I keep breaking 11s!

Bill C. Buntin · Posted 27 May 2019 8:16 am

Ive been using 12s for over 20 years. I learned this from the late Gene Fields. Minimized my breakage frequency. So much so, its no longer an issue really. Or at least for me.

Bb

Dan Beller-McKenna · From: Durham, New Hampshire, USA

FWIW, I use SIT 011s on my Encore and haven't broken one. Having said that, this is the first set of SITs on there (after the original strings that came with the steel). Planning to change them this week. But I haven't broken an SIT 011 under normal use for years (use them on all my steels).

Dan Beller-McKenna · From: Durham, New Hampshire, USA

Hahaha!! And then I promptly broke one putting a new set of SITs on my Super Pro yesterday. Doh! Maybe there is a bad batch going around.

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

I tried a .012 on my Carter once, and it lasted a month or so. I was gigging heavily at the time. I replaced it with another .012 when I changed strings. It broke when I got it up to pitch. I didn't have a spare, so I went back to either an .011 or .0115.

I do have a set that I am going to put on my Mullen that has a .012. Crossing my fingers.

Like Roger, I like the tone of the .012. I use heavier gauges like .018 for string 5 and .022 for string 6. It seems to balance the individual volumes of those strings.
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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting.

Brad Malone · From: Pennsylvania, USA

Larry Baker, I agree with you "Live Steel Strings" are the best I ever found for the E9th tuning..they just never break on my Mullen. I get them from Hopewell, VA. 23860

Mike Mantey · From: Eastern Colorado, USA

Make sure you are winding it correctly. I made a short video on how we do it to keep them from breaking at the tuning key. https://youtu.be/zkdbQOwvi8w

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

If they break at the key head be very careful. I suggest you wear safety glasses till you find the problem.
Make sure there is no burrs around the cross hole in the tuner shaft. Be sure to wrap the 3rd string enough wraps till the string is wound on smooth round shaft, Past the cross hole.

If the string is breaking at the changer end, Check the fingers for burrs. Check the end of the broken string with a magnifying glass. I had an order of .011 strings. George L's that would break into 3 pieces, The long string, the short end with the ball and a small wedge shaped piece right where the string left the finger. The next order of strings, Some are still in my seat.

Larry Ball · From: Airdrie, Alberta, Canada

I use what I call the "Mullen Rap" on the 3rd and have never looked back. Mike was right and I suggest you look at his video. I also use a .012
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Mullen SD10, Sho~Bud SD10 LDG, Show-Pro SD10 LDG, Peavey Nashville 112, Boss Katana 100 MK11, Telonic's F100 Multi-Taper Super Pro V/P,

Mark McCornack · From: California, USA

If you are breaking right at the tuner, check the tuner through-hole for burrs or a sharp edge where the string would be exiting. Multiple wraps is also a VERY good idea on the plains, especially the thinner ones. If you donâ€™t have a string winder, invest the $5 or whatever it is to get one. De-burring and multiple wraps should fix your problem. If you do both these things and it still breaks there, re-post here. Iâ€™d be surprised if your problem isnâ€™t resolved though.

Itâ€™s pretty much just music wire and high cost â€œmagicâ€ NYXL wire isnâ€™t going to fix your problem. De-burring will keep an acute angle from localized stress point in the string and multiple wraps will tend to distribute the stress over the windings around the peg, bound by friction. These two things will help.

Bengt Erlandsen · From: Brekstad, NORWAY

Two wraps of thin teflon-tape around the string where it bends at the tuning post hole will prevent any breakage at that spot. It doesnt take that long to prepare the string before tuning and the extra work is far less than the work required to replace the string if it breaks.

(Teflon tape is also an easy solution to prevent string breakage and tuning troubles on a Fender Stratocaster after heavy vibrato use. String usually breaks at the spot where it comes up and a little before passing over the intonation bridges. Just check an old string for kinks at the ball end side and you will know exactly where on the string to wrap the teflon tape)

B.Erlandsen

Tony Prior · From: Charlotte NC

if they keep breaking, over and over again, ts not the string or the brand of string.
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years

CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website

George Kimery · From: Limestone, TN, USA

My experience has been that the brand of string does matter. I broke thirds for 40 years until I got Jaqwires. Then a few years ago, it became difficult to get them, so I switched to Live Steel. Haven't broken one of them yet. Jeff Newman used .012 and I believe so does Paul Franklin. I used .o115 for about a year, then this year I have gone to .012 with no problem and like the sound of them better. To my ears they sound a little fuller and not as thin as an .011. I think it blends in better when I play strings 3 and 5.

I can buy Buddy Emmons SIT strings locally for $6.75 a set. Live Steel strings are $10.50 plus shipping, so I have almost $15.00 in a set. Are they worth the difference, to me, absolutely. It's cheap insurance for not having to worry about breaking a string on the bandstand. Plus,I like the way they sound.

Andy Henriksen · From: Michigan, USA

I tried to restring my Stage One yesterday and had this same problem. I broke 3 .011s either while bringing up to pitch, or shortly thereafter. They are breaking, it seems, at the point where the string breaks off the tuning post and heads toward the nut. And yes, safety glasses would be wise! I got a cut on my finger where it got whipped with a string.

I'm using GHS strings. However, the .011s were regular strings, not the PGs that come with the E9 set.

I saw in another thread that Erv (I think) mentioned that the PG strings were stronger than the non-PG. What does PG even stand for? I don't think it's on the package anywhere.

Ultimately, I gave up on the 11s and now have a 12 there. I did have to back out the 6th string B pedal tuning nut A LOT, because, after the change, the B pedal was pulling almost a whole tone on that string.

I'd like to go back to 11s (after tomorrow's gig!), because I think the pedals feel more evenly tensioned with 11s. But I'm kind of scared, tbh (scared of wasting time/money).

So...should I get some single .011PG strings before I try to switch back? Try a brand other than GHS? Also, re/ this mullen wrap, am I understanding correctly that it's 4 wraps toward the end of the post, then you cross over and back to the other side of the hole? I always thought you should never cross your strings over themselves on a tuning post.

Finally..teflon tape - Anybody else do this? What do you do - two wraps around the post, and then just poke the string through the tape into the tuner post hole, and then proceed as normal?

Ian Worley · From: Sacramento, CA

I typically do just one wrap toward the end of post then cross over to lock it down and wind in toward the base of the post until you are well clear of the string hole. As has been mentioned several times here, the hole in the post creates a sharp edge. Even the slightest little kink or nick makes a weak spot in a small diameter string.

Tony Prior · From: Charlotte NC

Please check the POST for a burr or sharp edge. Don't assume strings are breaking at the post because the strings are bad. The strings are talking to you ! Very Happy

_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years

CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website

Andy Henriksen · From: Michigan, USA

Yeah, mine aren't breaking at the hole, but rather where the string leaves the post, after wrapping around it a few times. there are no burrs or rough spots or anything that I can see or feel.

Ian Worley · From: Sacramento, CA

If the string lays over itself within the last wrap or two it will kink it enough to make a weak spot, it needs a nice smooth exit from the post.

Dave Meis · From: Olympic Peninsula, Washington, USA

(Quote)I saw in another thread that Erv (I think) mentioned that the PG strings were stronger than the non-PG. What does PG even stand for? I don't think it's on the package anywhere.

It denotes Pedal Guitar.

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