Easiest method of changing strings ?

Larry Lenhart · From: Ponca City, Oklahoma

I have ALWAYS been a clutz when it comes to changing strings...some steels seem to be easier than others..(the Williams design appears to me to be the easiest, but I have never owned one). I have read thru some suggestions here but was wondering what has worked for you. My steel does not have the zert (or whatever you call it) but rather has the claw style where you insert the string...my problem has always been keeping it there while I wind from the tuner end...I have tried sticking a soft foam wedge shaped paint brush down there that sometimes helps. Sorry for such an old, trivial to many, subject, but I would appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks in advance.
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Zum Encore, Remington D8 non pedal, Hallmark Mosrite clone, Gretsch 6120 DSW, Gretsch G5210T-P90 Electromatic Jet Two 90,1976 Ibanez L5, Eastman archtop, Taylor Dreadnaught, Telonics pedal, Squire Tele, Squire Strat, Fender Tonemaster, Gold Tone 5 string banjo, Little Wonder tenor banjo, 3 Roland cubes 30s and 80, Carvin combo bass amp

Bob Cox · From: Buckeye State

Try a slice of the pool noodles under string near picup . It will let the string wind down and give as it does.Remove before its to tight

Dave Campbell · From: Nova Scotia, Canada

no matter what type, claw or pin, they both have given me a pain in the neck when changing strings. on my bud, i used to use a rolled up cue card, but it doesn't work on my emmons. the key, for me anyhow, is to get the length right at the tuning peg and make a bend in the string. then i put it on the peg at the changer and keep tension on the string as i wind the peg with string winder. having the tension on the string to keep it on the pin seems to be the trick.

Brooks Montgomery · From: Idaho, USA

This doesn't answer your 'claw' issue, but it sure helped me, especially the string measurement tip
https://youtu.be/qtlvEWhHvr0
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A banjo, like a pet monkey, seems like a good idea at first.

Fred Justice · From: Mesa, Arizona

Larry, when you get to Arizona this fall, come on by the shop and I'll show you how to change a set of ten strings in less than 10 minutes. Old ones off, new ones on. Very Happy

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Al Evans · From: Austin, Texas, USA

I use a "Planet Waves Drill Bit Peg Winder" that fits my power screwdriver. Less than ten bucks, and saves lots of hand-cranking.

--Al Evans
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2018 MSA Legend, 2018 ZumSteel Encore, 2015 Mullen G2, G&L S-500, G&L ASAT, G&L LB-100, Godin A4 Fretless, Kinscherff High Noon

Dan Beller-McKenna · From: Durham, New Hampshire, USA

My only problems are with the claw on my Super Pro C6th 10th (and sometimes 9th) string; the ball of the string really doesn't want to get in there (but there's even a fix for that). At the risk of extreme overkill, and for what it's worth, here's how I approach it. (For all I know I copped this from some sticky or manufacturer's site. I know at least one bit is from the old Carter site.)

First of all take all the string off at once. The pedal steel does not have the tension issues of acoustic guitars, etc. (But if you have a Fessenden, don't turn the guitar over and mess around, as the string tension keeps the pull rods in the bell cranks. Don;t ask how I know not to do this...) On most steels I've owned, it's best to start with the first string, since there is an acute angle there and it's hard to get at if you have a fully tightened 2nd and 3rd strings already in place.

1) Hold the ball of the string roughly where it is going to end up on the finger, then measure out to two tuning-machines past the one you're aiming for (so, for the first string, out to the third string's tuner).

2) Put the tuner end of the string in first. I like to have the string going straight down through the hole in the shaft, touch the deck, and then back it off very slightly. This way you have maximum string length sticking out the other end without scraping the deck of the key-head area as you tune up the string.

3) Give the string about one and a half turns around the shaft, so that a slight amount of tension from your right hand will keep the string on there.

4) Now slide the ball end in the claw.

Here's the critical part

5) Let the string run over your thumb and under your index finger of your right hand and slightly pull the string up near near the bridge, keeping tension on both ends of the string; up with the thumb (for the keyhead end) and downward with your index finger for the changer end. Here's my drawing, for better or worse.

6) keep that tension on with your right hand while tightening the string with your left hand. (I've recently started using a small drill with a tuning machine bit which has improved my quality of life by roughly 6000%.)

7) when the string gets tight enough to start pulling your right hand downward, gradually slide your thumb out and maintain some downward pressure with your index finger until the string is securely on the key head.

Voila!

Larry Dering · From: Missouri, USA

Changing strings to me is like mowing the lawn. I do it because I have to. Now people often tell me they like mowing. I've never had anyone say that about changing strings.

Dan Beller-McKenna · From: Durham, New Hampshire, USA

I actually like changing strings on my pedal steels! (Super Pro C6 10+9 excepted.) Dobro and six string guitar--not so much.

Roger Rettig · From: Naples, FL

I hate stopping for gas and changing strings. Like Larry, I do it because it has to be done.

I dread changing strings on my Emmons but find the 'claw'/swallow-tail idea on my Zum Encore much more 'friendly'.
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Roger Rettig - Emmons D10s, Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and old Martins.
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Steve Spitz · From: New Orleans, LA, USA

Learn from my mistake.

If you use the electric winder (I do) , if youâ€™re not aware, you can scratch the finish on the chrome around the key heads, making little swirl marks from the drill bit winder.

Ease up on the winder so it doesnâ€™t contact the headstock, or a piece of painters tape to protect the surface, and youâ€™re off to the races. Iâ€™d be surprised if any builders are hand cranking.

My small pistol drill lights up when you pull the trigger, it can really help on a dark bandstand.

Larry Lenhart · From: Ponca City, Oklahoma

Thanks guys...I really appreciate that input...I will work on Dan's idea..thanks so much for putting in the time and effort to describe that...and I will definately come by and see you Fred when I get back to Mesa in the fall...Thanks again...I know it is old hat to many of you, and should be to me, but like my dad used to say "when the ash tray gets full, its time to buy another car"...when the strings break I just buy another steel...haha..not quite that often !!

thanks again to all !
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Zum Encore, Remington D8 non pedal, Hallmark Mosrite clone, Gretsch 6120 DSW, Gretsch G5210T-P90 Electromatic Jet Two 90,1976 Ibanez L5, Eastman archtop, Taylor Dreadnaught, Telonics pedal, Squire Tele, Squire Strat, Fender Tonemaster, Gold Tone 5 string banjo, Little Wonder tenor banjo, 3 Roland cubes 30s and 80, Carvin combo bass amp

Bruce Bjork · From: Southern Coast of Maine

This works well for me, small wooden wedge.
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Banjo, Dobro, Guild D-40, Telecaster, Justice Pro Lite 3x5, BOSS Katana 100, Peavey Nashville 112 in a Tommy Huff cabinet, Spark, FreeLoader, Baby Bloomer, Peterson StroboPlus HD, Stage One VP.
"Use the talents you possess; the woods would be very silent indeed if no birds sang but the best"

Larry Lenhart · From: Ponca City, Oklahoma

Bruce
very cool...thanks !
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Zum Encore, Remington D8 non pedal, Hallmark Mosrite clone, Gretsch 6120 DSW, Gretsch G5210T-P90 Electromatic Jet Two 90,1976 Ibanez L5, Eastman archtop, Taylor Dreadnaught, Telonics pedal, Squire Tele, Squire Strat, Fender Tonemaster, Gold Tone 5 string banjo, Little Wonder tenor banjo, 3 Roland cubes 30s and 80, Carvin combo bass amp

Don Poland · From: Hanover, PA.

Rubber wedges for tuning piano's work pretty well. I believe I got this idea from one of the fellas here on the forum.

Daniel McKee · From: Corinth Mississippi

generally I find that winding the string around the tuning post and after a couple of winds attaching it to the finger is best. I used to hook it in the changer first and then try to wind. As already stated the Williams changer would allow for this but most will result in the string coming out before you get much tension on it. This can be extremely frustrating. I'm not a fan of pins but they work the same way, wind the string a few times and then hook on to the pin and hold it on until the string is up to a fairly high tension. Did I mention I'm not fond of changers with pins LOL. Changing strings can be quite a task at first (maybe even for a while) but there is a trick to everything. There are some good youtube videos on it now.

Jordan Beyer · From: Ohio, USA

Why do a lot of you guys cut the strings? I just feel that's a unessisary step. I usually unwind the tunner and pull it off. What's the point to cut it?

Brint Hannay · From: Maryland, USA

I find it more hassle to put the string through the tuner first. Hooking it into the changer first you can simply approach the slot or pin from directly above, rather than having to bend the string down to it. Then I just maintain tension with my right hand to keep it seated while with my left hand I measure the length, cut to length (2 tuners for wound, 3 tuners for plain), put the string through the tuner, and wind it till it's tight enough for me to let go with my right hand.

On my one guitar with pegs, I use a Phillips head screwdriver to hold the ball end in place.

Jordan Beyer · From: Ohio, USA

Fred Treece · From: California, USA

Dave Magram · From: San Jose, California, USA

Greg Lambert · From: Illinois, USA

Pencil Eraser;

Rich Upright · From: Florida, USA

To me, the worst part about changing strings is taking the old ones off. No matter how careful I am, I always get stabbed when the string finally clears the post & snaps back into my finger. Get a chance to excersise my NYC cuss vocabulary.
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A couple D-10s,some vintage guitars & amps, & lotsa junk in the gig bag.

Pat Moore · From: Virginia USA

Pencil eraser like the above photo from Greg Lambert works for me! Wedge it in & keep on gettin up!

Stu Schulman · From: Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)

Greg Lambert,Yes!!!
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Steeltronics Z-pickup,Desert Rose S-10 4+5,Desert Rose Keyless S-10 3+5... Mullen G2 S-10 3+5,Telonics 206 pickups,Telonics volume pedal.,Blanton SD -10,Emmons GS_10...Zirctone bar,Bill Groner Bar...any amp that isn't broken.Steel Seat.Com seats...Licking paint chips off of Chinese Toys since 1952.

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