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Topic: EZ on / off mod for pedal rack attachment |
Richard Stoops
From: Ohio, USA
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Posted 3 Jan 2019 12:40 pm
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Oops, I just looked at the Rit a little closer and the pedal rack is held by 1/4"-20 screws, not 10-32. _________________ Emmons and Rittenberry Steel guitars plus assorted 6 string guitars |
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Tommy Auldridge
From: Maryland, USA
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Posted 4 Jan 2019 10:24 am Hillman knobs in the first photo
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I've encountered a slight problem. I have an Emmons push/pull. The knob has to be taken completely off in order to mount the pedal rack each time. And, the one on the end where the volume pedal is, the knob won't even screw on because the tabs that support the volume pedal are in the way. I'm going to go with a different thing they make, which is sort of a larger wing nut made of plastic. There's one pictured above. that should work good. Thanks, Tommy..... |
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Ron Funk
From: Ballwin, Missouri
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Posted 4 Jan 2019 6:56 pm
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Hi Tommy
IMHO, the threads all the way thru large plastic wing nut is best way to go. Probably not acceptable to purists, but it works like a charm, and I like it.
Those 'knob types' might 'bottom out' prior to required thread engagement with pedal bar.
Caution probably suggested for spinning those large plastic wing nuts off pedal bar like a lug nut at Indy! Good idea to pack a spare in your Pak-A-Seat...just in case the other one gets lost in the pits.
The Plastic Wing Nut Idea has been around for 10 plus years, but it's always good idea to pass good ideas on down the line.
Ron |
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Tommy Auldridge
From: Maryland, USA
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Posted 5 Jan 2019 6:44 am Plastic wing nut
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Ron: That large plastic wing nut? Is it small enough, so that you don't have to remove it completely? Can you just loosen it and slide the plate over and re-tighten? I don't think I want to take it all the way off each time. Thanks, Tommy..... |
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Richard Sinkler
From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 5 Jan 2019 7:23 am
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Ron...
I have been using the solid ones for decades on Sho~Bud, Kline, Carter, Williams, and now Mullen. I have never had one bottom out. The threads go pretty deep (at least in the ones I posted. They are great for the guitars that have a bolt that goes through the leg. No more hard to find wing nuts.
They are not deep enough for the bolt in my pak-a-seat. I guess I need a through hole knob for that. But the ones I found at Home Depot don't have threads. There must be an insert with threads that needs to be put in. _________________ Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting. |
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Richard Sinkler
From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 5 Jan 2019 7:37 am Re: Plastic wing nut
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Tommy Auldridge wrote: |
Ron: That large plastic wing nut? Is it small enough, so that you don't have to remove it completely? Can you just loosen it and slide the plate over and re-tighten? I don't think I want to take it all the way off each time. Thanks, Tommy..... |
The 10-32 ones that I have on my Carter barely extend past the sliding part. The 1/4-20 ones on my Mullen extend 1/2" past . That one is 1-1/2" from top to tip. The 10-32 is smaller. Is the tab for the volume pedal 1/2" or shorter from the slide? It is possible it won't work for everyone or every guitar. Whether you use a solid or through hole one (it really makes no difference), it is much nicer to have something a little more substantial to turn. You don't lose them either. I do have a spare, but don't carry it with me. I carry a pack of wings nuts, just in case. _________________ Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting. |
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Tony Glassman
From: The Great Northwest
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Posted 5 Jan 2019 8:09 am
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Ron..........can you post some pictures? |
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Jon Light
From: Saugerties, NY
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Posted 5 Jan 2019 11:04 am
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Beware -- as I'm tearing down in my studio to head to a gig I'm realizing that if the knob overhangs the leg cut-out then you will (may) need to remove the knob to get the rack on/off the leg. A wing nut, plastic or steel, will not have this problem as it can be aligned out of the way. My 3/4" round knob is just barely ok. I am not seeing how the knob in the original photo up top of page one can work (without removing knob).
This is sort of obvious but I never visualized it until just now, the first time I'm tearing down since I got these. |
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Ron Pruter
From: Arizona, USA
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Posted 5 Jan 2019 6:54 pm
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Jon, if the rubber tips come off fairly easy, just remove them and slide the rack up and off. _________________ Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112. |
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Tommy Auldridge
From: Maryland, USA
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Posted 5 Jan 2019 7:03 pm Brilliant
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That's an option I never would have thought of. DUH! Thanks, Tommy..... |
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Jeremy Threlfall
From: now in Western Australia
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Richard Sinkler
From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 10 Jan 2019 7:07 am
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Jeremy Threlfall wrote: |
you guys all got super-fat fingers, or a problem with fine motor control?
(I doubt it)
I have never encountered a problem with the wingnuts on the guitars of mine that have them. (My Williams has larger plastic thingies, and that's OK too)
I think one of the problems in the world is that people overtighten these nuts. They need be only snug to do their job |
I don't think it has anything to do with over tightening the wing nut. I think most take their finger and spin the wing nut. Spin too much, and the wing will come off. That can be a real issue on guitars that have the pedal bar bolt that goes through the leg. The pedal bar that has the slide type of pedal bar mount, is not as problematic. You only have to back off the wing nut a small amount, just enough for the slide to slide. The bigger plastic knobs are not prone to being "spun", making them harder to lose. _________________ Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting. |
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Jeremy Threlfall
From: now in Western Australia
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Richard Sinkler
From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 11 Jan 2019 5:58 am
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Jeremy Threlfall wrote: |
Richard Sinkler wrote: |
I don't think it has anything to do with over tightening the wing nut. I think most take their finger and spin the wing nut. |
it would be much easier to overtighten a big plastic nut than a little brass wingnut
my wingnuts take less than a full turn between being snug enough to hold the rack on, and being loose enough to release the rack |
I think It's easier to gauge how tight it is with the plastic knob. But as you pointed out, It's easy to over tighten either one. But I still don't see how over tightening causes the loss either kind of nut. When you first start to loosen the nut, where the most pressure on the nut is required, it is probably still held by your fingers. Hard to lose if it's still in your fingers and on the bolt. I think most wing nuts are lost on guitars with the bolt through the leg where the nut has to be removed. And, you are right about only a turn or two to loosen a slide type leg clamp. _________________ Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 54 years and still counting. |
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Jim Fogarty
From: Phila, Pa, USA
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Posted 14 Jan 2019 8:28 pm
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Before I head down to the hardware store.......does anyone know, offhand, the size of the wingnut on the Stage One?!?! |
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