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Topic: Pots for Fender Volume Tone Pedal |
Ollin Landers
From:
Willow Springs, NC
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Posted 16 Jul 2018 6:10 am |
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I purchased a Fender Volume Tone Pedal at a very reasonable price but the Pots are going. Anyone know what Pots would be needed for Volume and Tone. I plan to replace the Volume Pot first and I'm assuming a Goodrich Pot should work there?
_________________
Zum SD-12 Black, Zum SD-12 Burly Elm Several B-Bender Tele's and a lot of other gear I can't play.
I spent half my money on gambling, alcohol and wild women. The other half I wasted. W.C. Fields |
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Tim Whitlock
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2018 6:39 am
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I put the Bradshaw 470k pot in my Fender V/T pedal with good results. I believe it's the same thing as the Goodrich. If you buy it, have Tom solder the leads onto the lugs for you. It was a very frustrating exercise for me!
https://www.songwriter.com/bradshaw/potentiometers.php |
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Ollin Landers
From:
Willow Springs, NC
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Posted 16 Jul 2018 3:21 pm
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Thanks Tim. I'm ordering two of them today. I can solder pretty well but anytime I can get it done for me I will.
_________________
Zum SD-12 Black, Zum SD-12 Burly Elm Several B-Bender Tele's and a lot of other gear I can't play.
I spent half my money on gambling, alcohol and wild women. The other half I wasted. W.C. Fields |
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Dave Meis
From:
Olympic Peninsula, Washington, USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2018 12:41 pm
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[quote="Tim Whitlock"]I put the Bradshaw 470k pot in my Fender V/T pedal with good results. I believe it's the same thing as the Goodrich. If you buy it, have Tom solder the leads onto the lugs for you. It was a very frustrating exercise for me!
Same pot for both Vol. and Tone? |
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Tom Bradshaw
From:
Walnut Creek, California, USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2018 8:26 pm Try a Dunlop?
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Ollin: If you would like to try out one of my pots, I'll send you one. I experimented a bit with my pots (Dunlop 470K's, which are exactly like what Goodrich now provides), but felt they just didn't provide the full range of bass to treble (when my standard is what Jerry Byrd got out of his Allen/Bradley pots away back when). However, mine might satisfy you. Also, I'd like to include another Dunlop pot for you to try out as the tone control pot. I'll send it too
I'd appreciate your input here on the Forum as to how the pots work, either providing you with the bass-to-treble extremes or don't. If you are happy with either one, you can buy whatever you keep. If neither satisfy you, you can just return them and you can tell Forum members what you learned. I'm confident that my 470K pots will function quite well (about 5,000 purchasers have confirmed that)! I'm just not sure if you will be happy with the tone extremes. Let me know. Tom...tommybradshaw@gmail.com |
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Tom Bradshaw
From:
Walnut Creek, California, USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2018 8:26 pm Try a Dunlop?
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| Ooops. Double posting and deleted. |
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Ollin Landers
From:
Willow Springs, NC
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Posted 17 Jul 2018 8:37 pm
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Tom,
Thank you I have sent a PM.
_________________
Zum SD-12 Black, Zum SD-12 Burly Elm Several B-Bender Tele's and a lot of other gear I can't play.
I spent half my money on gambling, alcohol and wild women. The other half I wasted. W.C. Fields |
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Tim Whitlock
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 18 Jul 2018 8:59 am
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[quote="Dave Meis"]
| Tim Whitlock wrote: |
I put the Bradshaw 470k pot in my Fender V/T pedal with good results. I believe it's the same thing as the Goodrich. If you buy it, have Tom solder the leads onto the lugs for you. It was a very frustrating exercise for me!
Same pot for both Vol. and Tone? |
I only replaced the volume pot. The 250k tone pot is still clean. I hope it stays that way because the mechanism looks like a bear to unhook and re-hook. |
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Ollin Landers
From:
Willow Springs, NC
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Posted 18 Jul 2018 9:54 am
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Same here. I'm only replacing the volume pot. I may try the tone pot from Tom.
_________________
Zum SD-12 Black, Zum SD-12 Burly Elm Several B-Bender Tele's and a lot of other gear I can't play.
I spent half my money on gambling, alcohol and wild women. The other half I wasted. W.C. Fields |
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Dave Meis
From:
Olympic Peninsula, Washington, USA
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Posted 18 Jul 2018 11:44 am
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It does look like a bowl of spaghetti in there...and that's why I was wanting to be sure I put in the proper one the FIRST time!  . Would the 470k be a good replacement for the 250k? |
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Ollin Landers
From:
Willow Springs, NC
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Posted 18 Jul 2018 11:49 am
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Tom and I are emailing about this now. He is not recommending the 470 pot for tone. As soon as I get the pots I'm going to experiment, see what I think works and then I can reply on this thread.
He is sending me both a 470 and a 250. I'll replace the 470 first to get my VP working again. Then when I have a chance I'll experiment with both. I'm retired so I usually have time.
I am anxious to see the original pot type and value of both. Mine is a reissue pedal so no idea whats in there. I'm pretty sure it's stock.
_________________
Zum SD-12 Black, Zum SD-12 Burly Elm Several B-Bender Tele's and a lot of other gear I can't play.
I spent half my money on gambling, alcohol and wild women. The other half I wasted. W.C. Fields |
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Tom Bradshaw
From:
Walnut Creek, California, USA
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Posted 18 Jul 2018 3:31 pm Soldering one of my Dunlop pots.
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I find it interesting that folks have problems soldering the wires to the posts on the bottoms of the pots I provide. It isn't a problem for me at all.
Trim back the insulation on the wires by about 3/8", then touch some solder to the exposed wires (this is called "tinning." For most pedals, rotate the pot's shaft to a full off position (counter-clockwise) and keep the flat edge of the pot facing you. Why? Because because that's how manufacturers designed their pedals to accept pots.
Take a pair of needle-nosed pliers and bend a hook in the exposed wires you've just tinned. Place the appropriate wires around the appropriate soldering posts and gently crimp them to the posts. Then touch your hot soldering gun (with the hot tip) along with a small amount of acid-core solder to both. Job done!
Do keep in mind that you need to direct the wires properly across the bottom of the pot when soldering. The orientation of the pot with its wires, is important so you don't end up having to twist and tangle the wires because you didn't have them soldered in the right direction. Some pedals have short wires, so the orientation (direction) of those wires is important.
Now I know some will immediately say, "Tom, that really sounds complicated." Chill out; if you think it through, it all makes sense. But then, I was born with 3 hands and 3 eyes! |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 19 Jul 2018 8:17 am
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Tom,
I have a question for you.
I was always told that on anything electrical you should use rosin core solder.
What say you?
Thanks, 
Erv |
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Jack Hanson
From:
San Luis Valley, USA
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Posted 19 Jul 2018 8:55 am Re: Soldering one of my Dunlop pots.
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| Tom Bradshaw wrote: |
| I find it interesting that folks have problems soldering the wires to the posts on the bottoms of the pots I provide. It isn't a problem for me at all. |
Agreed. My soldering chops are likely on the lower end of the spectrum. I've installed both Tom's Dunlop pots and the similar Goodrich pots into both Sho-Bud and Emmons volume pedals without a hassle. Both work well; I can't hear any difference. |
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Tim Whitlock
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 19 Jul 2018 11:24 am
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| Ollin Landers wrote: |
| He is sending me both a 470 and a 250. I'll replace the 470 first to get my VP working again. Then when I have a chance I'll experiment with both. I'm retired so I usually have time. |
I did not know Tom offers a 250k pot. All I see is the 470k. Is there a link to the 250k pot? |
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Bill A. Moore
From:
Silver City, New Mexico, USA
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Posted 19 Jul 2018 11:55 am
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| I'm sure Tom said "Acid Core Solder" as a joke! |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 19 Jul 2018 12:14 pm
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Bill,
I'm not so sure.
Erv |
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Tom Bradshaw
From:
Walnut Creek, California, USA
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Posted 19 Jul 2018 12:24 pm Rosin vs. Acid solder
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| Hey Bill. I'm not an expert on solder. I've just replaced a lot of pots in various pedals. For some reason, pedal builders have occasionally used insulated steel wire instead of copper or brass wire. Rosin solder just doesn't work well with steel wire. However, acid-core wire seems to work OK with both. But you are right, it is best to use rosin core solder with brass & copper wire. Thanks for the heads-up. |
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Ollin Landers
From:
Willow Springs, NC
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Posted 19 Jul 2018 2:03 pm
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| Quote: |
| I did not know Tom offers a 250k pot. |
Tom is sending me one to experiment with. I'll let you know how it works.
_________________
Zum SD-12 Black, Zum SD-12 Burly Elm Several B-Bender Tele's and a lot of other gear I can't play.
I spent half my money on gambling, alcohol and wild women. The other half I wasted. W.C. Fields |
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Tom Bradshaw
From:
Walnut Creek, California, USA
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Posted 19 Jul 2018 2:14 pm 250k pots
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Yes I do have 250k pots. I've not listed them for sale since the 470k pots have worked so well, and like the old adage, "If it ain't broke, why fix it." Also, the 470k pots are lasting forever. That's bad for me, but great for my customers. Why do I say that? Because few of the 470k pots wear out, so I have few repeat customers...drat it!
Some feel that 250k pots change the tone. I can't hear it, but maybe they are correct. I do know that there is less telephonic noise from cords that might be stepped on if a 250k pot is in the sound chain.
I'm looking forward to Ollin's and Tim's experiment to see what they come up with. |
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Bill A. Moore
From:
Silver City, New Mexico, USA
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Posted 20 Jul 2018 12:02 pm
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| I have soldered wires to the pot case, (iron), but always use rosen core. Acid core does work well for radiator tanks, and copper pipe used in plumbing! |
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Steven Welborn
From:
Ojai,CA USA
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Posted 21 Mar 2019 5:24 pm
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Last edited by Steven Welborn on 21 Mar 2019 6:01 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Greg Lambert
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 21 Mar 2019 5:46 pm
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| Tom , will the 470 fit in an old Ernie Ball with jacks on the right? the original pot has the long shaft. |
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Stephen Cowell
From:
Round Rock, Texas, USA
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Posted 21 Mar 2019 8:24 pm
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I'd have to say, never use steel wire in anything electrical or electronic. And never use plumber's solder or anything listed as acid-core.
A good way to learn to solder is to obtain (along with the iron, solder, wire etc) some flux. There are several kinds of flux available, get the same flux that's inside your solder. I always try to put extra flux on my connection before I solder it, and it makes it flow so much better... when you rely on only what's inside the solder you often end up wanting more.
Another helpful hint is to 'tin' both pieces before you try to join them. Put solder onto both before you try to join them, then they'll just melt together easily.
Some folks tell you to not heat the solder, heat the joint first... I'm here to tell you that you won't heat the joint without a wet connection between the joint and the iron. When soldering (or desoldering too) I put solder on the iron tip first, apply the tip to the work, then feed solder into the wet connection. If there's flux on the connection everything should flow smoothly. You can use a wet sponge (real, not synthetic) to clean the tip once it's hot... keep the tip tinned with solder to keep it from oxidizing.
All electric musicians should learn to use a soldering iron and a volt-ohm-meter, this will save you lots of money and could turn into a day job (like it did for me!).
_________________
New FB Page: Lap Steel Licks And Stuff: https://www.facebook.com/groups/195394851800329 |
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Steven Welborn
From:
Ojai,CA USA
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Posted 22 Mar 2019 10:28 am
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Re the Dunlop hot potz with the lugs on the back: I'm assuming the two lugs close together are pre and post resistor strip, and the lug further away but centered between the other two is the wiper... correct?
I just put one of these pots in to replace the volume pot and connected it backwards (volume max when heel down/toe up). I sure want to get it right this time around. |
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