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Topic: Reminder: Don't drop those polymer bars |
Bill McCloskey
From:
Nanuet, NY
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 8:00 am |
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I love the bars that Todd and Basil make. The polymer (sp?) bars are great to play with and have a great sound. But as I recently discovered, if you drop them too many times. the metal core of the bar starts to come out the end, leaving no indentation and actually sticking out the end of the bar. I've had this happen with both basils and the clinesmith bar.
They still play great and I don't need the indentation, but it seems to be a thing with these bars: don't drop them.
_________________
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Jim Newberry
From:
Seattle, Upper Left America
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 8:21 am
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No such problem so far, but thanks for the cautionary tale!
_________________
"The Masher of Touch and Tone"
-1950 Fender Dual Pro 8
-1950's Fender Dual Pro 6
-Clinesmith D8
-Clinesmith 8-string Frypan
-Clinesmith Joaquin
-~1940 National New Yorker
-~1936 Rickenbacher B6
-Homebuilt Amps |
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Todd Clinesmith
From:
Lone Rock Free State Oregon
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 8:28 am
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The inserts on my bars are pressure fit, and if dropped multiple times on the butt end this could happen as it seems to have happened with Bill. If this happens to any one, I will gladly repress the bar . This is the first I have heard this happening and always will take care of any issue.
Bill, you should send me the bar so I can press it for you.
_________________
face book page:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Clinesmith-Instruments/1457245817911268?ref=bookmarks |
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Bill McCloskey
From:
Nanuet, NY
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 9:24 am
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Todd, both you and basil have offered to replace the bars or repress. And I thank you. But it doesn't bother me at all. Those are still my two favorite bars and no need to repress. I just wanted to make others aware not to be as big a clutz as me.
_________________
Check out the Steel Guitar Union Hall Facebook group for you daily dose of Steel https://www.facebook.com/groups/steelguitarunionhall |
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Bill Creller
From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 10:35 am
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| Some years ago, I gave a Hawaiian friend a bar with the poly covering. He dropped it on a hard surface, and that was the end of it !! |
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Bill McCloskey
From:
Nanuet, NY
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Bill Groner
From:
QUAKERTOWN, PA
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 11:14 am Re: Reminder: Don't drop those polymer bars
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| Bill McCloskey wrote: |
I love the bars that Todd and Basil make. The polymer (sp?) bars are great to play with and have a great sound. But as I recently discovered, if you drop them too many times. the metal core of the bar starts to come out the end, leaving no indentation and actually sticking out the end of the bar. I've had this happen with both basils and the clinesmith bar.
They still play great and I don't need the indentation, but it seems to be a thing with these bars: don't drop them. |
Mine are made the same way and I have had one come loose like yours. If you take the bullet end, put it on a thick magazine or several magazines and use a wooden dowel (close to the diameter of the metal plug) with a hammer you can tap the dowel against the insert and get it back in the bar. You have to cradle the bar and dowel with your one hand and hammer with the other. If someone is willing to give you a hand it's much easier. The soft magazine will cushion the blows and not damage the bullet nose. Do it gradually, not all in one shot. It will save you the shipping to and from if you decide to send it back.
_________________
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40 |
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Rick Barnhart
From:
Arizona, USA
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 2:59 pm
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Did you know that this forum has an option for private messaging? (smh)
_________________
Clinesmith consoles D-8/6 5 pedal, D-8 3 pedal & A25 Frypan, Pettingill Teardrop, & P8 Deluxe. |
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Bill McCloskey
From:
Nanuet, NY
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Marc Bell
From:
Surat Thani, TH
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 3:25 pm
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This happened to my beloved Basil bar. Basil wanted to replace it free of charge, but I wanted to keep it. End of the story - he advised to submerge the bar in very hot/near boiling water(without getting the problem end/inside the bar wet) for 30 seconds or so, and then just push the end back into place. Worked a charm, from looking like the bar in the opening post it is now 100% perfect.
To be honest, this happened twice, dropping it onto tiled floor and remedied the loose end plug twice with this hot water trick. |
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Bill McCloskey
From:
Nanuet, NY
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 3:29 pm
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Thanks for the tip Marc. Basil also promised to replace mine, but I also wanted to keep it. I'll give that a try.
_________________
Check out the Steel Guitar Union Hall Facebook group for you daily dose of Steel https://www.facebook.com/groups/steelguitarunionhall |
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Bill Groner
From:
QUAKERTOWN, PA
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 3:38 pm
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| Marc Bell wrote: |
This happened to my beloved Basil bar. Basil wanted to replace it free of charge, but I wanted to keep it. End of the story - he advised to submerge the bar in very hot/near boiling water(without getting the problem end/inside the bar wet) for 30 seconds or so, and then just push the end back into place. Worked a charm, from looking like the bar in the opening post it is now 100% perfect.
To be honest, this happened twice, dropping it onto tiled floor and remedied the loose end plug twice with this hot water trick. |
That is a great idea. Polymer will stretch to the size of the bar thus making it tight. .002 to .003 press fit is easily achievable. Putting it in hot water will expand the polymer and when it cools down it will be tight once again. I am a machinist and I do this with 2 pieces of steel. Heat one piece up, put the other in the freezer and you can actually put two pieces together with about .002 interference fit.
The only reason I didn't PM Bill was, I thought there might be others that were in the same predicament as Bill.
Todd said no charge, but Bill would be on the hook for $15 shipping to and from..........I sure didn't think I was stepping on any toes with my post. Kind of thought that is what forums were about......helping others?? :
_________________
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40 |
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Bill McCloskey
From:
Nanuet, NY
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 3:48 pm
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Bill no apology needed. I have no idea what Rick is upset by. Thanks for the info and of course that is what forums are for.
_________________
Check out the Steel Guitar Union Hall Facebook group for you daily dose of Steel https://www.facebook.com/groups/steelguitarunionhall |
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Jim Fogarty
From:
Phila, Pa, USA
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 4:26 pm
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| Rick Barnhart wrote: |
| Did you know that this forum has an option for private messaging? (smh) |
You could have reminded him of that fact by private message, you know. 
Good info.....thanks, Bill(s) |
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Rick Barnhart
From:
Arizona, USA
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 6:48 pm
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There’s an old saying in business:
“If you’re satisfied, tell others. If you’re dissatisfied, tell me.â€
_________________
Clinesmith consoles D-8/6 5 pedal, D-8 3 pedal & A25 Frypan, Pettingill Teardrop, & P8 Deluxe. |
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Bill McCloskey
From:
Nanuet, NY
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Posted 23 Oct 2018 7:02 pm
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? Rick, I think I was pretty clear I not only liked the bar, I wanted to keep both. this is about the bars themselves not the manufacturers. And because of this thread, we found out not only is this a common problem, there is an easy fix. Which will be there in the future when someone else has this problem. Good for everyone.
Your point is a bit ludicrous.
_________________
Check out the Steel Guitar Union Hall Facebook group for you daily dose of Steel https://www.facebook.com/groups/steelguitarunionhall |
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Chris Walke
From:
St Charles, IL
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Posted 24 Oct 2018 9:55 am
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| Rick Barnhart wrote: |
There’s an old saying in business:
“If you’re satisfied, tell others. If you’re dissatisfied, tell me.†|
Who's voicing any kind of dissatisfaction? |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 24 Oct 2018 6:59 pm
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Bill, I think the note about the "PMP" was because you say it's a "thing" with these bars - yet yours is the first problem I've ever heard of, and I sure didn't see a bunch of owner dogpile with "me too" posts.
YOU were the one who stated it was a "thing" - where's the backup data? Right now it sounds like a one-person complaint about a problem resulting from mishandling a product.
That, to me, is between you and the manufacturer. And free replacement seems awfully kind. I don't know of many companies that offer breakage replacement unless insurance is purchased.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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David Mason
From:
Cambridge, MD, USA
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Posted 26 Oct 2018 6:31 pm
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I didn't see any attempt to blame, and a solution arose that is useful for all?
As an extremely-tenuous aside, I was going to post that the "warm water trick" works great for cutting pickguards, too. Warm them up and Wiss sheetmetal shears will zip right through, no tearing or cracking, even the 5-ply must yield to the Mighty Wiss... careful on inside corners. Surely decent thin-bladed-but-quality garden shears would work too, maybe even better. But that might be offensive to... rosebushes? So I guess I can't post it.    |
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Will Slack
From:
Texas, USA
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Posted 28 Jan 2019 6:21 pm
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| I dropped my polymer bar today and the insert came out just a hair, losing the indentation. I remembered this thread and sure enough, the hot water trick worked just as Marc described. Thanks for posting that, Marc. |
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