Sho-Bud Changer Finger Not Returning Flush

Colin Swinney · From: Wisconsin, USA

I've had my '81 Super Pro less than a year, and two weeks ago changed my strings for the first time. After doing so, I couldn't get the fourth string E levers to stay tuned. I noticed that the changer wasn't returning flush on top, which you can see in the first photo.

Since it wasn't overtuned, I though something might be obstructing it. I removed the rods, and noticed the bottom return spring (the one that touches the body) looked pretty crooked. I removed that and see that the part it hooks onto is pushing itself forward, or at least not returning to a resting state.

What could be going on here? Any ideas on a fix?

Colin Swinney · From: Wisconsin, USA

This was also restored by Tom Bradshaw just before my purchase, and looks flawless. So I donâ€™t think grease or age have much to do with this issue.

Brian Hollands · From: Geneva, FL USA

I can't quite tell whats going on there but I'd take that finger out to examine it. Loosen the strings then use a dowel to push the changer axle through to just past #4, then pull the dowel back so it's holding 1 2 and 3 in place. You can drop 4 out the bottom and see what it's doing.
Why is #2 not lined up with the others?
_________________
'81 Sho-bud LDG, 2 EMCI's

Ian Worley · From: Sacramento, CA

Is that string tuned up to pitch in the photo? If so it looks like the lowering scissor may have slipped under the stop "comb" and it might just be wedged there. Your 2nd string lower looks a little out of whack too, but in the opposite direction like it's over-tuned. It's hard to see what's actually going on with the straight on and super zoomed-in photos, maybe you can take some more with a little more context. The springs against the body are a raise helpers, you don't need them. They can cause problems on strings that have both a raise and a lower.

Kevin Fix · From: Michigan, USA

Looks like the #4 finger is walking into the #5 finger. Check to see if the "moose ear" has a notch warn in it. If it is, the finger you can J B weld and file it down. If the fingers are walking into each other, flip the return spring over so it pulls it away from the #5 finger. Also loosen the pull on the bell crank and move so the rod will pull it away from it. My #4 was walking into the #5. Mine did the same thing about 6 months ago when I replaced my strings.

Bill Moore · From: Manchester, Michigan

It's probably what Ian described. You need to loosen or remove the string, then remove the return spring, then move the raise, top, part of the finger forward as if the string is being raised. When you reach a certain point, the lowering part will slip back to it's normal position. Now you can replace the return spring. Did you turn the guitar over while you had the strings removed? Sometimes this will happen if you do that.

Colin Swinney · From: Wisconsin, USA

Thanks for the replies everyone. I followed Brianâ€™s advice and removed the finger to inspect it, everything looks fine.

Now Iâ€™ll put it all back together and look at each step to see if anything stands out as an issue. Iâ€™m having a hell of a time getting the hook of the helper spring back in.

As for string two, it just feels a little sticky on returning when I pull the knee lever. Iâ€™ve never had issues with tuning it before, so Iâ€™m going to pretend everything is fine with it.

Kevin Fix · From: Michigan, USA

I use a ice pick with a hook on the end of it to put those springs on. Get them at Harbor Freight. I took off both my number 4 and 5 changer fingers. They both looked fine. I still had to do what I explained in my previous post about the pull spring and the bell crank pull. No problems after I did that.

Brian Hollands · From: Geneva, FL USA

If the finger looks good, no slop in the rivets, then I'd look at what both Ian and Kevin suggest. I haven't had Kevin's issue but I have had Ian's, a finger wedged under the stop plate.
_________________
'81 Sho-bud LDG, 2 EMCI's

Kevin Fix · From: Michigan, USA

After years of moving back and forth the bushing in the finger will wear a little and at the same time the shaft or axle will wear which causes the extra play between them. By rotating the spring it will pull the fingers away from each other. I took a .002 inch feeler gauge and put it between the fingers. If I run into this again I will cut some shim stock and put between the fingers, which will take out the play. A gasket hole cutter will work to make hole for axle shaft. This is the reason why the fingers walk into each other. It's A Bud!!!!!

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

Once other thing that is a possibility is that the changer finger has fallen behind the scissor and keeping it from returning. That can be seen by unhooking the return spring, loosening the string in question and looking way down at the bottom. If this is the case, you need to pull the lowering finger forward and push the finger back from under the guitar then re-tighten the string. It can be a bit tricky but happens a lot.

Colin Swinney · From: Wisconsin, USA

I was able to get things in order. I honestly donâ€™t know what I did to â€œfixâ€ anything other than just taking it apart and putting it back together.

But if itâ€™s not one thing, itâ€™s another. I got everything all tuned up with the E string, it was perfect, then I noticed my fifth string couldnâ€™t get in tune without overturning at the changer and I never even touched that string in all of this. I had to move a rod farther down the bell crank to allow for more travel and it was fine again. These things are so finicky, if you even look at a pedal steel wrong it seems to detune itself.

Thanks again for the help gang, yâ€™all are invaluable.

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

Not too uncommon to have used a different gauge or inadvertently swapped strings when changing.

Forum Index > Pedal Steel		Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic

All times are GMT - 8 Hours	Jump to: