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Topic: What Plain-Jane cables are ok? |
Paul McEvoy
From:
Baltimore, USA
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Posted 12 May 2019 10:40 am |
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I need to buy some cables, mostly to have extra to leave in the car, etc.
Seems like none of the easily available ones (Daddario etc) seem to have many fans?
Is any of the regular brands better than the others? Mogami kinda stuff is too pricey at the moment. |
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Bob Hoffnar
From:
Austin, Tx
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Posted 12 May 2019 1:06 pm
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Any regular cable will be fine. There is no such thing as a pedalsteel cable.
_________________
Bob |
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Eric Philippsen
From:
Central Indiana, USA
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Posted 12 May 2019 4:20 pm
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Been playing for 45 years. Seen and used all the cables in every type of environment and situation. Got tired of the bad stuff, was pissed when a "new & improved" cable failed on always, of course, a gig. Finally found a cable that worked, sounded great, and delivered. For the last 20 years I've used nothing but George L cables and connectors.
Every vehicle I own carries an extra bar, picks, and a 3 & 10-foot set of those cables. 'Cause, really, you never know when you'll run across some "whoa" Emmons, or killer Sho-Bud, or Zum in some little music shop, or some gigging situation where you need those items RIGHT NOW. It's happened several times to me! My gigging pak-a-seat is stuffed with various lengths of them to cover any setup.
Just do it, get some, and know you're covered. |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 15 May 2019 4:57 am
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Like Bob, I can use just about anything and get "my" sound. IMHO, it's more about knowing how to use stuff than it is about the stuff itself. I don't use expensive "low-cap" cables because if there's one thing my pedal steel seldom needs, it's extra highs. 
Steelers these days seldom sound as good as steelers did decades ago. That proves to me that you don't need special "stuff" to sound good. |
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Jack Hanson
From:
San Luis Valley, USA
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Posted 15 May 2019 6:20 am
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| Donny Hinson wrote: |
| Steelers these days seldom sound as good as steelers did decades ago. That proves to me that you don't need special "stuff" to sound good. |
Exactly!
Switching strings, pickups, cables, etc. are no substitute for seat time. |
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John Goux
From:
California, USA
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Posted 23 May 2019 7:39 pm
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You guys crack me up.
Every one of you knows the most important element to playing steel guitar is your choice of guitar cable. You’re still trying to hide it.
PS. To the OP, D’Addarrio cables are a popular choice, reasonably priced, pleasantly bright and very dependable. |
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b0b
From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
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Paul McEvoy
From:
Baltimore, USA
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Posted 24 May 2019 7:41 am
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I should have been more specific: I was mostly talking about cable durability. I think my failure rate is probably around 75% and I don't play out that much.
I haven't been totally impressed with D'addarios in this regard. |
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Bob Hoffnar
From:
Austin, Tx
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Posted 24 May 2019 8:05 am
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If you can operate a soldering iron it's pretty easy to make your own cables with Neutrik plugs and canare cable.
_________________
Bob |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 24 May 2019 3:04 pm
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There are a few reasons that cables fail. One is people who pull the cables out of guitars and amps by pulling on the wire (instead of holding on to the plug itself). Another is players (and others) who trip over the cables. The last reason is probably people who use cables that are too short, thus constantly pulling them at right angles where the wire goes into the plug. I rarely broke cables, even when I was gigging 5 nights a week, but that might have just been luck. Who knows?
However, I don't really care for big cables that are "break-proof"...those super-heavy ones with the ginormous/strong plugs. I always carry a few extra cables, and I want the cables to be the "weakest link". That way, when some doofus gets his feet tangled romping across the stage, the cable will give way first - and they won't be breaking jacks, or pulling my amp off the stand, or sending my steel tumbling over. |
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Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
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Posted 25 May 2019 1:48 am
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| Bob Hoffnar wrote: |
| If you can operate a soldering iron it's pretty easy to make your own cables with Neutrik plugs and canare cable. |
"IF" The magic word.
Plain Jane is exactly what is defined . CHEAP, poor quality.
$4000 instrument, $1000 amp, $10 cable.
After years of putzing with various cables , even making/repairing my own, ( and yeah I know how to use an Iron) I splurged and bought a few Mogami Silver, 12 footers when they were on sale.
that was maybe 5 or 6 years ago. I have never had to chase a cable ever since. Hundreds of gigs, Hundreds. The same two cables.
I do also have some George L cables that I have been using for Steel for 10 or more years, they are also excellent.
Spend the money on the good stuff, use your time to practice !
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years
CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website |
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Steven Paris
From:
Los Angeles
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Posted 25 May 2019 2:35 pm
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| Bob Hoffnar wrote: |
| If you can operate a soldering iron it's pretty easy to make your own cables with Neutrik plugs and canare cable. |
Right on!! AND you have a cable that's reliable, sounds good, and is CHEAP!! You can make a 10-foot cable with Canare LV-61 (https://www.markertek.com/product/lv-61s-we/canare-lv-61s-rg59-75-ohm-video-coaxial-cable-by-the-foot-white) and Rean/Neutrik plugs (https://www.markertek.com/product/nys201/rean-nys201-1-4-inch-2-pole-mono-plug-short-handle-nickel-silver) for less than $7.00!! It will equal or better ANY cable on the market at ANY price.
_________________
Emmons & Peavey |
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Bill Ferguson
From:
Milton, FL USA
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Posted 25 May 2019 3:01 pm
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I've tried them all and hands down, I get my best tone with George L's.
That is why I became a George L's dealer over 30 years ago and nothing could make me switch.
I have made this offer many times. If you buy a set and are not satisfied that you get a better tone, I will refund your money and you keep the cables. That's how sure I am.
_________________
AUTHORIZED George L's, Goodrich, Telonics and Peavey Dealer: I have 2 steels and several amps. My current rig of choice is 1993 Emmons LeGrande w/ 108 pups (Jack Strayhorn built for me), Goodrich OMNI Volume Pedal, George L's cables, Goodrich Baby Bloomer and Peavey Nashville 112. Can't get much sweeter. |
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Aaron Johnson
From:
Lemoore, CA
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Posted 25 May 2019 3:08 pm
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| If you can solder, I'm a fan of Mogami 2524 with Amphenol jacks. I buy in bulk from Redco which has some of the lowest prices out there. They have about any other brand of cable and connector that is used in the mainstream if you have a different preference. |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 25 May 2019 6:40 pm
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Plain-Jane cables? Live Wires work just fine. Guaranteed for life. I ran across a couple of old ones that had "issues". I have no idea where they were purchased; but, I took them to a Guitar Center. They gave me two brand new cables ... no questions asked.
Click Here
_________________
Lee, from South Texas - Down On The Rio Grande
There are only two options as I see it.
Either I'm right, or there is a sinister conspiracy to conceal the fact that I'm right.
Williams Keyless S-10, BMI S-10, Evans FET-500LV, Fender Steel King, 2 Roland Cube 80XL's,
Sarno FreeLoader, Goodrich Passive Volume Pedals, Vintage ACE Pack-A-Seat |
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Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
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Posted 26 May 2019 1:39 am
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this thread is starting to resemble " which strings are best ". 
A player uses brand X for a decade with no issues and we tell him his cables are no good ! Tuff sell ! 
Not everyone can solder, not everyone SHOULD solder. Some people shouldn't even try to solder !
thats it for me ! 
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years
CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website |
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Peter Harris
From:
South Australia, Australia
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Posted 26 May 2019 5:13 am
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| Tony Prior wrote: |
Not everyone can solder, not everyone SHOULD solder. Some people shouldn't even try to solder !
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Couldn't have ever said that any better !!!!! 
_________________
If my wife is reading this, I don't have much stuff....really! |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 26 May 2019 5:18 pm
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What Tony said.
I had several molded-end D'Addario cables fail; I ordered them through their Player's Points program but they replaced all under warranty.
However, those are the only molded-end cables I have on hand. I use either George L or Disaster area solderless, assemble-yourself cables. I have never had issues with either - READ the DIRECTIONS, assemble them, use them.
End of story.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Steven Paris
From:
Los Angeles
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Posted 26 May 2019 7:04 pm
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| Tony Prior wrote: |
Not everyone can solder, not everyone SHOULD solder. Some people shouldn't even try to solder !
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Ah, c'mon---it ain't rocket science!! It's WAY easier than playin' the damn pedal steel guitar!!
_________________
Emmons & Peavey |
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Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
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Posted 27 May 2019 2:03 am
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Ha , I'm thinking I don't want to return a cable because it's bad or failed on a gig. I want it to NOT fail on a gig !
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years
CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website |
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Bill Ferguson
From:
Milton, FL USA
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Posted 27 May 2019 4:40 am
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Right on Tony.
But if a cable should fail, will you have time to get out a soldering iron and fix it.
OR, will you carry a spare cable?
OR, will you carry a knife and small screwdriver in your seat.
For me, I carry spare cables and a tool kit. I do not carry a soldering iron.
_________________
AUTHORIZED George L's, Goodrich, Telonics and Peavey Dealer: I have 2 steels and several amps. My current rig of choice is 1993 Emmons LeGrande w/ 108 pups (Jack Strayhorn built for me), Goodrich OMNI Volume Pedal, George L's cables, Goodrich Baby Bloomer and Peavey Nashville 112. Can't get much sweeter. |
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Jack Hanson
From:
San Luis Valley, USA
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Posted 27 May 2019 7:59 am
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I'm with Steve P & Bob H -- the Canare cable and cheap Roan (or more costly Neutrik or Switchcraft and undoubtedly others) phone plugs work fine for me at a fraction of the cost of today's premium brand cables.
Per Winnie Winston, circa 1975: "The best cords are the ones you make yourself. Use good quality metal phone plugs, and heavy-duty shielded cable. Make sure all the connections of the cable to the plug are well soldered. There is no reason for the cords to be overly long. Every extra bit of length means that much more cable which can pick up hum, or even unwanted radio frequencies. One three-foot cord to connect the steel to the volume pedal, and one nine-foot cord from the pedal to the amp should be sufficient."
After I purchased my first PSG in the late '70s, I followed Mr. Winston's advice. I went to one of the big wholesale electronic suppliers in downtown Mpls and purchased twelve feet of high-quality Belden shielded cable and four Switchcraft 1/4" metal mono phone plugs. Took the stuff home, soldered it up, and those two cables have worked flawlessly from that day until this one.
My soldering chops are definitely nothing special. I wouldn't even consider working on a PC board, for example. But soldering up guitar cables sure ain't rocket surgery. Just be sure to have the correct tools for the job.
If you have the ability to play pedal steel, you should be able to solder up decent cables at a fraction of the cost of the high-end stuff with little if any discernible shortcoming in the sound department. A meter may be able to tell the difference, but your ears won't. |
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Gabriel Edell
From:
Hamilton, Ontario
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Posted 27 May 2019 11:00 am
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In my experience George L’s cables sound great (i.e. quiet, minimal high-end signal loss) but are not remotely durable and the solderless connectors are horrible.
Years ago I bought 100’ of low-capacitance Mogami cable and a bunch of Switchcraft plugs from Full Compass and have been making my own cables since. I think they sound better than the various ProCo, Whirlwind, and Canare cables I already had on hand and they are the exact length I need them to be.
_________________
GFI S-10 P U, Moyo Volume, Fender Steel King, Fender 5F4 Super-Amp |
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Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
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Posted 27 May 2019 11:24 am
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| Bill Ferguson wrote: |
Right on Tony.
But if a cable should fail, will you have time to get out a soldering iron and fix it.
OR, will you carry a spare cable?
OR, will you carry a knife and small screwdriver in your seat.
For me, I carry spare cables and a tool kit. I do not carry a soldering iron. |
I carry many many spares and some tools, but also not a soldering iron. But I also have learned thru the years to spend the extra money, buy premium for many things, cables included. I haven't had a bad cable, ( same ones) for as long as I can remember. Mogami and George L's.
And yes, I can make and repair cables, I just don't want to !
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years
CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website |
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Bill Ferguson
From:
Milton, FL USA
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Posted 27 May 2019 11:35 am
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I agree Tony.
Why would someone that spends the bucks for a pedal steel and all the equipment that goes with it, and then shortchange themselves with junk cables?
Doesn't make any sense to me. But that's just me.
_________________
AUTHORIZED George L's, Goodrich, Telonics and Peavey Dealer: I have 2 steels and several amps. My current rig of choice is 1993 Emmons LeGrande w/ 108 pups (Jack Strayhorn built for me), Goodrich OMNI Volume Pedal, George L's cables, Goodrich Baby Bloomer and Peavey Nashville 112. Can't get much sweeter. |
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