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Topic: Refurbishing a Sho-Bud Super Pro from 1978 |
Jörg Berger
From:
Germany
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Posted 4 May 2018 3:44 am |
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After I brought my Sierra Olympic S12 back into playing condition (with alot of help from this forum). I took the chance to get a Sho-Bud Super Pro.
Due to the fact that it was stored away in a barn or none heated room outside some of the parts are rusted.
Especially the roller nuts needs replacement.
How are they attached? Are they just held in place by the
string preasure? What is a good source to get replacement?
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John Swain
From:
Winchester, Va
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Posted 4 May 2018 4:51 am
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| ShoBud roller nuts were brass, so just lift them out on their axle and clean them with alcohol and a toothbrush. |
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Alan Bidmade
From:
Newcastle upon Tyne UK
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Posted 4 May 2018 5:14 am
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I don't think Sho-Bud roller nuts were gauged, but it might be worth removing them in numbered order. Mark a piece of paper with 10 numbered circles and put the corresponding nut on the matching number. Clean away as John suggests, but replace each cleaned one back in order. Clean the axle, too, before re-assembling in the same order.
And don't lose any!!
Good luck.
_________________
Ben-Rom #017 'Lorelei', Guild D25, Epiphone 'Joe Pass', Roland 40XL, Hilton VP
First name Alan, but known as Nick |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 4 May 2018 5:59 am
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| The axle will lift out of the forks with some gentle prying. But I'd consider soaking with some releasing product--someone else needs to name what because I'm not sure. If you plan to save the axle you don't want to bend it in the process of freeing it up (I am specifically responding to the corrosion in your picture---otherwise it would come out without too much persuasion.) |
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Jörg Berger
From:
Germany
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Posted 4 May 2018 12:29 pm
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| John Swain wrote: |
| ShoBud roller nuts were brass, so just lift them out on their axle and clean them with alcohol and a toothbrush. |
Thanks guys, good advise to keep them in order.
I'm thinking of removing the whole tuner unit for a good clean. Which are the screws to remove them?
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Kevin Fix
From:
Michigan, USA
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Posted 4 May 2018 3:34 pm
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| Your Bud when you get it finished is going to have a great tone quality with the wooden necks. That Bud will be a keeper. Most of the Super Pros I seen have aluminum necks. |
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 5 May 2018 4:21 pm [b] TRIVIA QUESTION AT BOTTOM OF MY POST[/b] Who is It????
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Well the scews to remove the Keyheads are the two close together on bottom of endplate(that screw next to number 9 and screw next to it...they look green.)
But....there is a aluminum cast piece that is part of the keyhead that runs into a cutout on the neck on top that you have to unscrew....so you have to remove the fretboard...not easy to do). You can see what I'm talking about on this pic I have of the top of the keyhead; screws...
Here's a quick story that nobody knows of WHY there is a extended cast piece on those later model keyheads. When the superpro came out; Sho~bud was immediately having a pretty bad Tuning drop and hysterics problem...and massive complaints....and at that time was when the person that most all Sho~bud mechanics looked up to, just left recently; so they called him and said they were having problems, if he had any ideas how to fix it....he said yes; I knew you would have a problem with the new design and I can fix it for you....so he brought in this new casted keyhead with that extended part that screws to the wood down the neck line....and wala....PERFECTION and no more tuning instability.....Wanna know who that person was?? Ok I'll let ya'll guess for a while....he was a man I got to finally talk to on the phone years ago and it was a DREAM COME TRUE for me to speak to this man.
??????ok any guesses.....who invented this???
Ricky [/b]
_________________
Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Johnie King
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 5 May 2018 5:36 pm
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Paul Franklin senior pedal steel genius
Last edited by Johnie King on 5 May 2018 5:42 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Gary Watkins
From:
Bristol, VA
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Posted 5 May 2018 5:39 pm
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Mr. D. Marrs?
_________________
If you succeed in cheating someone, don't think that the person is a fool. It's just that the person trusted you far more than you deserved. |
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 5 May 2018 6:41 pm
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OH my Gosh; Johnie King got it right first guess.
I will never forget the hour long conversation I had with that Man on the phone> Dream Come True.
Ricky
_________________
Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Jörg Berger
From:
Germany
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Posted 5 May 2018 8:55 pm
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| Ricky Davis wrote: |
Well the scews to remove the Keyheads are the two close together on bottom of endplate(that screw next to number 9 and screw next to it...they look green.)
But....there is a aluminum cast piece that is part of the keyhead that runs into a cutout on the neck on top that you have to unscrew....so you have to remove the fretboard...not easy to do). You can see what I'm talking about on this pic I have of the top of the keyhead; screws...
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Ricky [/b] |
Thanks Ricky,
I will leave the tuners on 
Great story about Paul Franklin sr. |
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Jörg Berger
From:
Germany
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Posted 11 May 2018 1:08 am
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Finally I got the roller nuts off.
After I made all the rollers turning (WD40) I used a a nail
of which I cut off the tip and grinded the edges off to
hammer out the axle.
For the last four rollers the friction was low enough to
lift off the reamining rollers with the axle.
(The two necks are two close to each other so the axle cannot be hammered out the whole length).
Last edited by Jörg Berger on 11 May 2018 9:58 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Jörg Berger
From:
Germany
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Posted 11 May 2018 9:53 am
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Next question:
what is the wrench size of the nut that holds the Sperzel tuners? Very metric over here |
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