole. I slide the sleeve over the end of the string, and then over the top half of the post, putting a right angle bend in the string so the string is pointing straight up as it exits the hole in the post. The string is now loosely attached, both ends are secured, and you can take both hands off the Steel for a moment.

Now put the other Allen wrench straight down into the center hole in the string post, wind it up (wind it over itself so it winds 3-4 turns over the part that's is pointing up), and lock it in place with the side Allen wrench. As you do the winding, the changer finger will overcome the Changer spring tension and move into line with the other strings.
The final locking step requires holding the tension with the top Allen wrench, while locking it in place with the side Allen wrench.
When doing that final locking of the set-screw, turn the upper post so the locking screw seats against a flat side of the post (the post is shaped kind of like a Stop sign, so pick a flat spot for the set-screw).

Now you can tighten/tune the string to pitch using the tuner on the left end.

I wish Mitsuo would have made it more like a Sierra Session Series Keyless. Uugh.
It would be easier with some nicer T-handle wrenches.
It gets much easier once you get the procedure worked out. The high G# is really the only one that is a pain.
Pete
Smile


Last edited by Pete Burak on 16 Sep 2020 10:11 am; edited 4 times in total
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K Maul


From:
Mechanicville NY/Hobe Sound FL
Post  Posted 16 Sep 2020 4:17 am    
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I love my EXCEL but the process was intimidating at first. Before long it wasn’t so bad, but if this wonderful guitar has an Achilles Heel, this is certainly it. I got it going well the first string changing session and don’t recall breaking any third strings. I do have mine down in D9, though and use a .013.
_________________
Kevin Maul: Asher, Airline, Beard, Clinesmith, Dobro, Evans, Excel, Fender, Fluger, Gibson, Hilton, Ibanez, Justice, K+K, Live Strings, Martin, National, Peterson, Quilter, Rickenbacher, Sho~Bud, Supro, TC, Ultimate, VHT, Webb, X-otic, Yamaha, ZKing.
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Ian Rae


From:
Redditch, England
Post  Posted 16 Sep 2020 8:34 am    
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The only snag to me is finding two Allen keys the same size! Once I've conquered that I find the tension screw/lock screw arrangement quite elegant.
_________________
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
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Pete Burak

 

From:
Portland, OR USA
Post  Posted 16 Sep 2020 9:01 am    
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I am away from my Excel at the moment...
Maybe one of the other guys could post a few pics of how the changer-end Post looks after they change a string, or maybe a vid of the procedure?

I am in San Diego until Oct 10th, and my Excel is in Portland.
I have a friend that helps me make videos so I think I will make an instructional vid on Excel string changing when I get home in October.
I have my old Emmons S12U to play while I am here, but I miss my Excel!

Fwiw, Steve from Excel (the USA Excel rep) told me he uses a .10 for the high G#, to prevent string breakage.
I have had good luck using a .12.
I broke alot of .11's when I first got my Excel, for some reason.
Whatever gauge you settle on, I recommend keeping many spare strings on hand in your steel seat... I also keep my Excel string changing kit handy in a nice little zip case, with the two allen wrenches and my lil tube/sleeve thingee Smile (and the other tools it came with).
Nowadays I rarely break any strings, and usually just change the high G# every few weeks, before it breaks.
Most of my string breaks occurred right in front of the bridge, near the changer.

One other thought, I know there have been several variations in the evolution of Excel Keyless over the years. It is possible some of us have a different hardware variation.
I saw one version where you tune the string with your fingers instead of a tuning wrench, which is how my Sierra Session Series Keyless works.
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fraser

 

From:
seattle wa
Post  Posted 18 Sep 2020 2:48 pm    
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Huh! It sounds harder than I thought. In that case, I REALLY appreciate the help here!

Is the side set screw, the black hex nut that is lower and the center hole is the silver hex nut that is above?

This is the 1st string (G) on a C6th tuning that I broke while trying to stretch the string when I first got the guitar.

I do have Steve's #, the rep (?) and may chat with him a bit also. Pete, I have PM-ed my number to you. Really appreciate the offer. No real hurry as it has been broken for some time. If anyone has some videos, that would be huge. I do have the 2nd allen wrench from Fuzzy.

Thanks!

Fraser
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