1975 Sho-Bud Maverick stringing and tuning in Los Angeles?

Noah Levy · From: California, USA

Hey all,
I live in Los Angeles and have been playing the pedal steel for a pretty short amount of time. Since it is something I plan to improve on I decided not to immediately invest in a fancy Zum or Emmons but rather a fairly cheap used 75' Sho-Bud maverick. About a week ago I broke my 3rd string (something I hear is quite common) and since the strings that were on the steel were probably from 75' and toneless I decided to take them all off. The problem now is I can't figure out how to restring the thing properly! Can anyone refer me to some sort of detailed video on tuning the maverick (if that exists)? If not, would anyone be kind enough to refer me to a professional I can see in Southern California to help me out?

Thanks everyone!

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Does the finger have pins or slots?
Here's what I do (I have both on my guitars):
Trim the string to about three inches longer than the length from pin/slot to tuner

Set hole in tuner to run from 7 to 1 o'clock (from the seated player's point of view)

Put string in tuner in the hole at 7, push through til it has about a quarter inch out the other side, and the long end goes over the top, not under.

With your finger, mash that sucker til it's noticeably crimped.

Holding the string snug, not taut, with your right hand, run a couple of turns onto the tuner.

Now using your left hand to keep the slack to a minimum, use your left hand to seat the ball in the slot, or on the pin. If pins, it is VITAL that the ball is against the finger; if it's allowed to climb 'up' the pin, you stand a very good chance of snapping the pin.

For the next step, many people use foam wedges, bits of sponge or similar. I have figured out how to use my right hand to do two jobs at one time. I'll describe my process.

Put the meat of your little finger to secure the ball in the slot/on the pin, and stretch your thumb towards the keyhead and upwards. The string will go across the meat of your thumbtip, which will take up the slack.

Start winding the string.

Once the string has tightened to the point where the string is almost ready to make a note (snug not tight), remove your thumb, and make sure the ball is still properly seated.

Bring the string to pitch, tug it gently upwards (about as much force as would lift a Tele but not a Les Paul). Retune the string. Repeat three times.

I think there are youtube videos on replacing pedal steel strings.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

James Collett · From: San Dimas, CA

As far as restringing goes, I pretty much do it the same way as Lane. However, you'll probably need to retune your pedals when you put new strings on (or at least I often seem to). Mavericks have what's called a pull-release changer, and only work one way without some additional components - that is, each string can be raised or lowered, but not both. Here's what I do after I put a new set of strings on my first edition Maverick (which is a great little guitar for multi-instrumental gigs where I'm only playing steel on a couple of songs):

1. Follow Lane's method for restringing.

2. Back out/tighten all the tuning screws a reasonable distance, so there's plenty of room to loosen or tighten as necessary. This is going to throw your tuning out of whack (because it changes the resting position of each changer finger), but it saves you from some potential issues a few steps later. I usually just make all the tuning screws roughly even to start.

3. Retune all your strings at the key head.

3. Go through each pedal, and tune each string that raises at the corresponding tuning key. For example, tune the C# notes on strings 5 and 10 at the key head while pressing the A pedal. Follow this procedure for the B and C pedals. At this point, your open tuning may be off, but all your pedals should be in tune.

4. For every raise you tuned at the key head, tune the open note at the tuning screws on the right side of the guitar. I'm doing so, you are adjusting the resting position of the changer to reach the proper pitch.

5. Your knee lever (if you have one) will likely lower string 2 from D#->D and string 8 from E->D#. Check the open tuning at the key head, and tune the pitch change at the tuning screw.

If you've tuned your pedal changes before, steps 3-5 will be familiar to you; the biggest difference here is just zeroing things out in case the travel distance to bring the strings up to pitch changes. If you use the same brand of strings every time, this won't be a big deal, but every once in a while I notice sight variations in string behavior, and it's nice to start with a fresh setup when you're setting things up or troubleshooting a tuning issue. At the same time, I've found my Maverick to be the most stable steel guitar I've owned with regards to tuning issues, so...
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James Collett

Noah Levy · From: California, USA

It is probably important to mention that I have already wasted 2 sets of strings trying to tune and restring my Maverick. The internals are all rusted out and I think I need to do a full overhaul on the old girl. Does anyone know any pros in La who can tackle a job like this (restringing, tuning, repairs, upgrade)?

mtulbert · From: Plano, Texas 75023

Take a drive down to Oceanside and visit Jim Palenscar's shop. Steel Guitars of North County. He is the best; nice guy and will get your guitar into shape for you to enjoy.

Hope this helps.

regards,
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Mark T

Rittenberry Laquer D10, Rittenberry Prestige SD10, Revelation Preamp,Revelation Octal Preamp,Lexicon PCM 92 Reverb, Furlong Cabinet

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Ditto. Drive a couple hours south, and Jim will get you sorted.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

ajm · From: Los Angeles

Stop.

As James Collett eluded to, if you have the old strings, get a micrometer and try as best as you can to measure their thickness/gauge.
Always replace broken strings with those of the same gauge. This will save you (probably) from having to readjust the mechanics of the guitar.
If that is not possible, get a standard PSG set from somewhere, and make a note of the gauges for the next time this happens.

Then, the other comments as to the physical motions of restringing come into play.

If you have already tried to adjust the guitar, you may need to make a trip.

I agree with the Jim Palenscar suggestion. I'd call and make an appointment (if he does them) so that you can hopefully get it taken care of in one day, eliminating two trips.

However, you might want to try making a trip to or calling McCabes Music in Santa Monica.
They might have someone or know someone a little closer who can help.

Noah Levy · From: California, USA

Yeah, I already took the old strings off and I hadn't made note of the gauges so I'll probably head over to Jim. Thanks everyone, much appreciated!

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