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Author Topic:  Franklin pedal question...
Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 17 Oct 2018 5:51 am    
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After much redistance I'm now pondering having this pull on my Emmons LeGrande 111.

Here's what's worrying me. If I lower my 5th string a whole step (along with 6 and 10) will that negate my split-tune on the 5th string (A pedal and B to Bb)?

My 'B to Bb' is on my RKL, by the way.
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Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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Lynn Stafford


From:
Ridgefield, WA USA
Post  Posted 17 Oct 2018 7:08 am     Re: Franklin pedal question...
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Roger Rettig wrote:
After much redistance I'm now pondering having this pull on my Emmons LeGrande 111.

Here's what's worrying me. If I lower my 5th string a whole step (along with 6 and 10) will that negate my split-tune on the 5th string (A pedal and B to Bb)?

My 'B to Bb' is on my RKL, by the way.


Hi Roger,

The split screw (behind the changer) that's used for the 5th string drop to Bb will prevent the finger from lowering to A. You'll need to back the screw off completely and use a 3rd pull rod to allow you to have the drop to A and the split to C. This "3rd rod method" is done all the time with other guitar brands that have no split tuning screws.
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Best regards,
Lynn Stafford

STEEL GUITAR WEST
http://www.steelguitarwest.com
Steel Guitar Technician (Restoration, Set-up, Service and Repair work)

Previous Emmons Authorized Dealer & Service Technician (original factory is now closed)

ZumSteel Authorized Service Technician
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Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 17 Oct 2018 8:11 am    
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Thanks, Lynn.

That's depressing. Excuse my ignorance, but does that mean the third rod would pull the string back up to a C when I engage my B to Bb lever? Perhaps I don't have enough raise-holes to accomplish this. I must check when I get to work!
_________________
Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 17 Oct 2018 8:31 am    
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Roger---without a split tuning mechanism you can tune the B>C split without problems by adjusting lowering lever (your RKL) until the combination of A pedal and the lever give you your C. But then when you engage the lever by itself the A# will be very flat.
What the third rod does is make that lever raise the string just a bit at the same time that it is lowering it.
I downloaded this graphic from Mullen a long time ago.


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Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 17 Oct 2018 1:37 pm    
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Thanks, Jon. Being non-mechanically minded that takes some digesting - but I can see the logic.

Many thanks to you and to Lynn for responding. I'm having my guitar worked on soon so this will be very useful.
_________________
Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 17 Oct 2018 2:06 pm    
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Roger Rettig wrote:
..... Being non-mechanically minded that takes some digesting .....


I get it, Roger. I'd give it another shot with a better explanation but...it's not stuff you need to understand unless you really really want to, since you're going to bring it to a competent tech.

This is possibly the one aspect of steel guitar physics that I've got the slimmest grasp of. I can't say I've got a confident handle on the why's of it myself, even though I can set a split up to work well.
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Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 17 Oct 2018 2:18 pm    
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I know it's going to a tech but I wanted to know what's possible before I commit. Your diagram from Mullen tells us how many holes are needed.

I did a show this afternoon and forgot to check my guitar! But it has three raise/two lower so my fifth string should have a spare space for a rod - there are only two 'raises' on that string now (C and A pedal).

I use B to Bb a lot so I don't want to lose the option.

Thanks again.
_________________
Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 17 Oct 2018 2:31 pm    
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And in fact your comment reminds me that it is NOT an option for me with a Uni setup occupying three raises. If I were still playing my Carter I'd buy a 4-raise finger for the 5th string (which they did make). Just by luck, my Carter's B>A# was somewhat close to being in tune without any split hardware. But I am now and in the future committed to guitars with split tuning screws.
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