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Post new topic Volume Pedal Use?
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Author Topic:  Volume Pedal Use?
Mark Helm


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 16 Jun 2019 10:30 pm    
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I see some people use a volume pedal w/ non-pedal steel. What’s the best one to use for Western music? Any notes on technique appreciated!
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Gene Tani


From:
Pac NW
Post  Posted 17 Jun 2019 3:06 pm    
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There's always Goodriches in the "For sale" classifieds, if you don't like yours, easy to sell. Ernie ball is the reliable basic option, you can get one for $50 used but check if the string is in good condition and properly wound around the spindle.

I think the newer ones have this tuner out mod https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=173031
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Steve Lipsey


From:
Portland, Oregon, USA
Post  Posted 17 Jun 2019 3:11 pm    
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And there is the wonderful light, little Moyo pedal, a bit (actually, quite a bit, but really well-made) more pricey, but fits nicely right on a small pedalboard, and you don't need a pac-a-seat to carry it...built by a pedal steeler...I put it on the same little board as my Milkman "The Amp", carry everything over the shoulder ...add a couple of those new tiny pedals and you have a complete setup...(I've switched that Sonicake for a TC Electronics chorus).
https://reverb.com/item/4390294-moyo-mini-volume-pedal


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Tim Whitlock


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 17 Jun 2019 3:57 pm    
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My favorite is the Fender Vol/Tone pedal. Works fine as a passive volume pedal and it's fun to use for Speedy West doo-wah effects.
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Jim Graham


From:
Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 2 Jul 2019 3:18 pm    
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I use a passive volume pedal for "volume swells", basically, back the volume right off, pluck a note or chord and bring the volume up. It's especially effective if you slide down a few frets just as it's reaching peak volume. I've been using a volume pedal for every instrument I play(conventional guitar and banjo as well as lapsteel). I find it's very useful for setting my volume on the fly during songs with my band and allows me to adjust instruments with different output levels easily.
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Steve Lipsey


From:
Portland, Oregon, USA
Post  Posted 2 Jul 2019 3:25 pm    
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Further thoughts....I used it because I basically am imitating pedal steel in my alt-country band, and it is used as described above for swells routinely there...but I've found that just the sliding up from below swoop is enough, no need for the swell on every note like with pedal steel...the audience won't know the difference, and pedal steelers will know that you aren't really playing a pedal steel no matter what you do...
I have a volume control on my lap steel for adjustments or swells occasionally, and a small boost pedal on my board for a bump during solos, or partway when doing big slides through transition chords, like on pedal steel...
So I killed the volume pedal - it was harder to avoid accidentally cutting the volume than it was worth...on pedal steel, where using it is a constant thing, that isn't an issue...
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Williams S10s, Milkman Pedal Steel Mini & "The Amp"
Ben Bonham Resos, 1954 Oahu Diana, 1936 Oahu Parlor
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Mark Helm


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 2 Jul 2019 6:04 pm     Tahnks Stephen!
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Wow.. that was so thoughtful, Stephen...thanks! I've never played pedal, but I've been curious. So thanks. You're aces!
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Remington Steelmaster S8 w/ custom Steeltronics pickup. Vox MV-50 amplifier + an 1940's Oahu cab w/ 8" American Vintage speaker. J. Mascis Fender Squire Jazzmaster, Hofner Club bass, Ibanez AVN4-VMS Artwood Vintage Series Concert Size Acoustic Guitar. 1920s/30s Supertone Hawaiian-themed parlor guitar. Silvertone parlor guitar.
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Mick Hearn

 

From:
United Kingdom
Post  Posted 3 Jul 2019 12:59 pm    
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I am using a ShoBud string operated pedal. Love it. Not keen on the ZB pedals although I have two laying around.
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Paul Seager


From:
Augsburg, Germany
Post  Posted 4 Jul 2019 12:51 am    
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I have several volume pedals and have a preference for those with a minimum volume setting. I use the pedal for swells so, kind of emulating the pedal-steel sound on slower songs.

I use two pedals regularly: A Morley which is active, as it uses a light sensor instead of a pot; a Boss which is passive. I don't like relying on batteries so I always use a power supply with the Morley, meaning that it has to be a long gig for me to bother to take it. The Boss is smaller, lighter and of course requires no power source. I use that for jam-sessions and rehearsals.

The Morley is IMO by far the better of the two as I find it more reactive but that is entirely my preference.
I bought both used and they are reliable. Others that I have include a cheap Bepesco (cheap means terrible!) and a Goodrich which felt nice when I got it but the string mechanism creaks and despite many attempts to rectify, it annoys the heck out of me and, probably inspired me to try the non-mechanical Morley. I've never tried the active Hilton as they are not easily available in Europe but many swear by them.

Just on pedal positioning in the chain: I put it directly after the instrument and before delay and reverb effects. I don't use distortions or compressors but I guess they should come before the volume pedal in the chain.

\ paul
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 4 Jul 2019 6:05 am    
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Steve Lipsey wrote:
Further thoughts....I used it because I basically am imitating pedal steel in my alt-country band, and it is used as described above for swells routinely there...but I've found that just the sliding up from below swoop is enough, no need for the swell on every note like with pedal steel...the audience won't know the difference, and pedal steelers will know that you aren't really playing a pedal steel no matter what you do...
I have a volume control on my lap steel for adjustments or swells occasionally, and a small boost pedal on my board for a bump during solos, or partway when doing big slides through transition chords, like on pedal steel...
So I killed the volume pedal - it was harder to avoid accidentally cutting the volume than it was worth...on pedal steel, where using it is a constant thing, that isn't an issue...


See blue highlighted text. Do you really think that statement is accurate? PSG players DON'T swell on every note. That is generally considered bad technique. It gets really nerve wracking, very quickly.
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Steve Lipsey


From:
Portland, Oregon, USA
Post  Posted 4 Jul 2019 10:51 am    
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Well, by "swell" I guess I meant using the volume pedal to increase sustain by swelling the volume as it fades, more than actually starting a zero and swelling into the note..
But you also make the point that it isn't really needed anyway, I suppose, unless you want it for sustain beyond what your instrument provides, which is where I use the volume knob or the TC Electronics Spark Boost pedal...
the lap steel itself seems to provide plenty of sustain for me, generally....
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www.facebook.com/swingaliband & a few more....
Williams S10s, Milkman Pedal Steel Mini & "The Amp"
Ben Bonham Resos, 1954 Oahu Diana, 1936 Oahu Parlor
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Jack Hanson


From:
San Luis Valley, USA
Post  Posted 4 Jul 2019 11:00 am    
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Mick Hearn wrote:
I am using a ShoBud string operated pedal. Love it.

Me too. Sometimes you can find fixer-uppers on eBay (and elsewhere) for a bargain price. They're easy to make function as good as new.
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Steve Lipsey


From:
Portland, Oregon, USA
Post  Posted 21 Aug 2019 8:35 pm    
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I take back my comment on a volume pedal not being needed for pedal steel tone. I hauled out the volume pedal today and used it on my Oahu diana, and wow, it really did do the pedal steel thing...just killing the initial attack made it sound a lot more like a pedal steel, and then using the pedal for constant sustain also was good, although the Oahu had plenty of sustain anyway......
_________________
www.facebook.com/swingaliband & a few more....
Williams S10s, Milkman Pedal Steel Mini & "The Amp"
Ben Bonham Resos, 1954 Oahu Diana, 1936 Oahu Parlor


Last edited by Steve Lipsey on 22 Aug 2019 8:24 am; edited 1 time in total
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Fred Treece


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 22 Aug 2019 8:17 am    
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Check out Doug Beaumier’s videos. He is a lap steel ace, and his volume pedal technique is pro. Jerry Byrd’s is not too bad either...
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Jack Hanson


From:
San Luis Valley, USA
Post  Posted 22 Aug 2019 9:05 am    
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Guys like Mooney and Chalker were masters of the volume pedal, and it was a major component of their overall sound.
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Jesse Valdez


From:
Fiddletown, California, USA
Post  Posted 22 Aug 2019 11:28 pm    
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Another vote for the fender vol/tone (Vintage, can't vouch for the reissue). I even use it with it out for more treble than your guitar naturally has for most stuff, and my regular guitar playing. It allows another dimension as far always to modify your guitar's expressive capabilities. And its passive, not battery or power!
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Stephen Cowell


From:
Round Rock, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 23 Aug 2019 10:59 am    
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I have the reissue Fender vol-tone... I disconnected the tone circuit, it gets you into more trouble than it's worth... you end up trying to remember to slant your foot all the way right all the time... and the 'boo-wah' effect is better done with bar slams and your hand on the tone. It is indistinguishable from the vintge AFA I can tell... same stampings etc.

Also, the pot response curve is not like modern pedals... if you want a modern pedal steel sound get a modern pedal steel volume pedal... the Goodrich 120 (which I also own) is much closer to the response curve you seek, as are the Hilton, Telonics, etc.

Lastly, it is not a low-profile pedal... modern pedal steel volumes are made to be low to the floor. If you're sitting down, having your knee raised up is going to be uncomfortable, and the higher it is, the worse it is, especially if you have the guitar in your lap.
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