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Topic: Rack and Barrel setup advice, please |
Gary Patterson
From:
Gallatin, TN
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Posted 14 Aug 2018 7:45 am |
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I've tried to search this answer up in previous posts, but I can't find a thread that addresses this "dilemma".
It's clear that the barrel faces should clear the racks when the pedals are "at rest", enough so that the spring tang doesn't catch the rack. Does anyone know of a standard for how much clearance is needed?
My dilemma is this: Once you tighten down the barrels on the rods, the tune-a-ble portion of the barrel will move toward the rack when tuning higher, and there goes your gap. So: Where would you experts recommend starting, when reassembling an old guitar?
A somewhat related topic is that of the pedal stops. The pedal needs to move enough to accomplish the pull, no matter what happens to the barrel. Is there a standard rationale for setting the pedal travel, is it just trial and error?
Thanks! |
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Andrew Roblin
From:
Various places
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Posted 14 Aug 2018 8:32 am
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Great questions, Gary.
Ricky Davis--guru-in-chief for setting up Sho-Buds with barrels--has talked about this. Briefly:
1. Tighten the barrel all the way. Then loosen it four full rotations, putting the barrel halfway between fully tight and fully loose.
2. Put all the barrels against the racks. Tighten the set screw that holds the barrel on the rod.
3. Set the stop to raise or lower the string to or a bit beyond the desired pitch.
4. Fine tune the barrels using the tuners on the rods.
Check out Ricky's comments in this thread:
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=163782&highlight=quite+sure+happened+explanation
For a graduate degree in Sho-Bud barrels, etc., search the Forum on author "Ricky Davis," category "Sho-Bud," Forum Section "Pedal Steel." |
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Gary Patterson
From:
Gallatin, TN
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Posted 14 Aug 2018 11:01 am
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Andrew, thanks for the reply. I have read many of Ricky's posts, but could not find anything to address the topic of the "closing gap". After staring at the system a little longer, I figured a possible solution similar to what you suggest:
1. Adjust all barrels (4 or 5 turns back from "closed")
2. Position all barrels to clear the racks (just barely)
3. Tune strings and let them stabilze.
4. Set each pedal stop to raise any pull to pitch or slightly sharp.
5. If any pull is flat, increase pedal travel. (Gap remains open)
6. If pulls are extremely sharp, decrease pedal travel.
7. If pull is slightly sharp, adjust barrel length by tuning at the changer.(Gap increases slightly)
After this initial setup, I'm hoping that minor tuning adjustments can all be made at the changer without closing the gaps too far. |
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Gary Patterson
From:
Gallatin, TN
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Posted 3 Sep 2018 7:05 am
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OK, I'm almost finished with my rebuild of this Crossover. I have one more mystery I hope you can help me solve.
The springs that return the "lower" pulls to pitch are equipped with screws about 1-1/2" long, which would apparently be for adjusting the tension. I've noticed that at least on other design of ShoBud changer has fixed-tension springs.
My question is: How do I correctly determine the adjustment? Is there some rationale to it, or just a matter of personal preference?
The springs in question are those at the farthest left in the photo. (Not my actual guitar)
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 3 Sep 2018 8:43 am
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I'd give it two more turns than is required to RELIABLY return it to the highest pitch on the string.
More tension than is necessary will just give more resistance to the lowers, making them stiffer.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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