| Author |
Topic: Split tuning issue |
Slim Heilpern
From:
Aptos California, USA
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Posted 22 Mar 2020 6:44 pm |
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I've had a particular working split on my Williams 700 U12 E9/B6 for quite some time. Somewhere along the way something must have changed because today when I went for it, it was way out of tune and now it seems incapable of being tuned as currently configured. I'm aware of the tuning procedure for splits and have done it many times (but not needed very often as the axe just sits in my studio).
This is on the 6th string (G#) with the usual B pedal raise to A, and a lever lowering to F#. The split wants to produce a G.
Tuning the pedal (rod) and lever (split screw) work fine, but tuning the split (rod) down to the G is causing the open string to go sharp. IOW, shortening the lower rod is somehow forcing the open string sharp. New strings made no difference.
This is making my head spin a bit trying to imagine why this happens, especially when it didn't used to be this way and I've made no other changes to the instrument since last having tuned that split without issue.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
- Slim
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Chromatic Harmonica, Guitar, and Pedal Steel (Williams U12 Series 700, Emmons lap)
http://slimandpenny.com |
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Tom Dillon
From:
La Mesa, California, USA
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Slim Heilpern
From:
Aptos California, USA
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Posted 22 Mar 2020 7:45 pm
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Thank you Tom!
_________________
Chromatic Harmonica, Guitar, and Pedal Steel (Williams U12 Series 700, Emmons lap)
http://slimandpenny.com |
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Mike Wilkerson
From:
Luther Oklahoma
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Posted 22 Mar 2020 9:31 pm
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Mickey Adams has an excellent YouTube video in detail of split tuning
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S12 MSA Classic Nashville 400 with fox mods amp 1 volume pedal 1 Lil Izzy and 3 cords |
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Ian Rae
From:
Redditch, England
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Posted 22 Mar 2020 11:02 pm
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I haven't looked at Tom's YouTube link, but the way you tell it sounds like you've been trying to tune the full lever lower to F# before the split G instead of after.
Great choice of guitar, btw!
_________________
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs |
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Slim Heilpern
From:
Aptos California, USA
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Posted 23 Mar 2020 5:39 am
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| Ian Rae wrote: |
I haven't looked at Tom's YouTube link, but the way you tell it sounds like you've been trying to tune the full lever lower to F# before the split G instead of after.
Great choice of guitar, btw!
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Thanks Ian, but that's not it in this case. I've actually tried it both ways -- same problem. I think Jon Light's post that Tom pointed to above on overtuning is probably the key, although I've no idea how this could have crept up on me without having changed anything. I'll be working on the axe today...
And yes, love the guitar -- yours looks mighty pretty too!
- Slim
_________________
Chromatic Harmonica, Guitar, and Pedal Steel (Williams U12 Series 700, Emmons lap)
http://slimandpenny.com |
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Mike Perlowin
From:
Los Angeles CA
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Posted 23 Mar 2020 7:53 am
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I had a similar problem. To fix it, I loosened all the rods, retuned the string, and started retuning the rods from scratch. First the raise, then the split with the regular lowering rod, and finally yhe lower, with the split screw.
It works fine now.
_________________
Please visit my web site and Soundcloud page and listen to the music posted there.
http://www.mikeperlowin.com http://soundcloud.com/mike-perlowin |
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Slim Heilpern
From:
Aptos California, USA
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Posted 23 Mar 2020 8:58 am
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| Mike Perlowin wrote: |
I had a similar problem. To fix it, I loosened all the rods, retuned the string, and started retuning the rods from scratch. First the raise, then the split with the regular lowering rod, and finally yhe lower, with the split screw.
It works fine now. |
Thanks for the suggestion Mike. Actually that was the first thing I tried (and have tried several times since). But as soon as I tune the split with the lowering rod, the open string goes sharp. So, time to put it on the bench and try and give the rod some more play as described in Jon's 'overtuning' post...
- Slim
_________________
Chromatic Harmonica, Guitar, and Pedal Steel (Williams U12 Series 700, Emmons lap)
http://slimandpenny.com |
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Slim Heilpern
From:
Aptos California, USA
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Posted 23 Mar 2020 10:09 am
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Solved! I was able to get closer by changing the pivot points to achieve more pull for the same lever travel. However, that didn't quite get me there and didn't explain why this used to work (until one day it didn't). I finally noticed that one of the 2 screws anchoring the base of the lever to the body had come loose, making the lever less effective. Tightening that screw fixed it.
Thanks for all the suggestions, learned a few things in the process  .
- Slim
_________________
Chromatic Harmonica, Guitar, and Pedal Steel (Williams U12 Series 700, Emmons lap)
http://slimandpenny.com |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 23 Mar 2020 10:40 am
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Hmm. Not one, but two screws loose.
You know, there's a joke in there somewhere!
Glad you got it fixed.
Maybe Jon needs to add that to his most excellent post about overtuning.
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Lee, from South Texas - Down On The Rio Grande
There are only two options as I see it.
Either I'm right, or there is a sinister conspiracy to conceal the fact that I'm right.
Williams Keyless S-10, BMI S-10, Evans FET-500LV, Fender Steel King, 2 Roland Cube 80XL's,
Sarno FreeLoader, Goodrich Passive Volume Pedals, Vintage ACE Pack-A-Seat |
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Doug Hall
From:
Alabama, USA
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Posted 23 Mar 2020 1:11 pm
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Love seeing these examples of problems solved, I'm learning a lot! Thanks for posting!
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Mullen G2 SD10, Excel S10; Peavey 400s (LTD, Vegas, Session, and Renown); Nashville 112; etc... |
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